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Discussion Starter #1
Getting back in and plan on getting the T4. I plan to get the Futaba 2PL Sport FHSS and a better stering servo right away. There seems to be a lot of free play in the sterring servo that come on the rtr kits. What other suggestions do you have for set up and race prep? I'll be racing dirt and asphalt.
 

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The free play is probably not in the servo, but in all the ball cups. You can only get it so tight. About all I could say is get an rpm camber gauge, a handful of pinions say 17-20, and the right tires for where you plan to run. A tuning manual is nice to read up on, but just practicing driving on a track with lanes is the first step to having a good time at the track. Well the second step, the first step is having a truck that is put together well enough that it will finish every race you enter. So check the screws, nuts, and bolts for tightness and loctite and you should be good to go.
 

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I really Feel sorry for you. I cant tell you how many times I have finished a racein 1st place on 3 wheels witha T4. Not to mention 5 of everything in the pit box. I guess thats why I don't run them any more. XXXT CR is a much Stronger Truck.
 

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I really Feel sorry for you. I cant tell you how many times I have finished a racein 1st place on 3 wheels witha T4. Not to mention 5 of everything in the pit box. I guess thats why I don't run them any more. XXXT CR is a much Stronger Truck.
Its all personal preference....My T4's have never failed me,only driver ERROR has caused me not to finish a heat or race.
 

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I tis not personal Prefrence when it comes to durability. I would rather Drive a T4. I had one set up for Mod Carpet racing that was great,but it was ALL GPM Aluminum. Not a truck you really want to scratch up in the dirt. It was a tank.
 

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And Aluminum Steering Nuckles,and Aluminum Caster blocks,and aluminum servo saver arms,and ......... Just too much to replace. Much Cheaper to buy a Losi. I have broken a T4 with a light 2' tumble and Cart wheel. Much less than dropping it. I was actually Broke by another Racer flipping me over from the rear over a small mogul before the start of the A-main at the Big Kahuna Race one year. I was just checking in not running hot laps. That was the race that made me Switch Brands(12 years Associated). Now a Losi I have Practiced with 1/8 Scale Buggys and Truggys and the only Major break was when one landed on top of me over a huge Down Hill Double Jump at Leasure Hours with the Throttle Pegged. It pretty much twisted the center out of the diff gear. 2-3 Broken arms in 3+ years with the Losi much better than 1-2 a week on the T4. I broke 3 T4 Chassis,most just cracked. Not any Losi Chassis YET!, Just a battery bar Broke it two wth a wide open(30-35MPH) hit to a 3/4" Sheet of ply wood. Kind of spit the battery out like a Test Dummy. I have cut my parts bill down to about 90-95% less of what I spent keeping parts on the T4. I am running the Same 8.5,5.5,and 3.5 Motors and Speed control I have ran for the past 5 years. It takes a really hard hit to break a Losi. If your not Breaking it your not Going Fast Enough.
 

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Getting back in and plan on getting the T4. I plan to get the Futaba 2PL Sport FHSS and a better stering servo right away. There seems to be a lot of free play in the sterring servo that come on the rtr kits. What other suggestions do you have for set up and race prep? I'll be racing dirt and asphalt.
Though I do agree the Losi is a better durable truck, that's neither here nor there, the decision has been made! lol!

You have the right idea with a better servo. You don't have to go balls-out, but there are tons of servos in the 40-50 range that are bullet-proof.

I don't know what your budget is, but I'd HIGHLY recommend going with a brushless/lipo combo. Even if you go used, a Novak XBR/13.5 and a used SMC can be had for $100-150, and they will FAR FAR FAR outperform a sport NiMH/Brushed speedo you'd buy in the hobbyshop.

Good questions, hope this helps!

~Showtime
 

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i have driven both and alway had better luck with the t4.. the last one i had i didnt break anything and drove hard.... the losi i couldnt drive it hard, it was more of a finess kind of truck so i got rid of it and went back.. associated forever! well except 1/8 scale but thats another story...LOL setup, i found if you have 35wt in front and 30 in the rear drives really nice
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was looking at the factory kit and then adding my own electronic components but was also considering a brushed system and Ni-Mh to start and then later maybe going brushless once i get a good feel for the truck. I local shop guy told me the novak 10.5 system worked great in that truck.
 

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I was looking at the factory kit and then adding my own electronic components but was also considering a brushed system and Ni-Mh to start and then later maybe going brushless once i get a good feel for the truck. I local shop guy told me the novak 10.5 system worked great in that truck.
the novak 10.5 is an awsome kit to start with, i like mine with that setup in it..
 

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I would get the 8.5 It is just a little Faster. If you end up racing Mod. the 8.5 will just keep up with a 5.5 on most tracks but it is a little easier to drive. Thats what I run for Mod. the 5.5 will smoke the 10.5 down the strait.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the track i would be running on doesn't have but one very long straight, the rest is turns and jumps. Really a good suspension set up and more lower end is what i will be looking for.
The more I think about it, i may just go ahead and get the brushless system and lipo's and learn to drive it that way rather than but the cheaper stuff, learn to drive, just to turn arond and make the upgrade and have to learn to drive with the extra power.
 

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i ran my t4 at the local track and i ran the 10.5 with all the other mod trucks that were running 8.5 and i have the track record by 1 lap, it doesnt matter much about what size motor you have its how you drive it...
 

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Definetly get a brushless and Lipo if you can afford to. You will waste money on the NIMH battery packs and be dissapointed in the run times and power delivery. I have never broken an A-arm on a T4 all my errors resulted in broken caster blocks.
 

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I guess I'm the only one thats pushed a T4 to the limit and broke both A-arms on the left side,Rear Chassis plate rear body mount, rear shock tower,Front Aluminum hinge pin brace,Steering Rack and Pulled the berrings Through the front wheel. It was pretty much done for the night. LOL!!!!!
 

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I have broken all the body mounts at some point. I also have the SC10 and last weekend we raced outside at about 52 degrees and I found both of my rear wheels busted in the center. Also broke a bellcrank, I guess cold weather can be rough.
 
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