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I have the car and it is awesome!, you need ot get the front diff if your running on carpet, also you should buy the optional toe in adjuster blocks! the car is well manufactured and there is almost no rolling resistance in the driveline. no extra work needed!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's good to hear. I finished mine last night. The only glitch, was that I put a 48p spur gear on and it slightly rubs the bottom cutout, so right now, I have no idea how free the drivetrain really is.

P.S. Arn't those the best shocks ever :hat:
 

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It truly is a quality piece. It was hard not to drool on mine as I built it. The kit setup is very good for rubber tire parking lot racing.

I built mine last week and let a friend race it this past weekend in a local trophy race (I couldn't race as I was the busy race director). He finished 2nd in the A with only four practice packs and very minor setup changes to the car before qualifying began. Not too shabby. It was also his first time racing a one-way equipped car. We were all very impressed with the car.

I'm looking forward to racing it this weekend. Should be fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If anybody has had any success or failures with the kit, let us know. This car could easily take over the touring scene.
 

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Its a beast on carpet too, I bought the BMI conversion as well and it is just awesome! had my first race last night with it, I havent been racing since the 04 ROAR carpet nats in cleveland and I turned some pretty fast laps! withing a half a seconf of our fastest guy right now. grante they werent super consistant but it wasnt because of the car! LOL Yes they are super smooth shocks! I was stale with the tc3 I had it for 3 years. was time for a change and it was a change for the better!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Has anyone gone to 48p spur and pinion? I already had an assortment of pinions and I didn't want to invest 30 into a new set. What is a good starting pinion and spur for stock racing?
 

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XXX-SCapece said:
Has anyone gone to 48p spur and pinion? I already had an assortment of pinions and I didn't want to invest 30 into a new set. What is a good starting pinion and spur for stock racing?
64 pitch is all I have ever run except for offroad, and its hard to say what pinion to start with because every track is different and it depends largely on tire size as well, you should figure your ratio by roll out numbers not just gear alone. roll out takes tire size, diff ratio and gear ratio all into account.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mr-Tamiya said:
64 pitch is all I have ever run except for offroad, and its hard to say what pinion to start with because every track is different and it depends largely on tire size as well, you should figure your ratio by roll out numbers not just gear alone. roll out takes tire size, diff ratio and gear ratio all into account.
I just wanted a starting number(like the TC3's is 25). I haven't found any rollout charts for the Pro 4, yet.
 

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XXX-SCapece said:
I just wanted a starting number(like the TC3's is 25). I haven't found any rollout charts for the Pro 4, yet.
I have the roll out chart, again I run 64 pitch and I run 33, tell me your tooth size of your 48 pitch and i can give a rough estimate of one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Mr-Tamiya said:
I have the roll out chart, again I run 64 pitch and I run 33, tell me your tooth size of your 48 pitch and i can give a rough estimate of one.
Don't worry about it. I went to do some testing today, and got it down. The Pro4 was killer today.

When you first ran it, did you have any of the ball joints rub the tires? Mine did on the F upright and I had neutral roll centers set.

The factory set up worked extremely well with a Mazda 6 on a semi-dusty fast track.
 

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i just got a pro 4 2 days ago and haven't got it together yet. any suggestions or mods . i plan on racing it at southgate soon. i am gonna swap out the front one way and thats about it right now .
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Make sure you do a through job of taking out the upper servo bracket. It not and the main driveshaft has a slight wobble in it, they will touch each other and create drag. I discovered that problem today.
 

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mypro4racer said:
i just got a pro 4 2 days ago and haven't got it together yet. any suggestions or mods . i plan on racing it at southgate soon. i am gonna swap out the front one way and thats about it right now .
I race at south gate, definitley the front diff, the stock chassis is fine, mine has the bmi chassis on it. but i bought mine that way. if you need a set up pm me and I will give you the one thats on the car now. it works
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Has anyone noticed that a step was left out of the instructions?

The upper deck brace was not included in the manual.

What are the two sets of two screw holes on the motor side of the chassis for? Is there somekind of part that you can screw in to protect the electronics.
 

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XXX-SCapece said:
Has anyone noticed that a step was left out of the instructions?

The upper deck brace was not included in the manual.

What are the two sets of two screw holes on the motor side of the chassis for? Is there somekind of part that you can screw in to protect the electronics.
I was wondering that myself, but my upper deck instructions are there in my book. I have those holes in my BMI chassis as well if they were on the other side I would have thought they were for nerf wings!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Mr-Tamiya said:
I was wondering that myself, but my upper deck instructions are there in my book. I have those holes in my BMI chassis as well if they were on the other side I would have thought they were for nerf wings!
Maybe there's some part on a parts tree that we threw away thinking it was an extra plastic? I hope HPI will release nerfwings for the Pro 4. Or even better, we could use those holes and make a graphite shield to protect from side impacts. I've seen some pics of Japanese pro4s with spider web-like cages enclosing the electronics.
 

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The car is pretty light, I am thinking that the holes are there so you can add weights. My suggestion would be to call hpi and ask them. I dont recall seeing any real reason for those holes.
 

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YOur right Joneser-they are there for a screw in weight set HPPI is coming out with-like the Xray.
joneser said:
The car is pretty light, I am thinking that the holes are there so you can add weights. My suggestion would be to call hpi and ask them. I dont recall seeing any real reason for those holes.
 
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