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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone here know how to replace the hose. it is not as simple as I first thought. The fuel line is rotted off right where it passes through the engine housing wall to the carb. The carb is inside the engine housing which is also contains the gas tank. The tank and housing appear to be made in two halves then assembled and sealed together over the engine. Also it seeems that inorder to remove the housing then the gas tank will need to split as well. Am I wrong? Is there an easy way? I have no repair manual so just feeling my way along trying not to break anything. Iron Man
 

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NO! The fuel tank does not need to be split. If you do you may never get it resealed again.

The entire housing comes off.

You already have the air filter off, now the two screws holding the carburetor on (# 28) need to be removed.

Remove the wrap around handle on the front of the saw( not totally necessary, but will make tank removal easier).

There are 4 cap head screws near the front of the tank assembly holding it on (#30). Two on top and two on the bottom. Take the screws off and the tank will slide off from the flywheel side of the engine. The carburetor comes off with the fuel tank. Now you should be able to replace the fuel hose fairly easy.

Just reverse this procedure to reinstall.


Best of Luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
30Yeartech, Thank you for the support I was hoping there was a better way to get that housing off. I'll get going on it now and let you all know how it went. Iron Man
 

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ironman just letting you know you wont be able to find 150 parts from homelite themselves since they went to china made items the american made homelites are being extinct and i happen to have a few 150 parts still on hand but will be getting more in as time goes by after i get back in the ope business once bankruptcy is over with i will become a homelite american made products super store as well as mcculloch and poulan on the web



calvin
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Calvin, Yes keep me on you hit list for HL parts in the future. I hope you succeed in your plans. As for me I did the hose replace job and used an Echo hose, and that worked ok. Problem is saw still not running, I suspected the rotted fuel line got into the carb. This am I tore it down and inspected the carb and it had a very dirty and had a clogged screen. So I cleaned everthing I could including the high and low speed jets, small orifices and so on. I ran into a problem reassembling the parts that allow gas to enter the carb in via a diaphram operated inlet valve. I assembled the assembly with the metering lever turned backwards. As I tightened the screws it bent as to straighten it some. I reversed the lever and found the lever too straight to lift the valve off the seat, now I have bent it a little and it has enough lift to open the fuel into the carb. Thing is I don't know if it's the right amount of lift or not, might be too much. When I put the diaphram and cover back on it seems to ride a little high. Do you know how much the little lever is supposed to lift the valve when the diaphram pushes it down. The model # on the top of the carb is HDC L54 11/80. The second photo shows the asembled metering lever on the carb w/o cover. Iron Man
 

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It's hard to tell for sure, but looks like the lever may be set a little high. Take the gasket off the carburetor and use a straight edge, and run it across the carburetor body just over the top of the lever. The lever should be even with or just slightly below the straight edge. If the straight edge pushes down on the lever then it's set too high.

Best of Luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, I put it back together like iit was in the picture#2, that was before I got your reply. Anyway it started up on the first pull and I was able to cut a little on the tree before it fluttered out. I could not get the idle speed to hold steady. It would slow when I turned the idle dcrew CC, but would creep back up higher. I was turning the H and L speed needle valves trying to get max power and smooth speed transitions when it died out. Having it run and cut the roots off a stump for about 10 minutes was very encouraging. I will get a kit for the carb and set the bend height of the metering lever like you said. Thanks for helping as I had never worked on a diaphram carb before and know next to nothing about them. I will be sure and post back here when I get it just right. Iron Man
 

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Ok, I put it back together like iit was in the picture#2, that was before I got your reply. Anyway it started up on the first pull and I was able to cut a little on the tree before it fluttered out. I could not get the idle speed to hold steady. It would slow when I turned the idle dcrew CC, but would creep back up higher. I was turning the H and L speed needle valves trying to get max power and smooth speed transitions when it died out. Having it run and cut the roots off a stump for about 10 minutes was very encouraging. I will get a kit for the carb and set the bend height of the metering lever like you said. Thanks for helping as I had never worked on a diaphram carb before and know next to nothing about them. I will be sure and post back here when I get it just right. Iron Man

thats a start them saws are tough once we get the carb fixed you will be surprised on how much performance it will show
 
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