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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well my Tomy AFX Super International finally arrived after a frustrating 13 day wait. I built the Oak Creek 36 (from Braun's layout plans) on a hollow core just to get started. Couple of questions:

The Track, fits together well but seems a little crooked. For example 3-4 15" straights hooked together will have a pronounced curve to them. Same thing for curves, seems that for every joint I tighten, another one opens up. What's the easy fix for this?

The Cars, the Super G+ Indy cars are rockets! OMG they are fun, but what about something slower? What's that one sorta fast popular car that everyone has a few of because they are fun to run?

The Controllers, probably have to go. Not enough "resolution" for me. The cars almost seems to have 3 speeds; off-fast-super fast. Will the Parma Basic 45-ohm serve me as well as the vendors say?

Thanks everyone!
Scott
OKC, OK
 

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cars and controllers

hi scott

super G+s, tyco 440x2s, lifelike T chassis, wizzard patriots and storms, and tomy SRTs are all FAST cars. 30, 35, 45 ohm controllers are probably good.

tomy turbos are a bit slower but still fun.

tjets, JLTO, and AW Thunderjet 500s are older slower chassis, and you will need a 60 ohm or 90 ohm controller (i use 90 and 120 ohm controllers).

other slower but fun chassis include magnatraction, Xtraction, and tyco HP2 curvehugger chassis (the 1980 style with traction magnets). a 60 ohm controller would be good for these. another slower type of chassis are tyco HP7 chassises, but i dont car much for them. AMRAC and older lifelikes (fast trackers and M chassis) would probably do fine on a 45 or 60 ohm controller.

as you can see, its going to be hard to enjoy all stlyes with one type of controller, unless you spend $200 or so for an electronic controller with a wide range of adjustability.

but they are all fun!!!
 

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sed6 said:
The Track, fits together well but seems a little crooked. For example 3-4 15" straights hooked together will have a pronounced curve to them. Same thing for curves, seems that for every joint I tighten, another one opens up. What's the easy fix for this?
Regarding the straights, I think the only fix is to try and pair them up, and alternate the swagger down the straight. It is a known issue, and something that I think Cordoba mentioned previously in a thread. I unfortunatly did not pay as much attention to this as I should of, primarily when I made my power tap and lap timing tracks. These side-by-side straights swerve away from each other causing a gap down the straightaway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the car tips, keep them coming! Regarding the track, I might not have been clear. I'm not concerned with gap between two lanes, rather the gap where two pieces of track join one another.

Let me explain more clearly. Let's say I make a long oval, and my last track joint is in the middle of a turn, when all the pieces are connected (except that last connection in the middle of the turn) in their 'relaxed' position my oval looks like a really long 'C' Now when I push those last two pieces together to close the 'C' into an oval other joints open up, perhaps as much as 1/4 inch. Ideas?
 

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Ohhh....Those gaps!

I think it could be same thing however- crooked 15" straights throwing the layout out of kilter. Plus, I read the 90 deg 9" curves are not really a 90, so if you have those in the layout, they can throw you off slightly also.

You may want to grind off the tabs (if you haven't already, and if your plans include attaching the track down). Those tabs can cause you grief if your track ends don't meet perfectly, pushing up one track end higher then the adjoining one. That's about all the tips I can think of, other then dispersing whatever gap you end up with as smaller gaps between multiple track connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Scafremon said:
You may want to grind off the tabs...other then dispersing whatever gap you end up with as smaller gaps between multiple track connections.
That's the ticket! Seems the gap is either there, and substantial, or not there at all. If I grind off the tabs I can then space the gap out.
Great idea :thumbsup:
 

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Please make sure you understand what tabs I am referring to. There should be some info here on the forum if you search, or I can post some pics when I get home.

I’d hate for you to grind off too much, and cause dips and/or weak points in track.

For example, I almost grinded off top AND bottom tabs, but realized before doing so that this could create dips at the track connection. IMO you need one tab – just not two.
 
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