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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First, I am going to say I have never taken one of these apart, so keep that in mind. :)

When I opened this brand new, the gear was loose in the package. So, I put it back in, but it keeps popping out.
The secondary idler gear keeps popping out from all the slack in the Cluster gear. Is there a fix for this?



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That is probably the worst one I have ever seen. If this is a brand new car I would probably exchange it. If not you just need to take the retainer clip off , put the gear plate on a hard surface and use a hammer and nail set to tap down the rivet in the center of the last gear. Tap it gently and check for progress as you go. Too loose is as bad as too tight.

Good Luck,
Old Blue
 

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on the very rear gear of the 3 gear AW cars, I used a hammer and peening tool to tighten up the rear gear.

look like tat may help u as well

some guys replace the post with a screw, then they can set it just right
 

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that was weird,
old blue's post was 40+ minutes before mine, but did not show up when I looked at the post.

yes, they remove the current post(rivet) and replace it.

not sure but there may be a thread already on the BB that list the best screw to use as well
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright, I used a crown gear puller to press the rivet out. Now to find the right size screw. :tongue:




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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Alright, I used a 3/32 drill bit to enlarge the hole in the gear so a 2-56 X 3/16th button head cap screw would fit through the gear without binding. I used a 2-56 tap to thread the hole in the gear plate.





The screw fits flush on the underside of the plate. I put a small dab of super glue on the end of the screw to keep it from backing out.



I'm happy with the final result. :)



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Discussion Starter #14

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Only down side of using any of these type screws, is that the gear rides/spins on a bit of threaded steel, instead of the smooth shank of the rivet. In the long term, the plastic gear will start wearing grooves(and either enlarge it's hole or create friction?) in it's hole due to the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Only down side of using any of these type screws, is that the gear rides/spins on a bit of threaded steel, instead of the smooth shank of the rivet. In the long term, the plastic gear will start wearing grooves(and either enlarge it's hole or create friction?) in it's hole due to the threads.
You know, I thought that very same thing. And it may turn out that way, only time will tell.

But, if you look at this enlargement of the screw, the "peaks" of the threads appear more rounded than sharp, like you would think they would be. And instead of the gear making full contact with the smooth shaft of the rivet, with the screw it is riding on the ridges, which would be less contact, thus less friction. Plus, the ridges are at and angle (spiral), so they shouldn't cut a (straight) groove into the plastic gear. Does that make sense? LOL! :freak:




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ummmm...

Well Travis, I'm glad you thought about it. But think about this, although the steel threads wouldn't cut a straight groove, the spiral action of the thread on the spinning gear would maybe even act like Drill bit or boring auger ? So instead of merely cutting grooves, in time it might act like reaming a larger(oblong) hole ? Just an idea...
You know, I thought that very same thing. And it may turn out that way, only time will tell.

But, if you look at this enlargement of the screw, the "peaks" of the threads appear more rounded than sharp, like you would think they would be. And instead of the gear making full contact with the smooth shaft of the rivet, with the screw it is riding on the ridges, which would be less contact, thus less friction. Plus, the ridges are at and angle (spiral), so they shouldn't cut a (straight) groove into the plastic gear. Does that make sense? LOL! :freak:




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