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So...
It seems that no matter what lengths I go to to keep my fingers glue-free, even the simplest, fastest of glue jobs leaves me with glue on my fingers. Which then gets all over places it shouldn't. Usually the model's surface that I'm working on at the time.

And once there's some glue on a finger, there seems to be an exponential potential for more glue to get on more fingers.

The only obvious solution I see is to chop my fingers off. However, I'm looking for a more subtle and cunning solution.

What lengths do you go, what techniques do you use, to keep your fingers free of glue?

Thanks!
 

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Model Man;What lengths do you go said:
Well....I usually keep the glue in the bottle or on the model! Ever tried that? :lol: Now I would be lying if I said I never get Tamiya Extra Thin under my fingers from time to time...

CA glue, now THAT'S a different story.

hal9001-

P.S. Please dont' chop you fingers off. We wouldn't get any more cool videos!
 

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Glue doesn't get on your fingers unless you are sloppy with it somehow. What type of glue do you use? Tube glue is messy and can get all over the place since its thick, and can ooze out of a joint and get all over the surface of the model. For general gluing, I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement or Gunze Mr. Cement Type S. Both are very thin, brush on types. You hold two parts together, tough the micro brush to the joint, and the glue capillary action travels along the seam. Very neat with little to no glue on the outside of the model.

With tube glue, CA glue, etc. that you must squeeze out of some sort of tube or bottle, its best to apply some glue to something like a bottle cap, and then transfer the glue to your model with a wire or tooth pick to avoid squirting glue out all over your model or hands.
 

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MM,

Happens to me, too. I just keep a rag handy and wipe my fingers off, frequently with the aid of lacquer thinner, which is also on my workbench. If you're talking about super glue, debonder can be a life (or at least, fingerprint)-saver.
 

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I can suggest two ways to prevent glue fingers. If you are in a hurry you may want to skip directly to Method B

Method A:

1. Lay a sheet of hardened glass on you work surface.
2. Lay down a bead of your favorite glue in the same basic shape as the seam you are trying to fill.
3. Wait until the glue has dried *hard as a rock*
4. Use a razor blade to peel up the "glue preform"
5. Apply "glue preform" into model's seam
6. Press and hold the two model parts together with enough force to cause a molecular breakdown of the glue and plastic thereby resulting in a fusion reaction between the two parts.
7. Repeat as necessary.

Notes:
- Safety first- Hardened glass is recommended to prevent the risk of breakage.
- You may wish to use the edge of a credit card instead of the razor knife for glue peeling in order to reduce the risk of bloodshed.
- Your mileage may vary :wave:


Method B:

Apply Tamiya Extra Thin cement with a fine point set of tweezers. The finer the better This product dries quickly and the use of tweezers allows excellent metering of volume and accuracy of placement.


Regards,
MattL
 

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For large seams I use I ruling pen. It's old school and they are getting a little hard to find but they hold a lot of glue which is good for long seams!

It's my primary way of applying glue.

hal9001-
 

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The best way to apply liquid glue along the seams is with an old fashioned draftsman ruling pen. Unfortunately I lost mine in a recent flood and because they are obselete, I can't find them anywhere.
 

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My problem is I keep knocking over a bottle of Tenax that's why I keep it
away from the model. Nobody to blame except me.
I keep mine in a home made holder - a cut down section of toilet paper tube hot glued to an old coaster. The bottle fits inside and can't be knocked over.
 

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I wear latex gloves when cementing, painting or puttying, and keep all containers in the same location when not in use and within arms reach. :hat:
 

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So...
It seems that no matter what lengths I go to to keep my fingers glue-free, even the simplest, fastest of glue jobs leaves me with glue on my fingers.
Welcome to MY world! :rolleyes: It seems that no matter how careful I am I can't keep from making a mess with glue. The thicker it is, the more I messy it is!

Glue doesn't get on your fingers unless you are sloppy with it somehow.
That simply isn't true! I'm very careful. However, glue squeeze out gets me most of the time - even with thin CA type glues. There's no real way to measure this perfectly. I use a whip for the top of the bottle neck. This allows more control over it than just holding the bottle then squeezing out the glue onto a part. I bought a few of these on evilbay. I don't have as much, but there still is a little to contend with. You also have viscosity to deal with as well - the thinner takes too long to set up waiting for small parts, and the thicker glue has too much viscosity to be smooth enough to use with them. It sets faster, but it makes more squeeze out, and making the most of it seems impossible when it's all over! I take an X-acto blade to the squeeze out spots, but acetone is the only thing that I use to remove it from my hands. I have to do this a lot to keep them clean enough that I can still use my fingernails to prod small parts into position. I can't wear gloves for those. Larger models yes - smaller ones, well......:confused:

~ Chris​
 

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I don't often get the sticky fingers but today was the second time (at least) that I've knocked over a bottle of Testors liquid. Wouldn't be so bad but I was working on the hardwood kitchen table. I think I mopped it up quickly enough to save the finish but the fumes are going to be with us for a while. :freak: Got to make one of those holders.
 

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I keep mine on the table that I work at, but I leave it in one place so that I know where it is all the time. I've only knocked it over a couple of times. Another thing to keep from getting a lot of glue squeeze out is to use the edge of the blade to apply glue to small parts. This is what I usually do to keep from making a mess of them. CA glue won't stick to metal very well, so this makes it easier for me to take another used blade to the edges to remove it from my main working X-acto blade.

~ Chris​
 

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For the past Ten years I have used IPS Weldon #3 and #4 water thin liquid cements. It's been at least that long since I have gotten ANY excess glue on the models other than where I intend to put it. I take my time when building and I am very careful in my building technique, neatness counts.....it ain't Rocket Science.
 

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I take my time when building and I am very careful in my building technique, neatness counts.....it ain't Rocket Science.
I take my time too, but there are times when it can't be controlled! :rolleyes: I want my models to look professional, not glue bombs. I don't get glue anywhere except where I want it when I build out of the box - this is where we differ. When you make your own models it isn't always cut, and dried assembly. I've made a lot of things over the years, and I've learned that not every situation is going to be the same. You learn how much is enough, and how much too much. Also not all glues are the same viscosity. I also use many different types of materials as well as adhesives when building - not all are created equal! You live and you learn when you need something in a rush and are unfamiliar with it. :drunk: Trust me - I've had my good days, and bad days with glues. More than any of you will ever know, but one thing remains the same: I get the job done with with durability no matter how long it takes.

~ Chris​
 

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I use the Magna-eruptus Super Soaker...gets glue right where I want it:thumbsup:


Same kind Michael used!

Mcdee:wave:
 
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