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azazelfallen said:
Hey guys.
i have an epic outlaw pro 19 with a 18t pinion on my electric evader. I effectively locked my rear differential to achieve positraction using red locktite on the nut. however, now the bolt that goes through the outdrives is too close to the edge and barely allows the cvd to fit in. which also makes it so my shocks on that side dont work because the cvd cant slide into the outdrive. how can I fix this. Keep in mind it is red locktite together so i cant really take it apart.
the best way to fix is to file down the end of the nut. try using a small file. but you way have to try to remove the diff screw. if you do, do that i wouls ay loose the spring when you put it together and use a much shorter screw.

orbitron:
roller evader? i bought a rtr with traxxas big bores for less then $50. so i would maybe ask $65-ish with the bodies and some extra tires.

;) and no i don't need a third..... my son wants to gut his electronics and build a tlt(he turned eight last week and scored almost anuff).




on another topic what has everybody else added to the rc fleet? or intend to pick up? would like to just get a few of the evader pro parts, and anuff parts to finish off the rusty to stampede conversion(finally). i have added a the tlt to my slow growng fleet. it's my favorite rc ever! dosen't need many hop-ups, but i dao have a proto typr penguin rc chassis on it.


have a good day all
peter
:thumbsup:
 

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quick questions...

when repacking the tranny gears back into the plastic case, what is the best oil/grease/lube to use?

on jep r/c's website i noticed he no longer does business... does anyone know where we can get his unique hop-ups?

thanks for any help guys...
 

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i used to use ae stealth grease, but have switched to a really thick cable grease from bocca. if you race and need/want a really smotth diff go with a tamiya/ae ball diff grease if you just bash i would go with a thicker grease ae black grease.....

peter
 

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Jep RC

PapaST said:
on jep r/c's website i noticed he no longer does business... does anyone know where we can get his unique hop-ups?
If this is true.... the Evader is in trouble. I would never run one without the Jep RC front brace. I couldn't keep up to the breakage. I have three Evaders. Two equipped with JepRC front brace and one with an aluminum bulk head. The one with the aluminum bulkhead still gets some front end breakage but the plastic bulkhead and JepRC equipped units are bullet proof. I have one spare Jep front brace and I wouldnt trade it for an aluminum bulk head even up. I notice that the pro evader has the same stress tech as std models (not graphite) front bulkhead. I hope Duratrax wakes up and emulates the Jep front brace system.
 

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XXT CR for Evader

philp37 said:
Yes the XXT did come with two arms. I under stand that one of the arms combined with a few other parts is what is known as the "CR" kit. This kit is supposed to offer the handling of the XXXT. What I have wondered for some time is: Will the CR kit give the Evader the same type of handling and Will it fit????
Follow up to my own comment and question. While surfing through the original evader thread that began with Hanksters new product review on the Evader, I found someone who had equipped the evader ST with the XXT CR rear tower and rear A arms.
 
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Discussion Starter #2,266 (Edited)
I used black grease, ae diff lude and even a lite auto grease, but now I use Lithium grease in my tranny. Its runs smooth as silk.

Philp37 -
DuraTrax does make a front brace for the Nitro Evader. But they dont make the brace for the backside of the bulkhead. I wish they would. My kids would stop breaking suspension arms. I think I will take a photo of the brace and a truck to a local shop and see if they can make me several of those rear braces.

UPDATE: Just found a link for Losi XXT braces just like those that Jep sold since XXT and Evaders are interchangable. Little more expensive but it sure beats replacing plastic all the time. http://store.racers-edge.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog&parent_id=208
 

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Jep braces

Thanks for the info Mastec... I put in the order so as soon as they come in I'll let you know how they are. Although I've never had a set of the originals so I won't have much to compare them to.

Thanks again
 

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Philp37 -
DuraTrax does make a front brace for the Nitro Evader. But they dont make the brace for the backside of the bulkhead. I wish they would. My kids would stop breaking suspension arms. I think I will take a photo of the brace and a truck to a local shop and see if they can make me several of those rear braces.

UPDATE: Just found a link for Losi XXT braces just like those that Jep sold since XXT and Evaders are interchangable. Little more expensive but it sure beats replacing plastic all the time. http://store.racers-edge.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog&parent_id=208[/QUOTE]

You are right... it is the back brace portion that is so important. That is why the aluminum one piece front brace from Durtrax is of little or no help. Even the aluminum bulkhead helps little. Are you sure this is a two piece brace and are you sure that it fits. I believe the front bulkhead system for the XXT is quite differant.
 

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philp37 said:
Follow up to my own comment and question. While surfing through the original evader thread that began with Hanksters new product review on the Evader, I found someone who had equipped the evader ST with the XXT CR rear tower and rear A arms.
on evader #1 i have xxt cr shock towers front and rear. the only diff is they have a few more ounting locations for the shocks. the front c-hub/spindles from the xx work for the evader as well. they give the truck a little better turning, from better geomitry.
 
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philp37 said:
Are you sure this is a two piece brace and are you sure that it fits. I believe the front bulkhead system for the XXT is quite differant.
Well, I found an exploded view of parts for the XXT and it is almost like looking at the Evader manual. http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/exploded/xxt.pdf By the looks of it, the Evader is just an XXT with a different name.
 

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Thanks Mastec for the link to the Losi drawings. I now have the answer on the rear arms that didn't fit on my Evader. The Losi XXT arms are longer that the XXT-CR arms. The XXT-CR arms(#9810) will fit the Evader, but the longer ones will not.


Live and learn...
 

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Battery connector HOT!

After running down a battery I've noticed my Tamiya style battery connector running off the ESC is hotter than HADES!!! Also it is almost impossible to disconnect. I have a couple of ideas but thought I'd leave it up to the experts. This problem appears to have started after getting a new Duratrax 12T ESC... I'm running a 13T Speed Gem on a 22t pinion and an 88t spur. I'm not exactly killing it but I'm sure the new engine could be the culprit for the heat. Also I noticed the black cable does seem a bit corroded. According to Duratrax help, that is a "black wire corrosion". So I'd assume either my engine is causing all the heat, or the black wire thing, or even both. I know you can prevent black wire by disconnecting your battery when not in use (which i already was doing). What do you guys think I should do to change this heat problem?

All suggestions are welcome... Thanks!!!
 

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i say go with deans or power pole connectors. tamiya plugs are know to heat up with high draw motors. and they break down over time.

good luck

how is the evader handliong the 13t?
 

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Thanks for the advice. Is that pretty much my only option for that problem?

The evader handles the 13t speed gem well. For a novice driver like myself, it gives good speed and torque with some decent battery time. I enjoy it alot more than the D5 12t I had in it before. That was alot of fun but wrecks at that speed can get expensive. That's what's prompting me to build up a second chassis with all the aluminum hop ups.

I'm not a great solderer... so can anyone tell me which one is easier to solder? Power poles or Dean's?
 

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I would also suggest getting rid of that 22T pinion gear. I ran a 13T Speed Gem in my Evader, and I never went bigger than an 18 tooth pinion.

Buying a good strong soldering iron(spend the extra $10 for the higher wattage) and a set of those "third-hand" clamp assemblies is a wise investment that you will keep for many years. The third hand will help if you decide to use Deans plugs like a lot of us do.

Best of luck!
 

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Thanks again everyone for all the advice.

It was a toss up between Deans and Powerpoles... since powerpoles are easier to solder I was leaning towards them. I also read somewhere that they have 3x less resistance and stuff. Is it the general consensus that Deans are better or Powerpoles? How much better? I might just suck it up and learn how to solder well rather than go for the easier of the two.

I'll change the 22t to an 18t with an 88t spur. Thanks... with that "ratio" in mind what would you suggest running with the Epic Binary Pro, P2K2 Pro and Monster Pro... something like a 16t???? I understand the gearing aspect and I have all the charts for gear ratios. But the one part I haven't found much on is how to directly correlate what engine you're running in relation to your gear ratio. I can gear my engine fast as anything but it still boils down to the engine that is pushing the gears. And I haven't really found much in the way of setup sheets with others showing what gears with what engine.

Sorry for the long post... and thanks again.
 

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hey long posts are fun, as long as they have a point! i myself don't solder well! use deans solder! made my soldering jobs better. power poles are nice but you have to be carefull about crossing the wires. were deans the plugs only go one way.


you might have the motor a little over geared, but i still think it's the tamiya plugs going bad.
 
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I use Deans on my kids trucks. I used them 15 yrs ago and use them today now that I am back into the hobby.
 
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