[Guest]

Duratrax Discussion

Hello Hank and all.
I think this discussion board could use a new "Duratrax Discussion" so I figure, hey, I'll start.

My Nitro Quake has had one heck of summer. But, I'm looking for a way to soften the suspension to be real squishy like. I find mine are rather stiff overall for the oils I've tried. Kind of an experiment.
Has anybody tried to get a squishy feel to the Nitro Quake?
What combo of springs/oil did you use and did you modifiy the suspension arms and/or tower?
Or, more general, what are the best combo between springs/oil did you all find best on the N/Q? And which situation (Big bumpy hill, big jumps,...)?
I've been useing the Heavy Silver springs from Duratrax on the back and the stock springs on the front with 90 weight oil all around. I love it on big jumps and real rocky ground, but it lacks an ability to turn sharply.
Anyways....

Thanks.
Progcraft.

 

[hankster]

I'm using the stock springs in front with Kyosho MP7 white springs on the rear. I got these before DuraTrax come out with theirs. I think I have 60 weight oil all around... mine is pretty "squishy".

 

[JB_The_Evader]

I read in another post that duratrax may eventually release some carbon fiber hop-ups for the evader. I urge you to email them and request that they manufacture them. May not do anything, but at least they'll know we want 'em.
What setup do you use on your evader? What hop-ups? And has anybody found a good aftermarket body that can easily be mounted on the evader?

 

[brucestyves]

Check out the Evader topic on this board

Check out the Evader topic on this board for a lot of good info on some aftermarket stuff that will work on the Evader. There are some parts for the Losi XXT that work with the Evader.

 

[Guest]

Hi -
Any body designed for the Losi XXT or XXXT seem to work fine. I have a Pro-line F150 XXT body painted up on mine. Check out my other post under the Evader Hop-ups thread for a cool bulkhead brace.

Jep

 

[hankster]

You can see a MF XXXT (Losi Fury) body mounted on the Evader at http://teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=8 (it's the green and yellow one).

 

[Guest]

Here is a snap of my lego themed pro-line XXT body. This is the first R/C lexan body paint job I ever did. It has been thoroughly bashed about. XXT rims all the way around with Losi directionals on front and Losi step pins on back.

Jep

 

[JB_The_Evader]

When you use the losi body, will the pre-painted ones work? It looks like the body mounting holes aren't in the right spot. I realize that it probably won't work, but that would be a lot more convenient than painting and reaming my own body if it did.
Has anybody tried a trinity p-94 in their evader? I plan on getting a duratrax streak esc and a 12 turn double or triple wind p-94 (I'm also considering a reedy ti or a team orion chrome modified-- which of the three would you recommend?) Thank you all for answering my questions.

 

[Guest]

The Losi mount locations are very close, but I think the front ones are slightly off for the Evader - the rear ones were right on (judging by the pre-scored holes that were on my clear body). Do the pre-painted bodies come with the holes already punched? I thought even pre-painted bodies came un-cut so the user could tweak the final mount location.

Jep

 

[JB_The_Evader]

The bodies I were looking at were pre-painted with the body holes already punched, but I may have been looking at a triple-xnt body, not one for the xxt (I would assume that the two would be quite similar, but I don't know.)
BTW, cool looking evaders, hankster and jep:thumbsup:

 

[Guest]

BTW, cool looking evaders, hankster and jep:thumbsup:

Thanks! - Don't get an LXT body - the rear shocks are mounted differently and the body will not fit the Evader. Go to the Pro-line website: http://www.pro-lineracing.com/ and compare body pics for the XXT and LXT(nitro) trucks, the rear shock wells are positioned much farther back for the LXT. You should be safe with any body designed for the XXT, XXTcr, or XXXT.

 

[JB_The_Evader]

I'm thinking of turning my evader into a race-ready truck. Planned upgrades include a duratrax streak esc, 12 turn double trinity p-94, and a few of the losi xxt parts. Any ideas for other upgrades? Thanks

 

[Guest]

A 12 turn will be pushing it with the Streak. If you want a speed control that has a nice feel to it and can handle anything try the LRP V7.1 A more affordable choice when compared to the 7.1 would be the Novak Dually

 

[Guest]

I'm thinking of turning my evader into a race-ready truck. Planned upgrades include a duratrax streak esc, 12 turn double trinity p-94, and a few of the losi xxt parts. Any ideas for other upgrades? Thanks

Tires, tires, tires! Soft springs, and heavier weight shock oil - but a lot depends on your track - ask the regulars. For our track, I like to have a pair of step pins and a pair of bow ties on-hand for the rears (Losi or Pro-line, doesn't matter). I run Losi Directionals, or Pro-line The edge, or similar on the front. The toughest part for me was getting the Evader to calm down and stay down on our track (fairly rough)- the stock springs were just too stiff and the car bounced like crazy. I went with the Duratrax white soft springs and 30wt oil and it jams! Also battery position made a huge difference on rear traction - I was loose on acceleration when exiting turns - I cut the battery pad in 1/2 and put 1/2 on each side of the pack (putting the pack further back by 1/2 the pad width) - this really helped get more traction out of the turns. I run the stock motor and ESC with a 23 tooth pinion and have plenty of torque and great top end - right now I really don't know what I'd do with extra power, my skills aren't up to it. I would suggest waiting on expensive electronics and motors until you have raced the truck many times - get to know it's setup and got your driving skills dialed in, *then* consider more juice. Good Luck!

Jep

 

[JB_The_Evader]

Thanks! I already have a set of different springs (both green and white) and heavier oil (35 front, 30 rear.) As far as tires go, I have proline dirt hawgs on the back. They work fine for now because I won't be racing soon, and they are quite versatile. I probably won't get a new motor soon 'cause I'm saving up for a T-maxx, and I don't want to spend too much before I get (plus it would shorten my run time, and since I'm not racing I'd rather stick with the longer run time.)
Thanks again, Your suggestions will not go unnoticed

 

[JB_The_Evader]

Yesterday I got an ipc pro sport esc. Took me a wile to get it set up (it took me about an hour to realize I had it plugged into the receiver backwards.) Now that my esc can handle a better motor, I'd like to get a p-94, I;m thinking of something around 12-14 turns. Which should I get?

 

[smojoe]

iv had a p-94 12 turn layered for about 2 days now and it works greak for me! it had about 35000 rpm (i think) and about 230 whatevers of torque (once again, a guess) so you can get good speed and have to get-go stuff to use a larger pinion. this is just my $0.02

 

[JB_The_Evader]

Smojoe, what kind of gearing are using and about how fast does it go?
Thanks!
JB

 

[smojoe]

im currently using a 16 tooth pinion, but i will probly go down to 14 or 13. in a word, its fast. im using it in backyard bashing, and im making it down my diveway (which is 400 ft long) in about 7-10 seconds(this is just a S.W.A.G) and am also geting about 3 times as much higth on my jumps. but i have busted some parts (the diff was the first to go).


hope this helps,
smojoe

 

[JB_The_Evader]

broken parts

Smojoe, what parts did you break? was the breakage a result of the motor or from crashing/hard landings. I can understand how too powerful of a motor can mess up the gears. Is this the case with the diff?