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PAGE 25
ENGINE TECHNICAL INSPECTION
The QSAC engine rules are written to mean absolutely no engine modification is permitted and includes specifically that the addition or removal of material is not allowed. The rule as written and currently enforced is one of the foundation blocks of QSAC and Quarter Scale Racing. The publication of this procedure is meant as a method for contestants to check their own engines for compliance to the rules. It is not meant as a guide for “blueprinting” an engine within the parame-ters. An engine found to be altered, even though it may measure legal, will be disqualified and the altered parts will be confiscated and de-stroyed.

From QSAC rule book.
 

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Just a point to go along with the "common sense" thing on another thread. If you crack the engine mounts on the fan cover you CANNOT weld them up and run it at a QSAC race. Obviously no performance advantage but you add material. I have 2 covers like this but run them on the local level cause Its not a big deal but if I run an NCS race or at a track other than my weekly track then it gets a cover that is not broke or welded on. Not taking the chance. Also I believe it states we need to run a certian cup for sportsman on top of carb. Well we just broke our own rule huh? That cup requires everyone to run an airfilter other than stock. So the QSAC rule book contradicts itself. Just pointing it out not saying it needs to be changed. We can all come up with things and thats why as members of the club we have a chance to submit ideas or rules changes for approval or vote on the changes. If you dont offer ideas or vote on them you cant [email protected] about it. Remember this is a hobby we do for fun or atleast some of us do. I dont know of anyone who makes a living racing these cars

Steve Hill
 

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PAGE 25
ENGINE TECHNICAL INSPECTION
The QSAC engine rules are written to mean absolutely no engine modification is permitted and includes specifically that the addition or removal of material is not allowed. The rule as written and currently enforced is one of the foundation blocks of QSAC and Quarter Scale Racing. The publication of this procedure is meant as a method for contestants to check their own engines for compliance to the rules. It is not meant as a guide for “blueprinting” an engine within the parame-ters. An engine found to be altered, even though it may measure legal, will be disqualified and the altered parts will be confiscated and de-stroyed.

From QSAC rule book.
This is my favorite rule. I gave up telling people what I do because no one believes me.:)
 

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Just because I like to stir the pot, what was the original post in reference to? I'm guessng the engine assemblers are trying to be engine developers?
 

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PAGE 25
ENGINE TECHNICAL INSPECTION
The QSAC engine rules are written to mean absolutely no engine modification is permitted and includes specifically that the addition or removal of material is not allowed. The rule as written and currently enforced is one of the foundation blocks of QSAC and Quarter Scale Racing. The publication of this procedure is meant as a method for contestants to check their own engines for compliance to the rules. It is not meant as a guide for “blueprinting” an engine within the parame-ters. An engine found to be altered, even though it may measure legal, will be disqualified and the altered parts will be confiscated and de-stroyed.

From QSAC rule book.
Well with that being said, and after reading from a certain web site with a $500.00 engine listed. They state that the engines are fitted with a trued crankshaft. So from our Co-Chairs post itself it seems every engine that came from that web site that was bought needs to be disqualified. It doesn’t need to be found to be altered, they advertise it as being altered ! “They have a trued crankshaft”

OR are we going to feel sorry for the people that didn’t read the rule book themselves, and show pity on them for being ignorant ? I love how this country has turned into it is always someone else’s fault. What we are going to do? Change the rule book to allow that along with the other things they did ? Just another good example of there is no rule book.
 

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I like how you can call an engine builder and he will ask if want it to have stuff done to it that they wont find in QSAC tech. Nice a top engine builder with his own web site will cheat up an engine on things he knows wont get checked. Thats nice
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well with that being said, and after reading from a certain web site with a $500.00 engine listed. They state that the engines are fitted with a trued crankshaft. So from our Co-Chairs post itself it seems every engine that came from that web site that was bought needs to be disqualified. It doesn’t need to be found to be altered, they advertise it as being altered ! “They have a trued crankshaft”

OR are we going to feel sorry for the people that didn’t read the rule book themselves, and show pity on them for being ignorant ? I love how this country has turned into it is always someone else’s fault. What we are going to do? Change the rule book to allow that along with the other things they did ? Just another good example of there is no rule book.
So let me see if i read between the lines as well as you do. Are you saying i should call the Hilbers and anyone else and tell them they are DQed because they run engines from that motor builder? Or was it just that engine that was advertised that had that work done to it? And i ask you this question again CHANGE WHAT RULE for what they did? I will try and read between the lines again, are talking about washers? If so THERE WAS NO RULE CHANGE, since we saw it to be no performance gain, we gave this year as a grace period to get them back in compliance after we found out some motor builders had been doing it for years. We felt it would be IGNORANT to dq all of those affected because they had sent their motors in to be worked on because they lack the technical skills to do it themselves.
What is a trued crank anyway, did they add or remove material? or are they advertising a form of how they put the motor back together by aligning the case halfs or something else? Maybe its just a form of advertising. 5 motors got altered last week at ingalls race in post inspection when they got tore down, are they all illegal now to in your eyes?
 

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I think there should be an "engine section" in the QSAC rulebook that states what is ALLOWED to be done to an engine.

Rule #1, If it is NOT stated here in these rules then it cannot be done.

Then after all the rules are printed

Rule #XX If it is NOT stated in the rule above then is is NOT ALLOWED.

Having said this I know that one of the projects that Tony is working on is to "clean up" the Rule Book.
 

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please do share i have ears :thumbsup:
Ok Dave, here is the straight scoop. I take the engine out of the box, add the QSAC plate and the Walbro WK194 carb that QSAC says we run, flip the muffler over then I bolt it in the car and run it. Two years ago I had a engine that stuck a ring. I borrowed a new in the box motor from Randy Baker and bolted it in. By the time the heats were over the ring had broke in and I ended up winning the main. there were a number of people that witnessed this.

There are many ways to cheat, stuffing, porting, shiming, shaving, etc. all the way to just buying a 260 motor and putting 230 stickers on it. It's all good until you get caught. Then your labeled a cheater forever. So even if you legally win in the future people will still believe you cheated. It's just not worth it.

Over the years I've done just about every legal thing I could think of or that I heard about to improve the performance of an engine. Back in the 44 and 70-D engine days there was so much slop in the specifications there were a number of ways to "legally" cheat. Today the specs on the 230's are so tight there is no way to cheat them. Of all the things I've tried the only one that made a marginal, and I mean marginal, difference was to heat the cases and reseat the crank bearings. The cranks like a little play in them. The last two engines I've bought I didn't need to do this. I must also say that I had one or two engines that vibrated so bad I never used them. These are rare today.

Finally, I don't believe in sealer, washers or metal gaskets. if you need sealer on the phenolic block then it was over tightened if If you need sealer anywhere else it wasn't rebuilt correctly. If these items were needed the Zenoha would have included them. They are designed to last the life of the sleeve.
 

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I hear ya Brent.

But I disagree on the sealer on the insulator block, why we call it phenolic I have no idea, phenolic it ain't.

Anyway if the twisted insulator blocks did not have those stupid brass sleeves in them then we would not need sealer. sealer does help to take up the inconsistencies in the blocks.

Washers, I can take em or leave em. I have a new engine with them and an old one without, both run great. The older one does have star washers on the insulator block. and is at least 3 years old and has been teched at at least one NCS race.
 

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I can add that I saw Brent borrow that motor and win with it. These motors we buy today are designed for racing and do not need modifications to make the perform.
As for truing a crank: as I stated in an earlier post and as the rules state you can not add or remove material. Now how do you true a metal piece if you can not grind on it to get it into perfect alignment? Again as I stated in an earlier post these shafts are pressed together. They may be out a degree or two but unless you have a measuring device such as an Indyron that measures the run out accurately, how do you know what you have. Oh I have a lathe and I chuck it up and use a dial indicator. I think not, must lathes in a home environment are not that accurate and even at that, with a three jaw chuck. Give me a break. Now if you do have the proper measuring device and you determine it is out. How do you true it? Twist it, whack it with a hammer or separate the half's and repress it? None of these are really viable options. I have talked with boat racers that have separated the half's. They only did it once because they have a tendency to come apart after be worked in that manner and the bomb going off and sinking the boat is not pretty I'm told. I'm no expert but give this some serious thought. then spend some time on your set up and driving to find that magical tenth you need.
 

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This is why I do my own motors. I know what it has in it and i dont have to worry about it. My sprint car motor is right out of the box from larry cross. The rules are easy to understand and read when your not trying to cheat. Cheaters are always pissed if the are getting beat, and if you win then you have to be cheating. Lol haha nothing is going to change that ever. oh by the way Hankster thanks for closing the other thread today, you saved me a lot of time. It kept me from responding to a few people that will never be happy. I know what I have done for this sport for 22 years exspecially in Indiana. The difference is I do it for free because I love the sport and people.
 

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I can add that I saw Brent borrow that motor and win with it. These motors we buy today are designed for racing and do not need modifications to make the perform.
As for truing a crank: as I stated in an earlier post and as the rules state you can not add or remove material. Now how do you true a metal piece if you can not grind on it to get it into perfect alignment? Again as I stated in an earlier post these shafts are pressed together. They may be out a degree or two but unless you have a measuring device such as an Indyron that measures the run out accurately, how do you know what you have. Oh I have a lathe and I chuck it up and use a dial indicator. I think not, must lathes in a home environment are not that accurate and even at that, with a three jaw chuck. Give me a break. Now if you do have the proper measuring device and you determine it is out. How do you true it? Twist it, whack it with a hammer or separate the half's and repress it? None of these are really viable options. I have talked with boat racers that have separated the half's. They only did it once because they have a tendency to come apart after be worked in that manner and the bomb going off and sinking the boat is not pretty I'm told. I'm no expert but give this some serious thought. then spend some time on your set up and driving to find that magical tenth you need.
Fred, stop writing and get my project done!:wave:
 

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I have been down the route of expensive motors that several “Builders” did for me over my years in QSAC racing. What I have also found is they are basically selling “SNAKE OIL” I paid for a ‘WORKED OVER” engine that I feel cost a lot of extra money that did nothing for me except eat up cash. I sold both of these motors for a lot less than I paid and now run out of the box motors. My advice to any one wanting to waste there money on these types of motors is spend it on tires, better shocks, new body, a good temp gun anything but your motor. When a Builder tells you that he takes apart x amount of motors and then selects all of the”BEST” parts I have a hard time with how does he decide what are the BEST parts, how does he accurately determine what are the best parts to build my expensive motor and give ME an edge over everyone else, even the guys that get there motors from this very same builder…My next question is what happens to all of the not best parts, does this same builder put them together and sell them to some pour racer thinking he is buying a good motor and in reality getting a motor that has been deemed junk by builder x. I question the use of Outerwear’s on these motors, ask yourself when was the last time your pull starter clogged with dirt and was unable to work, there is no Outerwear for the bottom of the engine were most all of the dirt and grass enters your motor from going in the infield, secondly there is a trade off for the air filter Outerwear it restricts a certain amount of air flow into the carb. Outer wears were designed for dirt track racing to aid in keeping those racers from spending a bunch of time cleaning out mud from there filters not to keep dust out, your air filter does that.. Ask your self why does motor builder x install them on every motor he sends out and I can tell you why, it only takes a few seconds to install and I make a bunch of CASH doing it…
As posted earlier fire suit on phone off LOL LOL LOL…
I can honestly say that if a motor of mine got torn down at a NCS race I will just replace it because I would not want to or be able to put iy back together and have it run...
 

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Gee..... lets beat up the motor guys this week. By the way they do make outerwears for the bottom end. I build motors to help people and i don't promise anything......flame on
 

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I hear ya Mike! Put a price on a web site and game on I guess. I only offer the cars, motors and peripherals to try and help people get items they need to promote the sport. Definitely not doing it for the money! When I got into 1/4 scale I found it very hard to get all the parts I needed. Wasn't sure where to go. I am just trying to offer a place where they can get the car and parts they need without having to go to several places. Not sure why they feel like they have to slam any certain motor. As I have said before, it is just an option! Nobody is forcing anyone to buy this motor or a certain car or parts. I think it is awesome to have options. That's why I like living in the USA! Freedom of choice. Everyone on here makes choices about all the things they buy. Doesn't mean it is a bad choice because you have an opinion about it. They weighed the differences and made a decision. End of story. Now can we move on and enjoy 1/4 scale racing? I sure hope so!!!

Steve McClintock
 

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The rule book should be considered a living breathing document. What I mean by that is if the engine manufacturers change something on the engine (washers)the rule book should reflect the change. Obviously QS doesn't have the power to dictate to the engine mfg the needs of QS.They must have had an issue with the lack of washers otherwise they wouldn't have added them (more cost).
 
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