I like your mods so far. I will be watching to see how this turns out.
Dragonslayer re-do
I was very excited to get the Dragonslayer Vermithrax model. I've wanted a kit since I saw the film on it's original release. The few resin kits are great, but VERY pricey. Overall, the Pegasus kit is great and they are to be commended for releasing the subject at a price I can afford- still, I have a few reservations. (Which I will attempt to address over this build)
First off, it's made of too-soft vinyl. I'd happily pay a few bucks more for the harder vinyl used in the old Horizon or Biliken kits. They were much easier to work with in my opinion. Overall the fit is excellent and the seams are minor.
I puttied over my seams with ALVES epoxy putty and used a texture stamp and a moist toothpick to add back the skin detail.
The dragon sculpt is good, but differs from the actual screen-dragon in a few areas. The nose appears slightly short. (The animation model had a much longer lower jaw- the full-sized dragon did not) The model is also missing the multitudes of body horns. (Probably a molding problem) Animator Phil Tippet said the animation model was hard to position as it was so "prickly." Tippet wanted a smoother-skinned dragon, but the design was set. I extended the jaws slightly with putty and enlarged the nose horn very slightly.
I rolled lots of little horns out of Alves and super-glued them in small holes I made with the point of an Xacto-blade rotated on the model. I used both still photos of the full-size head and watched the film for reference. I also built out the spikes on the jaw "fins." Next I plan to paint the mouth and then add the missing, "dewlap" under the jaw.
First off, it's made of too-soft vinyl. I'd happily pay a few bucks more for the harder vinyl used in the old Horizon or Biliken kits. They were much easier to work with in my opinion. Overall the fit is excellent and the seams are minor.
I puttied over my seams with ALVES epoxy putty and used a texture stamp and a moist toothpick to add back the skin detail.
The dragon sculpt is good, but differs from the actual screen-dragon in a few areas. The nose appears slightly short. (The animation model had a much longer lower jaw- the full-sized dragon did not) The model is also missing the multitudes of body horns. (Probably a molding problem) Animator Phil Tippet said the animation model was hard to position as it was so "prickly." Tippet wanted a smoother-skinned dragon, but the design was set. I extended the jaws slightly with putty and enlarged the nose horn very slightly.
I rolled lots of little horns out of Alves and super-glued them in small holes I made with the point of an Xacto-blade rotated on the model. I used both still photos of the full-size head and watched the film for reference. I also built out the spikes on the jaw "fins." Next I plan to paint the mouth and then add the missing, "dewlap" under the jaw.
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I too am in the middle of this kit. I had a misshapen spear and called Pegasus. they shipped one out quickly without cost. nice guys there.
Your dragon is looking good!.
Your dragon is looking good!.
As a primer I used RUSTOLEUM AUTOMOBILE SANDABLE GRAY PRIMER from Walmart, applied in several thin coats. I had no sticky issues with this primer.(oddly- Kylon FUSION for plastic-vinyl was very sticky on a test piece) I will paint the final colors with acrylic craft paints.
I am not planning on using the excellent figure. Is is either too large or the Dragon too small. The full-sized Dragon was 45 ft in length. Photos of the actors with the full-sized prop show just how much bigger the model would have to be to be accurate. The full-sized head and neck was 16ft long. Place the Galen figure on the model's neck and you can easily see it it too large a figure. A 1/48th scale figure would appear be much closer to the screen-version.
I am not planning on using the excellent figure. Is is either too large or the Dragon too small. The full-sized Dragon was 45 ft in length. Photos of the actors with the full-sized prop show just how much bigger the model would have to be to be accurate. The full-sized head and neck was 16ft long. Place the Galen figure on the model's neck and you can easily see it it too large a figure. A 1/48th scale figure would appear be much closer to the screen-version.
It is looking good. All those little spikes you did yourself? That's a bunch of teeny tiny work there. Have you built any other Pegasus models? The WOW Martian from the 1953 movie was vinyl and many of their figures are vinyl. I also had initially used Krylon primer on the Martian and it stayed tacky for a couple of days. I then over sprayed it with the Rustoleum and that solved the problem. Looking forward to your progress on this model.
rkoenn,
I have built the Pegasus Space Ark, I have most of their kits, with the exception of the Relic and WOW Martian. I have the WOW tripod, but as yet have not built it.
Today I finished adding the small horns to the spine and body, painted the mouth interior, and started a new base. I traced the kit base on a piece of scrap MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) and then cut an irregular shape slightly larger. I used some polyurethane I had to seal the base and protect it from the work to come.
I have built the Pegasus Space Ark, I have most of their kits, with the exception of the Relic and WOW Martian. I have the WOW tripod, but as yet have not built it.
Today I finished adding the small horns to the spine and body, painted the mouth interior, and started a new base. I traced the kit base on a piece of scrap MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) and then cut an irregular shape slightly larger. I used some polyurethane I had to seal the base and protect it from the work to come.
Excellent work. VERY inspiring!! I will anxiously be following this thread!!
Worked a bit more on the base today. I glued some thick, scrap Styrofoam to the base with Aileen's Sticky glue. A very thick white glue available at craft stores and Walmart. The base has to be thick as I want to show the crevasse
the dragon emerges from. I used a foam cutting tool to cut the pieces to size.
Tomorrow it will look much better! Not shown is the dragon getting his base coat of color- Nutmeg brown for the body and Burnt Sienna for the wings. An airbrush was most useful here.
I have attached a two B&W photos from the Cinefex article which show the patterns on the Dragon's skin. They are hard-edged and I will do them with a brush. One thing else the kit misses totally is the skin texture. The actual models and full-size prop show a baggy, iguana-like skin with many folds. This would be a major redo in anyone's book.
the dragon emerges from. I used a foam cutting tool to cut the pieces to size.
Tomorrow it will look much better! Not shown is the dragon getting his base coat of color- Nutmeg brown for the body and Burnt Sienna for the wings. An airbrush was most useful here.
I have attached a two B&W photos from the Cinefex article which show the patterns on the Dragon's skin. They are hard-edged and I will do them with a brush. One thing else the kit misses totally is the skin texture. The actual models and full-size prop show a baggy, iguana-like skin with many folds. This would be a major redo in anyone's book.
Painting has begun in earnest as I am racing to have the model ready for the Memphis King Con show this Saturday. I will post shots as I can and will make the final post after Saturday. Tonight did most of the basic painting.
I used Apple Barrel Craft paints. Nutmeg brown was the main body color and Burnt Sienna was used for the wings. Next I painted a squigley black pattern over the wings with my airbrush. (Photo to come) This was then misted over with the Burnt Sienna giving it an irregular, splotchy look that's very organic.
I gave the kit a was of Burnt Umber to deepen the details and drybrushed some areas with a lighter, yellow-brown. I mixed a dark olive-drab from yellow and black paint. This is my splotchy pattern color which will be on the spine and over the limbs and tail. (see photos from the film) Tomorrow I will apply dry-wall material to the base to shape the limestone cliffs.
I used Apple Barrel Craft paints. Nutmeg brown was the main body color and Burnt Sienna was used for the wings. Next I painted a squigley black pattern over the wings with my airbrush. (Photo to come) This was then misted over with the Burnt Sienna giving it an irregular, splotchy look that's very organic.
I gave the kit a was of Burnt Umber to deepen the details and drybrushed some areas with a lighter, yellow-brown. I mixed a dark olive-drab from yellow and black paint. This is my splotchy pattern color which will be on the spine and over the limbs and tail. (see photos from the film) Tomorrow I will apply dry-wall material to the base to shape the limestone cliffs.
Painting has begun in earnest as I am racing to have the model ready for the Memphis King Con show this Saturday. I will post shots as I can and will make the final post after Saturday. Tonight did most of the basic painting.
I used Apple Barrel Craft paints. Nutmeg brown was the main body color and Burnt Sienna was used for the wings. Next I painted a squigley black pattern over the wings with my airbrush. (Photo to come) This was then misted over with the Burnt Sienna giving it an irregular, splotchy look that's very organic.
I gave the kit a wash of Burnt Umber to deepen the details and dry-brushed some areas with a lighter, yellow-brown. I mixed a dark olive-drab from yellow and black paint. This is my splotchy pattern color which will be on the spine and over the limbs and tail. (see photos from the film) I painted the horns with a mixture of Antique White and Golden Yellow, then washed them with a weak mixture of Nutmeg Brown. Tomorrow I will apply dry-wall material to the base to shape the limestone cliffs.
I used Apple Barrel Craft paints. Nutmeg brown was the main body color and Burnt Sienna was used for the wings. Next I painted a squigley black pattern over the wings with my airbrush. (Photo to come) This was then misted over with the Burnt Sienna giving it an irregular, splotchy look that's very organic.
I gave the kit a wash of Burnt Umber to deepen the details and dry-brushed some areas with a lighter, yellow-brown. I mixed a dark olive-drab from yellow and black paint. This is my splotchy pattern color which will be on the spine and over the limbs and tail. (see photos from the film) I painted the horns with a mixture of Antique White and Golden Yellow, then washed them with a weak mixture of Nutmeg Brown. Tomorrow I will apply dry-wall material to the base to shape the limestone cliffs.
great thread. keep coming with the updates!
Today I gave the base two coats of Drywall compound applied with a putty knife. Just ice it up like a horrible wedding cake, keeping it thin so it will dry.
The second coat had black acrylic paint added. When it had set a few minutes I took a piece of aluminum foil and crumpled it up, the un-crumpled it and pushed it into the hardening drywall, gave it some rock-like texture. I also used a crummy brush to add striations to the rock. I will give it overnight to dry and do some more tomorrow.
Shown are the dragon wings after painting the a for-mentioned squiggly pattern and after painting a light coat of the wing color back. The photos I shot of the dragon in progress looked bad- will shoot in daylight tomorrow.
The paint job is coming along nicely.
The second coat had black acrylic paint added. When it had set a few minutes I took a piece of aluminum foil and crumpled it up, the un-crumpled it and pushed it into the hardening drywall, gave it some rock-like texture. I also used a crummy brush to add striations to the rock. I will give it overnight to dry and do some more tomorrow.
Shown are the dragon wings after painting the a for-mentioned squiggly pattern and after painting a light coat of the wing color back. The photos I shot of the dragon in progress looked bad- will shoot in daylight tomorrow.
The paint job is coming along nicely.
That is coming along nicely. The foil gives a good effect.
Just a quick post before I begin today's work. Here is the Dragon at this point.
Lots to do yet.
Lots to do yet.
very enjoyable thread! Thanks!
Buc
Buc
Will take the finished product to King Con Memphis Model show tomorrow.
(couldn't make Wonderfest) Pleased with the base. One frustration is the model will not sit flat. I cut the pegs off the legs and wings and one foot is up in the air- had to go back and add a rock for the foot to sit on! Photos will be posted tomorrow of the finished model.:wave:
(couldn't make Wonderfest) Pleased with the base. One frustration is the model will not sit flat. I cut the pegs off the legs and wings and one foot is up in the air- had to go back and add a rock for the foot to sit on! Photos will be posted tomorrow of the finished model.:wave:
Looking great Nautilusnut.
I'll be picking one of these beauties up when I can. Very cool kit...
Chris.
I'll be picking one of these beauties up when I can. Very cool kit...
Chris.
Ok, the model show's over and the kit's done. I did the final piece of painting on the base this morning at 7am, coloring the rock that had to be placed under the dragon's foot. Not too much competition at the show, but had a good time. Vermithrax took best figure and 1st place. Had quite a few ask about the kit. My personal pride is I started this project on Monday-
1st photo is finished base with pole made from ALVES. Real chain with paper manacles.
1st photo is finished base with pole made from ALVES. Real chain with paper manacles.
Love this kit. Just picked it yesterday downstairs.
Congrats on the win yesterday. I got 5 merits with 10 models at Wonderfest but no actual medal places. I saw this at the Pegasus table and spoke with the guy about their MLEV scifi kit which likely will never be released.
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