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Testors decal bonding spray (9200) always worked well for me, used it on Testors inkjet decal papers for years.

For it to work the best I would let the ink dry overnight, then spray a light coat on and let dry for half a day, then another light coat and let that dry for at least a day, usually 2 days. Doing that I never had any ink run on me when applying the decals.

The Testors rattle can is some kind of lacquer, never looked up what kind since I never had to replace the one 3 oz. can I got.

I've since switched to a laser printer at home so don't need to seal those decals. Of course I had to buy new sheets to print on since the plastic films used on most inkjet papers can damage a laser printer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Testors Products is not sold i Norway. What about Microsol Decal film ?
 

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Testors Products is not sold i Norway. What about Microsol Decal film ?

That should work as well. I've never used on decals I've printed myself, I have used it on old decals to keep them from falling apart. The product works very well. You might want to test it on a sample printed decal. Like was stated above, I would wait for the decal ink to set for 24 hours before coating.
 

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Any waterproof clear coat that can be sprayed on should work.

Looking at the MSDS sheet for the Testors stuff it says lacquer. So any clear spray lacquer should be the same.

What ever you use it needs to be sprayed on in thin coats or else the solvent will make the ink run. But different inkjet inks respond differently to different solvents to you'd have to test if you want to try a brushed on clear coat.

One thing to watch out for is if you cut the decal on or very close to a printed area water can seep into the edge, so if you are going to cut into the printed area cut the paper first and then spray the clear coat so the edges get sealed.
 

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I had just the opposite result with Testors Fixative. On my list of "one of the 100 ways things can go wrong with homegrown decals." After using the Testors Fix for the first 10 or so runs of decals I had to get more paper, ink and fix just about at the same time. The paper and fixative were Testors. Ink at that time was some kind of Epson. For some reason when I sprayed the Testors Fix on the paper after drying 24 hours (I used to do that back then.) the image bled. I've also had the Testors Fixative fog. I've used Krylon Clear since. Testors made good on the paper. I had one pack of paper that, best we could figure, had no film on the paper. They made good on that too. I still use Testors paper.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
About decal paper - saving decal paper. I watched a video where he first printed out on common paper what it should be. He cut the decal paper enough to cover it. Then he glued the decal paper over the print (same Place) and printed again. Very smart I think ! Any thoughts about this ?
 

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I'll print several 1/64th'ish sets of decals for several different cars on a 5x7 format. The printer I have now inverts the paper as it is printed. Don't know who thought that was a good idea. Remembering to turn the printed side down in the tray is a screw-up waiting to happen.
 

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In the UK/Scotland I use enamel gloss spray varnish to seal my decals on the inkjet decal film after letting the decals sit for a day first,I have no problems using micro sol and set after they are in position,left to dry off for another 24 hours and then a final coat of varnish of your choice depending on the model its attached to,Army Painter Matt or Halfords Gloss,

cheers
Gordon
 
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