[Magesblood]

 

[djnick66]

If you wet sand with some black 320 wet and dry paper (don't need anything like 200 grit wood paper) you won't have any issue. The glue isnt really bringing the letters back, rather just smoothing out the fuzz from the heavy sanding. Sort of like if you dip a scratchy canopy or clear part in Future... The clear part is suddenly a whole lot clearer although physically it has not changed.

 

[Magesblood]

it's just what I happened to be using this time.

You can sand and sand and sand and the copyright will come back when you paint. (When I paint anyway)

oh, and I've even used polishing paper on the surface and the copyright came back. The surface was mirror-smooth.

 

[BrianM]

...remember the good old days, when that stuff wasn't visible on a models exterior? What's next, product placement?

 

[PerfesserCoffee]

I've gone through the same thing: no matter how much you sand, you still wind up with visible letters. What I've found out is this method recommended for removing the grid lines from a the 18" STOS AMT 1701 model:

You need to use a razor (safer to have it in a holder such as a scraper) and scrape away the top of the letters to the point that they're nearly down to the same level as the rest of the surface. (Hold the blade so that you're not cutting into but pulling along the top a little less than perpendicular.)

After that, sand with some fine paper.

It's really frustrating because there's no reason they can't put the copyright markings ON THE INSIDE of one of the pieces.

 

[Magesblood]

thing is, there is the Polar Lights' copyright for themselves on the inside.

 

[Trek Ace]

As I understand it, there is a difference between how licensors view model kits. A "glue" kit is a model - a display piece, and therefore the copyright appears on the inside of the part. However, a "snap" kit is regarded as a toy, and toys must have the copyright notice visible on the outside.

I have built several of the snap Enterprise kits, and none of the copyright notices are visible once removed, primed and painted.

 

[djnick66]

As I understand it, there is a difference between how licensors view model kits. A "glue" kit is a model - a display piece, and therefore the copyright appears on the inside of the part. However, a "snap" kit is regarded as a toy, and toys must have the copyright notice visible on the outside.

I have built several of the snap Enterprise kits, and none of the copyright notices are visible once removed, primed and painted.

Not true... and Revell puts their notice on the outside on all of their kits. Airfix on the inside... go figure.

 

[LGFugate]

There's a very good reason that the copyright information is where it is - the Licensor required it to be there! :freak: The Licensee has two choices at that point - do as the Licensor requires, or don't make the kit.

PL was very helpful when the Star Trek 1/1000th scale kits came out with information on how to remove the copyright.

Larry

 

[aric]

You SHOULD just be able to sand it smooth and be done with it, but I think the plastic is different at the copyright. Its either that the plastic was hotter there or more pressure pressure was used in that part of the mold, making a denser plastic. It like removing a stamp mark on metal, the metal around the stamp is changed. Plastic isn't stamped though so I'm a bit stumped

I think the liquid cement is doing more than making it smooth or shiny. The cement melts the plastic a bit. If there is any difference in plastic the cement will show it as it reacts a bit differently on each density of plastic. This is probably why multiple applications of the cement works, you're actually making a new layer of plastic over the copyright

OR, I could just be a candidate for a Tinfoil hat.

 

[MadCap Romanian]

Cross sand, primer, sand again and re-primer. Worked on mine!