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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is that fairly fool proof if done right.

I am being coerced into making my 4x8 into a fold up track and will have to attach the track some way and I might as well try the standard approach of nailing even though I have my reservations.


If nailed right does track maintain connectivity?

Also, how would you remove or take back out the nailed down track? My thought is to make it so you can pound up the nails from the bottom side but that would be unnattractive and dangerous.
 

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POUNDING nails through plstic track will probably render more broken track than not.
I would suggest making a slight bevel in the plastic at the location you want to secure it and using small bevel head Phillips wood screws to anchor the pieces to the base.
 

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Before nailing or screwing your track down, locate a thread started by ROLLS (maybe in the track building forum?) on how a track can be screwed down from the underside. A very interesting technique.

Joe
 

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Screwing it down works the best. If you don't want to drill holes the you could try hot glue or rubber cement. Both of those remove pretty easily should you decide to change your track plan.
 

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What kind of track are you using? (Aurora L&J, AFX, L/L, Tomy, Tyco)
I had a Tomy layout that was secured with #1 x 1/2" counter sunk screws.
Screws offer some adjustment while nails can loosen from track surface
or be difficult to remove. I had purchased 1,000 screws for my layout
and used about 600 so I have some available.
 

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Nailing a track down isn't like building a shelf or a wall.. The tails are TINY. They're called pin nails, and come in small packs of maybe 100. Most newer track is somewhat flexible. Use these small nails and a small hammer. A small nail set is a big help, so you don't accidentally hit the track from an uneven hammer strike. In additin to, or in place of, nailing down the track, you can use clear silicone adhesive caulk, like the stuff they use to put up tub surrounds. Comes out white, but dries clear and can usually be painted if so desired. I haven't seen screws small enough to use through the top without enlarging the holes. And I haven't read the other post about screwing from underneath. probably works awesome if done right. If you caulk, then decide to change the layout, use a razor to separate the track from the board, just a score mark. Then slide a 4 or 6 inch paint scraper between the board and track and wiggle it up and down till the track comes up. The scraper works just as well for pulling up a nailed down track. If it's really stuck, slide a masonry trowel between the wood and scraper, and wiggle that up and down. I've used both of these methods, and they hold up great. Plywood must be used though, not particle board or wafer board/OSB. They both have too much glue in them for the nails to hold tight, especially if the board has some give and flexes a bit. Any questions, PM me, and good luck.
 

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Of all the track mounting solutions, Rolls' idea appears to be the best. Set your track with all the connections good and straight. Mark the track hole locations. Move the track and drill the holes. Reposition the track and screw up from under the table into the track mounts. Having someone topside to hold the track down is essential though!!

I've had a wild idea bouncing around in my head for a screw specifically for mounting Tomy track, using a set screw concept. This screw would be designed like a wood screw externally, but use an allen wrench to install. Drill a small pilot hole in the table, and then insert the pointy end in the track and wrench it down until flush or just below track height. One of those wacky sit down and drink my coffee in the morning brainstorm ideas. I don't know if such a screw exists, but if it does, it might just be the easiest way to mount Tomy track without dealing with screw heads or nails.
 

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My table surface is MDF which is easy to drill into & accepts screws very well.
I thought the screw size to be #1, but in checking I have a note for my records that they are #"O" x 1/2 inch.
They're countersunk & slotted, probably too small for philips.
For installation, I countersunk the Tomy track hole with a 1/32nd bit set in a pin vise and protruding 1/32 inch.
I drilled into table using a #63 bit (.037") & installed screw. The screws can help differences in track
joint alignment by loosening/tightening as needed.
 

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If you need to peel the track up, home improvements stores sell a tiny little 6 inch long flat prybar that's used for removing interior trim.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank for the replies.

The track is LL.


So now I see that nailing is not considered the standard.



Those are all good ideas, I will have to figure out what will work out best for this track.
 

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One thing to keep in mind, if the room this track is in has wild temperature swings (basement, garage, etc) however you attach it needs to give for expansion/contraction.
 
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