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What would be the best type of model cement, cyanoacrilate, or other bonding agent to use on a Lighted Yamaguchi model. I want to avoid some problems in the past I have had with the glue destroying the clear plastic used in Ertl starship kits. Any ideas? :confused:
 

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I'm working on the same model now by combining the gray injection molded enterpise "C" kit with the clear Yamigucci. I plan just to use the clear hull parts with the window sections. I will be using testers liquid cement to glue the structures together. Mayby white glues or medium AC glue on the lighted clear parts.

What I am doing now is masking the ports and windows prior to assembly, then opaqueing it with primer paints. Since I'll be using Testers liquid cement I'll need to scrap paint away from the seams before gluing. I find the liquid cements give the strongest bonds.


DLM
 

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Testors does sell a glue specifically for clear parts. White glue works well as long as the part doesn't have too much stress applied to it. Any other ideas guys?
 

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veedubb67 said:
Testors does sell a glue specifically for clear parts. White glue works well as long as the part doesn't have too much stress applied to it.
The Testors clear-parts glue/window maker is probably just watered-down Elmer's white glue, or something similar, as far as I can tell. I've used it a lot, but wouldn't want to rely on it for major component joining. If I ever get around to building my Yamaguchi, I'll probably use CA (super) glue.
 

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If you use Tenax (or, I assume, Pro-weld), you should be able to use the capilliary principle to put small amounts of glue where you need it without damaging the clear parts. If you use CA, use the same capilliary principle - it's just harder to apply since you can't keep using the same brush and a toothpick doesn't hold very much glue. Personally, I wouldn't try dropping CA into seams straight from the bottle.

Tenax and a regular 0 - 10/0 brush will give you better control and only apply glue to the joints. Any over spill is easy to sand off and polish.

Jim
 

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If the part fits tightly, or with close precision, you can use Future floor wax as an adhesive. i've done it on a few Polar Lights B9 bubbles. It helps hide the seam too.
 

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Ignatz said:
For applying CA glues, I like to dip the point of a no. 11 X-acto knife into a puddle of CA and then touching the point to the parts seam. But CA can fog the clear styrene.
I read on an earlier thread that if you keep it in a ventilated area for a week or so and that won't happen to the clear styrene. Just need to keep some air movement going so the fumes don't pool and craze the clear parts. . rr
 
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