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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Recently I have set aside building wooden airplanes and went back to building plastic models. I am desperately tryin to learn all the techniques I can to make my projects as realistic as possible. Last night I stumbled across something that I hadnt given thought to before.

What do you do about chrome parts? I mean they have to be cut from the tree and when I do that... it leaves a small spot of the underlying colored plastic exposed. What should be done about that? Is there some sort of trick so that the underlying coloring doesnt stick out like a sore thumb? I have read that some places will rechrome parts for you, however I dont really want to go to that extreme IF I can avoid it.

Help please.

Jared
 

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This is the BEST way to handle that old CHROME parts nightmare!

Remove that silly looking factory chrome all together and paint on the the best looking finish you will ever see!

(airbrush required)

1. Use a ziplock bag large enough hold the chrome parts tree and spray the OVEN cleaner all over the parts (use plenty...the more the better ) depending on the age of the kit and the method used at the factory the old chrome finish will be history in 30 minutes to one hour....maybe longer.

2. Next...use your wife's, mums or girlfriend's best vinyl kitchen gloves and remove the parts from the bag and rinse them thourghly and wash with dish soap.

3. After they dry you can remove the parts 'like normal' and sand down those ugly attatchment points.

Now for the cool part! There is a product out there called Alclad II chrome paint is AWESOME! its easy to airbrush ( no thinning needed ) and you just need to paint it on a pre-painted enamel GLOSS black finish....They recomend thier own black gloss but I have no good results with it and found that the Testors Boyd high gloss black works very well! If you like the Humbro paints that is ok as well....any gloss 'enamel' gloss will work.

Here is the Alclad site...you can get the paints at most fine Hobby Shops.
http://www.alclad2.com/

I used this method on a contract build of the old Aurora Chitty Bang Bang car's bonet and Man I tell you its worth it! If you do not own an airbrush see if you can barrow one from a friend or have that person do it for ya. No buffing is needed at all!

Hope this helps! Now please excuse me...I gotta find an acorn.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hey wow thats interesting. Though I believe it because I have seen what coke will do to real automotive finishes
 

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Hey! That is cool! .....but what if your a Dr. pepper kinda dude? I wonder if it has the same effect?
 

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I do believe it's the carbonated water in the soda that does it. ( carbonic acid ?)
In my former pharmacy days they gave Coke syrup ( from the soda fountain, without soda water) for stomach ills.
Dr. Dabbler

However, there may be a bit of citric acid as an ingredient involved too. And they DO use that as a cleaner nowadays.
 

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fluke said:
Hey! That is cool! .....but what if your a Dr. pepper kinda dude? I wonder if it has the same effect?
Also, what are the possible modeling applications of Diet Coke and Menthos?

...And it makes me wonder...
-Led Zeppelin
 

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I think diet Coke would reduce your model by one or two scale factors !!???
 

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I use Pine-Sol, or store brand Pine cleaner to soak my chrome parts. It might take a couple of days, soaking in a closed jar. They come out smelling like pine sap, but not sticky.LOL
 
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