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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I have raced for a couple months and it is pretty competitive where I am at. Most guys give bits if what needs done and how to setup your car. Everyone had to learn sometime and I am hoping to get educated by a few of you guys. One I know practice is the key to getting the ca to drive like you want however I am getting spanked by members a lot of time running high 5 sec to low 6 sec runs. I run on a Oval Carpet Flat Track. Not sure what straight aways measure but manager told me centerline accross the track end to end is 175 feet. Most guys are running low 5 sec runs. I am not scrubbing the wal and even can follow the same line as the fast guys. Some are turning 4.9 sec laps and several 5.1 laps my best is 5.5 usually with most upper 5's. I feel I have some setup issues and cannot get a clear answer to gear ratios and no one even discusses the importance of rollout if any to me. I think I need to get a better tire diameter and gear setup. A lot of the fast guys run cut down tires but then say its a waste do not cut them down to me. I run standard Jaco Pink Rears and a Pink Left and Purple Front all factory diameter. I run a 100 tooth 64 pitch spur gear and have tried from 32 - 45 pinions and have little luck gaining speed even when geared higher. I would like to see if some one can recommend a good gear ratio as well as explain rollout and the importance. Also cut down tires compared to uncut tires.

Sorry for all the questions and NO I do not expect to run as fast as the experienced guys but I cannot comprehend why even if I follow them perfectly during a lap and I am talking right behind on same path why the almost pull away at a fairly fast rate.

We had a newbie a few weeks back with the same issue and a experience guy set his car up for him and now he is placing 2nd and 3rd a lot and scrubs the walls a lot but is fast. Of course no one wants to let go of thier secrets but if some one could help a guy out even via PM would be appreciated.

Thanks Guys
 

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I'm not sure where you race, but at most places guys are more than willing to help out anyone. You'll find most everyone on here is that way.

Before anyone will be able to help we'll need to know what class you are racing.
 
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Some tracks have rules in Spec Class that limit what battery, motor or gearing can be used. Go as far as the rules permit by first changing the method you charge and discharge the battery, try a higher rate to see if that produces better results. Maintain the motor properly try doing a skim cut on truer even if comm looks good there may be inperfections that rob power - brushes can be cleaned or reserrated a couple of times.

When it comes to gearing - that is where no one can give a specfic answer. Normally guys will say for instance try this 1.99 to 2.05 or someone else will say try a 2.08 (rollout). Thing is tracks sizes are different, no two motors ever produce the same power, driving styles are different and no matter how close you can get things - the end results are never identical. Sometimes even going a tooth or more lower might be the key to seeing more speed.

Most of us true tires to a certain diameter for several reasons, less sidewall flex, tires tend to chunk less, chassis is lowered and more planted.

For a known rollout for a track, to find pinion do the following
rollout x spur divided by tire dia divided by PI
2.05 x 116 div by 2.25 div by 3.14 =33.658 or between a 33 to 34 tooth pinion.

For stock on flat I used Jaco LF Gray, RF Black, LR White, RR Gray traction compound to the whole rear tire, LF 1/4 to 3/4, RF 1/4 to 1/2 depending on steering. The 3 pink and purple are more for 19turn or mod but that setup may work on your track.
 

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if you post more specific like what track it is, car your running, is there a tire rule in the class battery and motor. i'm sure theres a million guys on here willing to give you a hand. post that stuff and i'll shoot you a p.m. with a setup.... talk to ya soon
Brad Sousa
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Finishline racing products
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Yep, we just need a little more info and we can have you flying. I agree that the tire combo you are running is a little off. A few questions-

What chassis
What Body (Truck, car?)
What motor/brush rules
Is there a tire rule
Is the 175' the run line? That is a key question. Or maybe what track others may know.

I know some dont like this, but I give it to all the new guys. It really helped me understand a few things when I got back into the hobby. http://www.iroaronline.org/dannyb.html

Joel White
 

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If the centerline of the track was wheeled out at 175' then the actual runline is probably going to be lower. For instance the asphalt track by me wheels out at 285' centerline with an approx runline of 268' feet. Some people run lower in the straights than others same with the straightaway. So everybody's runline is going to be slightly different.

When I would travel to a new track I would take my wheel measurer (you can find them cheap at places like Marc's or online at Harbor Freight) and measure the black groove around the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok I guess I need to understand the runline is it the straight aways if so they are about 125 feet I need to get a wheel measurer to be 100% sure

What chassis and What Body (Truck, car?): I Have 3 Spec Cars for Different Classes
Associated L4 for NasTruck Spec Class running Ford F150 Body
GForce For Regular Spec Class Running Dodge Charger Body
Hyperdrive 0700 Running A Dodge Charger Body

What motor/brush rules
21 Turn Trinity Spec Motor Can run any brush or spring and can groove brushes also can set timing to 12 degrees if not already if at 12 degrees can not modify the can.

Is there a tire rule
No tire rules we can run any combination of foam tires and can true tires and resize to any diameter tire wheel will allow.

Is the 175' the run line? Not sure if its the straight away its about 125 feet if its the center of the track all the way around I am figuring about 300-325 feet. The fast guys run 5 to 5.2 sec laps pretty consistant
 
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The runline is the general race line around the track that is considered the fast way around. This is usually about the middle to right next to outside wall and right down as close as you can for the turns barely nipping any boudary marker.
For the L4 setup try this:
Left Front: Wolfe or Beefy Long Kingpin two spacer on top w 3 washers for preload kit,w/beefy Teal, suspension arm middle outter hole, spacers one in front, one rear start with zero camber increase to half degree to no more than 2 degrees positive, zero caster. Jaco Gray or RC4less Cream
Right Front: wolfe kingpin, black washer one on top/other below w/3 washers, beefy green spring, suspension arm mounted middle inner hole, spacers both in front (2degree caster), camber negative starting with 1 degree to 2 degrees at most.
Camber check: I compress each front to determine how much tire deflects or looses contact with surface and adjust so tire maintains full contact when cornering.

Center shock - TC3 Threaded Team shock w/#1 piston, 40 wt shock oil, very little preload - use a Darkside shock mount with the 3 hole.
Side shocks 30 wt oil in both, but I use the Irrang High tall Ball Studs on cross brace and normal on pod plate. The higher angle makes movement more precise.
Left side- used Gold Reedy spring, Jaco white, or RC4less white
Right side - uses Blue Reedy spring Jaco Gray or RC4less Cream
Number 2 axle or Kimbrough adapter used.
Axle spacers Left Rear 1/4 inch, 2 BRP shim on right
Rear pod 2 black spacer w/1 1/4 washer on top.
Tweak set starting with 12.3 oz on scale to 12.8 at most with chassis loaded in race trim (battery/motor installed) left rear drops 1/8 inch more than right rear.
Battery tray (switched to the Silva Concepts) start with 3rd hole from rear, may be 4th hole on the AE tray, with battery pack all the way out. When space available mount lead weight(if chassis under required wt), receiver,esc to battery tray for more left side weight bias. To fine tune some handling move tray forward one hole for more steering or back, or try adjusting camber or tweak.

Chassis setup should be the same or close with others, or it might need small changes for your track and driving style.
 
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