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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all - I'm new to this forum - I've done several smaller models - Movie Monsters, and Doctor Who, mostly.

I'm very excited with starting on the C-57D space cruiser from Forbidden Planet.

Those of you familiar with this model will know that it's rather huge, and here we go with my question -

There are massive seams between the sections of the saucer pieces. Wondering advice for good seam filler for plastic models. I really want to make the seams invisible under the paint.

Thanks!
 

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Oxidation Genius
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Welcome!
Hey guys, there's a girl in the clubhouse!! :D

Seams like that are probably a modelers greatest challenge! I've never been good at it.
There are people better then me who'll help you, but my basic suggestions for seam filler material are either a thick gap-filling superglue, or an epoxy putty like Aves Apoxy-Sculpt. They're more likely to sand smoothly than the lesser putties, like Squadron Green (which always shrinks).
 

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Hi Miranda and Welcome to the BB!

I agree with John P that you will want to use a putty that you can sand and it not get all gummed up...

AVES Apoxy Sculpt would be good for this large job!

Squadron seems to shrink so I only use it for small jobs.

That is a HUGE kit!

Make sure you post pics if you get the chance and share with us how you are doing with it...

Bob aka MMM
 

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Welcome to the fourms.

First thing I would try is to sand down areas and reduce the height of the gap. If you need filler, try using Tamyia grey putty or some autovotive types. Avoid Squadron white or green putty at all costs! :D
 

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Ive always had great luck with the Tamiya putty - hard to find now around here.
w
Welcome to the forums and enjoy!
Steve
 

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Hi, and welcome!
Make sure you use good old testors glue for the large parts. Dont want them seems cracking down the road from the weight of the thing. Reinforcing the undersides of the large seems with some thick sheet styrene (and lots of testors) wouldn't hurt.
 

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Like I said before Tamiya Basic (Grey) putty was discontinued a year ago. There is a replacement but I have not used it. Aparently it is not as good.

On the C-57 I would consider applying a thin layer of putty well around the seams and then sanding it all smooth. This should help eliminate the scallop effect that you can get between sections, and eliminate any mold sink marks on the outer hull left over from molding.

I probably would not use much gap filling CA glue at least on the exterior areas. The reason being is that when it is fully cured (fairly quickly) it becomes much harder than the surrounding plastic. Trying to remove the CA off the exterior surface will just result in you sanding the plastic away and leaving the hard glue. This is obviously a kit that is going to take a lot of time and effort in the sanding department.

Its too bad when Round 2 reissued this clunker they didnt tool two new parts for an upper and lower hull, like the Moebius Jupiter 2. It would have made the model a whole lot easier to build.
 

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Welcome to the forum, Miranda - Good question. Those seams and how to fix them are the reason mine is still untouched in its box :freak:
 

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Welcome, Miranda!
If you can't locate AVES Apoxy Sculpt, personally, I find that Squadron WHITE putty, applied to seams, and swabbed while fresh with a Q-tip soaked in nailpolish remover, does a fine job in filling. After it has dried completely, sandpaper with 3 sheets of increasingly smaller grained sandpaper, rinse with warm running water, dry it, and apply a little more putty to the areas where the putty has shrunk into while it was setting.
Any missed areas will be apparent after your primer spray paint has dried.
Avoid Squadron GREEN putty because of very serious shrinkage (and cracking months later) issues that are minimal with the WHITE putty.
:wave:
 

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"Like I said before Tamiya Basic (Grey) putty was discontinued a year ago"
No it has not. It is still in production but not available in the u.s.
you can get it from hobby link japan

http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87053
Yes that is true but for the average person just going to a shop and picking it up, its discontinued.

Actually Revell Germany's putty is excellent, as is Humbrol putty. The Humbrol stuff is not widely sold in the US but Revell USA is now packaging the German made glues and putties for US sales. It is as good as the old formula Tamiya stuff.

HLJ has good service though and I do recommend them. I wouldnt buy a $2 tube of putty mail order though. Rainbow 10 has more paints and finishing supplies and they are usualy at least 10-15% cheaper than HLJ. Their web site is just not as splashy.
 

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Get yourself a round wooden disc about 30" in diameter and some clamps. Small clamps to hold the panels together while gluing, and larger ones to hold each saucer half to the wooden disc to keep the outer edge level and from developing the dreaded 'wave'. Do the saucer top and bottom panels separately, then join them together much later after the glue is dried, the sanding and priming are all finished, and the interior is installed.

I fused the panels together with MEK (Tenax, Plastruct or Ambroid liquids would work equally well for this) and used Nitro Stan in the seams. I also reduced the outer edge thickness with a Dremel and added a Plastruct half-round to the entire circumference of the saucer edge to finish it off.

Good luck with that, and welcome to the board.
 

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I'm with Trek Ace on this one. Definitely use a piece of board that you can clamp to...either cut your own with a jigsaw or get a local woodshop to do it for you. I'd get a load of those cheap plastic spring clamps as you'll need a fair few.
Use a liquid cement...I'm in the UK and use Plastic Weld for everything but Tenax or Ambroid are the same stuff.
I swear by Humbrol filler as it sands easily but doesn't shrink and bonds really well to styrene. I've tried Revell filler and found it vastly inferior to Humbrol.
So, best of luck and lets see lots of pics!
 

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Welcome, Miranda!

There's a flaw with every filler idea that's been floated so far: putties will crack when your saucer sections are flexed, and flex the saucer sections will. After you've glued together the sections of each half (upper and lower), I would reinforce the joins from the inside. This could easily be done by gluing a strip of sheet styrene, maybe 1/4" wide and 0.02" thick, long the seam.

Instead of covering the outer seams with putty, I'd advise filling them with a bit of thin styrene rod or stretched sprue and use liquid cement to weld the plastic in place. After the plastic had been sanded flush with the saucer's surface, there would still be pits that would need to be filled with putty. But the possiblity of the putty shrinking or cracking would be almost nonexistent.

Good luck with your project and, by all means, please post some photos when you get it done!
 

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fill them first and then use about an inch wide strip of metal tape for ac ductwork and then putty the edges of the tape. works good covers seams.Welcome aboard Miranda.Have some Brownies they're special.
 

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Great we finally get a woman on here and you guys scared her off :p

Depending on the 'gaps' I have found that filling large areas with strips of styrene aka plastic is the best...glue them in there really well...let it dry one if not two days then use a good high quality filler.

These fine pieces can be found at your local hobby shop or sometimes a well supplied craft store. They come in all types of lengths and sizes.

'Orange Bondo fine filler' is a good one :thumbsup:...it can be obtained at some Auto parts stores or Auto body shops...they have them in hand size tubes that are not that expensive at all.

Welcome and good luck! :wave:
 

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I see they let Mark out on good behavior... 'again' :tongue::wave:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey guys!

Sorry I've been so long away! Not scared off at all, honest!

You guys have given me some great solutions. I like The-Nightsky's idea, and I'll be tracking down and testing the Bondo and Aves. I've been seeing some in-progress shots of disc reinforcement all over the web - and on the Science Fiction forum on this site - and I'm coming up with some of my own.

But I really appreciate the cautions against what not to try. You're saving me time and money, there.

I will DEFINITELY share pictures as I go along, but it will be slow going. My winter break's almost over. (I'm a teacher - model-building keeps me sane).

Thank you all so much for the welcome and the advice!
 
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