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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a bunch of HO battery locos at the 99 Cent store, and have been having some fun bashing them. They are sold as 1870s-style 4-4-0s with tenders, and a circle of sectional all-plastic track.

I previously wrote about a Knott's Berry Farm 2-8-0 I am building. It is well along, but I decided to start another Sn3.5 loco. It is a less ambitious 2-6-0, which, unlike the consolidation, uses the original wagon-top boiler. It is loosely based on 1870s-1890s Porter moguls.

Recently, I've been working on the tender. This entails expanding the tank in all three dimensions, using material from two tender tanks. I adapted some D&RG C-16 plans I got online, to get a suitable tender drawing. Then, I scribed and cut off the bottom of one of the tender tanks, flattened and final-sized it by sanding on a flat surface, and cemented it to the bottom of the other, uncut, tender tank, to get the proper height.

Now, I'm working on building up its width. This requires cutting the heightened tank in half longitudinally, frugally cutting the required material from the remains of the tank-bottom donor, squaring and sizing all the parts, and cementing the tank together again. Finally, the tank will be similarly lengthened.

It is similar, but simpler, process to build up the matching tender frame. I'll describe that later.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Yesterday I finished the initial framing for the tender. Like the tank, I had to use two original tender frames, to yield enough material for the job.

Firstly, I cut off the extensions of the bottom beams located between the trucks, flush with the bottom of the beams. Then, I cut off the rear of the frame, flush with the tank side of the tool box. I then cut off the outside edges of the original frames flush with the back of the lower beam. I turned these pieces, which have an L-shaped cross section, 90 degrees, so that the longer side now simulated the flat car frame, and the shorter side represented the extension of the floor outside the frame. I cut and cemented those pieces to the length of the tender frame shown on the drawing.

I trimmed each end of the tool box piece so it would fit between the frame pieces to the required drawing width. For the front tender deck, I cut out a piece of the flooring from the original frame to similarly fit between the frame pieces, and long enough to extend just back of the wood, or coal, gate.

I then cemented the frame pieces to the front floor piece, and also the rear tool box piece, completing the outline of the frame. I still need to put in cross members for the truck mounts, some additional material forward of the tool box for the coupler mount, and the actual truck, coupler, and drawbar mounts.

As for the tender tank, I just finished cutting, fitting, and cementing the pieces to extend the width of the tank. Next, I need to to extend the length of the tank similarly, to get the finished size.
 

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a lot of work thats way over my head but ive seen my hubby build engines out of brass and a lot of little parts and they allways run l.o.l.
do you have pictures .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
free spirit said:
a lot of work thats way over my head but ive seen my hubby build engines out of brass and a lot of little parts and they allways run l.o.l.
do you have pictures .
Still looking forward to getting a camera. I know, pictures are a necessity around here.

I thought about building the tender tank from brass, but it would have been a waste of the original plastic tenders. I made several parts for the engine using brass, though.
 

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toyroy said:
Still looking forward to getting a camera. I know, pictures are a necessity around here.

i know about the camera thing . its true pictures make a difference i never used a computer till a year ago and a digital camera was a mystery to me .in fact still learning l.o.l.about both .
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I wanted the tender to look closer to its finished appearance, at this point. But the frame has its bolsters, coupler, and drawbar mounts installed. It needs the frame pieces on the ends, the steps, and a little material added to the truck mounts.

The tank is now full sized. I need to add sheet to complete its top deck, fabricate and add the angled spillover plate around the top edge, make up and install the forward toolboxes and water filler cap, and add a vertical brass sheet to simulate the inside of the tank around the coal, or wood compartment. Oh, and round over the rear corners, and front water legs.
 

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toyroy i understood one thing you said l.o.l. couplers . i use to put those tiny little springs in the k dee couplers when they fell out .when i was trying to put one on a box car with the little shims to get it the right height . my hubby never had the patience if the sping fell out he tossed the coupler out .l.o.l. scratch building anything takes a lot of time and patience .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
free spirit said:
toyroy i understood one thing you said l.o.l. couplers . i use to put those tiny little springs in the k dee couplers when they fell out .when i was trying to put one on a box car with the little shims to get it the right height . my hubby never had the patience if the sping fell out he tossed the coupler out .l.o.l. scratch building anything takes a lot of time and patience .
Everyone brings different stuff to the hobby!
 

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neat drawing ,,now i know what your making , a coal tender for a steam engine right
i remember glueing a whole bunch of little coal pieces on one for my hubby .so it would look real l.o.l. we have quite a few steam engines but i dont know the names of most of them only a pacific engine and little tiny one think its a camelback.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You're right, although I haven't decided yet, whether my engine will appear to be coal, or wood fired.
 
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