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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have a BRP V2 with balldiff and am having some handling issues at my track. Its asphalt, but has wavy and bumpy patches. The main issue I'm having is the rear end bouncing too much and loosing its footing which leads to a minor course correction sending me into the boards. Having looked at Tang's track tips thread I might need to loosen the diff a bit. I'm coming from a m18 where 2-3 feet of slip was way too loose :| Beyond that I used some generic syringe packaged silicone diff lube on the damper disk. I am using an apogee 800mAh lipo on one side, a XXL and quantum sport on the other. S3003 servo up front and a speed300 in the rear.

Any setup tips would be very appreciated!

P.S. Track in question is http://seattleindoorraceway.com
 

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First thing take the lipos out. The car is designed for the weight of the 2/3A cells. If your on oval run them as saddle packs 4 cell or 6.

Spend the $3.00 and get 100 weight shock oil for the rear damper, set the rear so it is loose not too much preload on the discs.
Also run the diff so it does slip slightly.
Are you running the stock motor?
Use BRP #7460 diff lube or thick 1/8th buggy diff oil on the fromt king pins do not use the diff paste some of those have traction type additives and it will not be as smooth.
 

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I noticed the speed 300 if your on 4 cell it should be OK if your on 6 cell dial back the high speed end point. That will knock some torque out of it but it will still have top end go down like 25% as a start.
Going to the mid motor chassis with big motor is much better the mid chassis has more rear bite and is smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the prompt response, from the man himself no less.

Assuming the car is balanced with the lipo and electronics, does not having as much weight hurt the handling of the v2 that much? Unfortunately I don't have any 2/3A cells/packs and I don't see a reason to buy some when I have a perfectly capable lipo.

I'll try the shock oil on the damper, adjust the diff to slip more and I will polish and properly lube the front kingpins.

As for knocking down the end point, I'd rather not since I'm racing against brushless m18's that can handle the speed - so I will need the full range of the 300 to keep up. What I can do is adjust my throttle curve so that start power is lower.

I'd love to go for the mid mount, but I want to get the one I have driving right before I even consider buying more parts :) Alternately I could drop in a lighter BL motor that would mitigate the fact that its rear mount. I'd probably dial back the EPA in that case!

I'll try all of the above and post again with results after the next race night in a couple of weeks. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can drop some lead weights on, any suggestions on where (using 300 size motor and full size servo up front). All in the centerline of the chassis?

Would this work or does it just really have to have nimh?
 

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cdog, I can bring one of my older 2/3a pack next week or you try if you like, I also have some lead weights from my crawler parts box.

Bud i have to say it always inpresses me with the amount of help you give on your forum here. And I look forward to when i finally buy a BRP 18th scale car.
 

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You can do the weight one of the guy's here did that.With just the lipos the T plate is too thick since it was designed for the weight of the 2/3 A cell.

I would put right wer the batts would normaly go.
 
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