[RobRacer]

OK - so the legends class at our track is growing and I'm about to join in. I have my bolink car built - but I have a few questions:

1: What is the best way to keep the 4-cell spec pack batteries in the chassis

2: What amp / cutoff should we charge the spec 4-cell on a turbo 35?

3. Anybody have Legends secret handing tips?

4. What amp rate should the motor pull after break in?

5. Best lube for the brass bushings?

- Bob

 

[TBRC1]

Hey there when I ran ledgends I used strapping tape to hold the batteries in. As for the charging I'm not sure. One handling tip I used was to lightly twist the chassis with the screws lightly loose so that once tightend the left rear has some extra chassis weight on it. On my ledgend I used this tire set up, RF blue LF green RR green and LR a yellow on carpet. If you can use other tires (outside of the spec ones I had to use) try a black RF grey LF grey RR and a white LR. As for the amp draw on the motor I would'nt know we used regular stock motors and for the bushings the track allowed bearings.

Hope this helps you our and good luck at the track !!!!!

Toby Taylor TBRC Racing

 

[JMack12]

3. Anybody have Legends secret handing tips?

Don't completely tighten the chassis crossmembers except for the one in the very rear. I had a rpoblem of my Legends car not getting off of the corner and spinning the right rear during acceleration off of the corner. The A-main guys were so much faster than I was, and I explained the problem. This car uses the chassis flex as its "suspension". When I loosened my crossmembers except for that one, the car was a rocket and laid down the power equally on the LR and RR.

For holding in the batteries, I use a reusable zip-tie.

 

[KDarc]

Bob. Take a piece of foam and push the battery to the left side of the chassie and then use straping tape to tape them in. You can reuse it many times. I would charge at around 4 amps for spec packs 1600. .02 cutoff. J Mack told you the secret on the chassie bolts. Try to get around 6 to 7 amps on your motors. Light oil works great on the bushings. If you have access to a truer, put some stagger in your tires. I like using BSR spec tires. Run them as low as you can without body rubbing the carpet. I run them at 2.15 " inside and 2.20" outside. If you don't have a truer just keep swapping them side to side. This is a great class and you will enjoy it greatly.

 

[bst]

Has anyone tried flipping everything to the left including motor and servo?

 

[RobRacer]

Well - all your speed secrets really helped!

First time out and I won both my heat races. Ran some of the fastest laps in the main - but had a "Racing Incident" that took me out of contention for the win in the first few laps. I have a few changes to make and I'll have something for them next week!

By the way, does anyone think there is any difference in speed using different body styles?

- Bob

 

[JMack12]

I use a Ford coach or sedan (square-back) body, but most of the guys where I run use a coupe. The coupe seems to get the air over it better.

As for switching the motor over to the left side, that really won't work unless you run an "open motor" rule. We run a handout motor, so we can't run the reverse-rotation motors.

Looked at my car last night after reading this, and my two rear chassis crossmembers (on the very rear of the car), and the one under the motor. The rest are loose.

 

[Erich Reichert]

"handling tips" why that sounds an aweful lot like "creative rule bending" LOL.
I ran the side plate screws a bit loose for more grip, used half an many diff balls for less rotating mass, polised the inside of the bushings and axel where they touched, and my all time favorite... bent the king pin for more caster. I know, but hey i says NOTHING about that... could've happened in a crash you know! :freak:

As far as the battery, I just used a velcro battery strap but tape will do too, make sure you put the battery over to the left, every little bit helps! I also mounted all the electronics underneath to lower the center of gravity.

As for suggestions, if you can still find it, they made a top brace for the front end (it was legal) that helped a lot witht he front suspension. GOOD LUCK and dont' forget to HAVE FUN!

 

[RobRacer]

So - what kind of tool and polish do you use to polish the inside of the bushings?

 

[Erich Reichert]

foam tip for dremel too. Put some polish on it and work it into the bushing.

 

[MIKE VALENTINE]

I'd recomend not polishing the bushings. Polish the axle and just run the motor for awhile adding oil to it. It's next to impossable to get all the polish out of the bushings, the polish gets embedded into the bushing and wears the axle.

 

[bst]

What about front shims and/or springs? Anymore about caster? When you mount your electronics under your chassis, do you strap your battery under them and do you have any problems with heat or ground clearance?
At our local tracks we run breakout classes (6.0 for Legends).

 

[Erich Reichert]

Not sure about adding shims being legal. I could be wrong but I don't think you can "add" any new parts to the car. I also dont' remember exactly what my car looked like but I seem to rmember putting the washer that is on the front under the spring to do what you are mentioning. Says you can't add shims but says nothing about where you put the ones that come with the kit (i.e. both shims for each side on one side). I servo taped the electronics in the bottom and yes there was room for the battery too (we used the 4cell packs). You may have to try it a few times before you can get everythign to fit. I had a Novak Cyclone in there and there were not issues iwth ground clearance at all, the electronics are mounted to the chassis tray just on the opposite side of it.

 

[Mr.fastman]

Erich - I like you sign off, I'm going to visit google and try that.


Doug P

 

[Erich Reichert]

HAHA! Nothing wrong with DIY signatures... well as long as Hank doesn't have a problem with it I suppose. :freak:

 

[IHAUL]

put 1 washer between the front wheels and the steering blocks if you use bushings
2 washers under the left steering block
1 washer under the right block
for oval

 

[Erich Reichert]

If I'm also not mistaken there are washers on the axles too. You can put the rf washer behind the wheel and the lf one behind the wheel nut to offset the wheels a little. Any sort of rear axel shims that included can be used to offset the rear end a little too. Sorry, I know my info my be a little vague, its been quite some time since I had my Legend, I'm trying to go from memory. Bascially take a look around your car as the parts it comes with and try to think of different ways to use them within the rules. Good luck and keep us posted on what you find makes a big difference.