this is a question asked frequently. u will get many answers. the shock's that most people run are either the hpi, or associated. some say the hpi is smoother. this is a much debated subject. some say the associated is just as good if you build it right. i myself run associated. i have tried the hpi, and found no advantage with it.
hope this helps you out;
paul huntington :thumbsup:
Paul is right, both are good shocks. The HPI is a little easier to build & seems to last a little longer between rebuilds. The AE shock is just as good when built properly but it has a longer shaft which suits pan cars a little better. I personally like the HPI better because I don't need to tinker with it when rebuilding.
I really like the HPI shock, seems to be the center shock of choice in my area. Easy to build, several piston sizes and limiters. HPI part # 72170 I think, I know Bruce at www.rc4less.com has them for $31.57 set of two, Murdoc RC also has them dont know his price.
Seems to be a personal prefrence thing mostly,I like the HPI because they are so much easier to rebuild,self bleeding feature is really nice,but the assoc will work fine to.You can buy individually or in pairs at Murdock.If you go with the HPI, get the General silicones o-rings and bladders they make for a longer lasting and smoother shock.
HPI shock is a good all around shock that is easy to build. But one i have seen a few guys use and i want to is the shock that come from serpant with the X-ray. those seem to be realy well designed as well. And are consistant to build as well.
its totally preference.. i prefer the associated......
but they rquire more rebuilding....the hpi, tamiya,xray ect dont need to be rebuilt as much... i like the associated because all i run is associated springs.. they fit on it best.. the other shocks are shorter, and require trimming of the spring, or alot of preload...
I have to cast my Vote for HPI as well. I am a converted A/E TC3 shock user. I would build my A/E shock the best I could and then check it against my buds HPI, and I myself NEVER could duplicate the smoothness of the HPI shock, or If I did, theat smoothness seemed to last 1 or 2 racedays, then it would start to fel scratchy, MY HPI shock has been mounted a year, with nothing done to it, shy of an oil change for track conditions, still has the origional seals inside, no leaks, smooth as silk.
Now I have used the TC3 shock in the past on many dirt oval cars, and was totaly hppy with it, UNTILL trying the HPI....I had only one pan car when I bought my first HPI shock, I have 3 now..all of them have HPI center shocks on them.
For shaft length, you can use different A/E shafts in the HPI shock, to achive the proper length if needed,I prefer to use the stock supplied shaft and an RPM long ball stud cap, trimed to length to suit the application.
Useing the long end, also allows for some adjustment of preload, the threads on the shock shaft are twice as long as needed to endure the force pans apply to this joint, just dont thread the rod end on so far, and you will have plenty of room. OR if you prefer switch to an A/E .71 shock shaft...it's a touch bigger diameter, but with about 15 mins, and some 1000, and 1500 grit wet/dry papper, and dremmel, and some mothers you can , "GET ER' DONE!"