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Discussion Starter #1
I am talking your race cells, reciever packs and radio bateries

How do you cycle, maintain and condition.

I have been using the trinity trays and now a few mags are saying it's OK to deep cycle and even dead short 3300's What are your methods and results

How do you treat your radio cells and reciever packs?

What do some of you think of the new team orange dicharger???? I've heard good things on that

Let's not argue on methods or products just what are the rituals????
 

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The big thing with deadshorting your 3300mah's, is to make sure....and I mean make sure each cell is down to 0 volts before putting the deadshort bar on the pack.

I have seen many guys ruin their packs in the last year or so.

My method is run the pack, dishcarge at 35 amps on the GFX, take off immediately and put on either my Trinity Real Time 2 tray or my Intey Octance 2 tray. Leave on for at least half hour to an hour. Best way is to check each cell with a volt meter, if every cell is down to 0 volts then put your bar on.
Leave it that way until the next time you run it.

Just dont put the pack on the tray for a minute until the lights go out, believe me the pack is not at 0 volts just cause the lights are out.

Good luck racing!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Now there are absolute zero trays coming out saying to leave the pack in for a few days. Is this going to limit the life of the pack or ruin the pack sooner just to get the voltage increase out of it? I kinda like the new novak tray. except for the person I know who put his pack in backwards, the milliamp capacity has gone up. I use the realtime 2 trays and am thinking about the novak.
 

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toyowner said:
Is this going to limit the life of the pack or ruin the pack sooner just to get the voltage increase out of it? .
I have been dead shorting for many years, I have never had a pack go bad, I have packs of 2000's and 2400's That are atleast 4-5 years old that have always been dead shorted and they still work
 

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Hi,
Could someone please explain dead shorting, I've heard the term before but don't know what it does.
Also, what are these ''trays'' your talking about ?

Thanks,
dave hauch
 

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dhauch. I would recommend going to www. promatchracing.com click on support.they have alot of valuable info on batteries trays etc.You will find probably all and more answers there.
 

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whatever method you do choose,, i recomend u do that system the exact same way every time.. being consistent in you procedure will keep packs alive longer...

i dead short... some do some dont.. i recomend it... it helps and works.. it des not kill the batteries as some say... (if done right)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got my novak tray. I have been playing with it and trying different things out. From all the reviews I have read, The best way to use it is to "tray" the pack right before you charge or cycle it. People have asked me why it uses such a low discharge amp rate. My best guess goes along with what I saw on another chat thread. They keep the rate low so that unneccesary heat doesn't build in the cell for sake of the charge shortly after the equalization. It seems o be working alright. My average dischage voltage has gone up a little and the cells accept allot more milliamps during the charge incresing runtime All my results are from a CE 35GFX.
 
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New packs get assembled, labeled with an id marking then charged and discharged then information kept in a log to determine when pack starts to decline.

Charge rates and discharge vary with the type of racing oval stock & 19turn 6-8amps, 5.50 to 6 for modified and 6amp for stock offroad and touring car, discharger 24amp for offroad & TC and 32 (16bulbs) for oval. When runtime starts to decrease, mod packs are moved used for 19turn and replaced with new packs.

Storage:all NIMH are stored discharged to a .90 voltage per cell, before charging or cycling they are placed in an equalizing tray before charging (mostly Sanyo 3000HV and GP3300 are used now, 2400 are mostly for practice along with other Nicads). Packs have been left for up to 6months without cycling, those have generally needed 2-3 cycles to bring them up to normal, but try to cycle inactive packs at least once a month. Transmitter and receiver packs are generally trickled charge but on occassion when I have to fast charge I try once each month to discharge the cells (using one 1157 bulb) or leaving radio or pack plug in until it dropped in voltage then trickled charged pack. I found fast charging may cut down on the life of cells where trickle charging may yield more cycles. Race packs are cycled once a month after about 5-6 race uses or about 2 months after purchase to determine any decline, sooner if pack starts charging irregularily. I use a Integy 16x5 or 16x5v6 charger to cycle packs now vs the stopwatch method I once used.
 
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