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Discussion Starter #1
Any way to repair a broken guide pin?
I have a TOMY Turbo/SRT chassis that has a broken guide pin mount (completely snapped off), and another EBAY purchase coming that also has a broken/snapped guide pin. Does anyone know of any way to repair the chassis?

I have one bare chassis in the mail, but if there is any way to effectively do a good repair I would like to know about it.

Thanks for any info.

Note: Posted this is wrong section earlier, so posting it here now.

Below is a comment previously received.

I would epoxy a small piece of plastic to the front, cut out a small grove and then glue a metal guide pin in. I did that with one of mine and it's held for years
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
After reading a little here I was able to repair two TOMY Turbo/SRT chassis. Here is what I did with pics. Most of the info is in the pics.

I cut guide pins out of old Life-Like chassis, ground it down to fit into the TOMY chassis, glued it in with Plastruct plastic Weld and let that dry for 24 hours minimum.

Next, I applied epoxy on the top, and bottom sides of the guide pin. Just a minimal amount of epoxy on the bottom side to keep it fairly flat, and let that dry for at least 24 hours.

I then applied JB Kwik weld to the front axle holes, let that dry for 24 hours, drilled the holes with a #55 - .052" Diameter Drill Bit, and worked the drill bit until it easily moved through the holes. After that I applied super glue to strengthen/harden the JB because it seemed a little soft. I let the super glue dry, then rechecked the axle holes with the drill bit, and was ready to go. I assembled the two chassis and they work fine.






these are photobucket pics so they won't be here forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Slide-guides are a cool way to go, easily adapted, and work very well on plastic track. Uses readily available 1/8" copper braid. See HORacePro North America
They may be cool, but they don't fix a broken guide pin mount, which this repair was for.
 

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these are photobucket pics so they won't be here forever.
Why? I have Photobucket pics. that have been posted for probably ten years and they are still on the web in different places. As long as you don't remove them from Photobucket, they will always be viewable.

:dude:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Why? I have Photobucket pics. that have been posted for probably ten years and they are still on the web in different places. As long as you don't remove them from Photobucket, they will always be viewable.

:dude:
Well, I guess as long as photobucket is there and I don't remove them then all will be well.
 

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in the pic, you use JB quick weld
how easy is to remove? I use black max which come off with acetone

the pin part of the guide pin will thin out/or break and have to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
in the pic, you use JB quick weld
how easy is to remove? I use black max which come off with acetone

the pin part of the guide pin will thin out/or break and have to be replaced.
The JB Kwik Weld is only over (and adjacent to) the axle holes, and does not extend to the guide pin area. I wanted to make sure the axles would not snap out. The axles have to be installed like you would on a Super G+, through the hole then press the rim(s) on.

The epoxy is covering the guide pin, and would have to be removed if the guide needed replacement. I don't run my cars so much that I ever had to replace a guide pin.

If you want a replaceable guide pin you can use this method, just don't put any epoxy over the area where the guide pin snaps in. Actually if you use the Loctite plastic repair, like I did, it is probably easier to slap it on then cut it back to uncover the guide pin before it fully hardens. It is soft enough to cut with an Exacto knife before it fully hardens.

Try it if you need to, and let us know how it works for you.
 

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I use JB Kwik on most of my light up customs. How well it sticks to plastic depends on how rough the surface is. On the metal guide pin, you should be able to slide a #11 Exacto knife right under it after it's cured if removal becomes necessary.

On plastic, it will do pretty much the same. It'll hold up to a certain amount of stress and then break free. It will also grind off pretty easily with a ball shaped grinding bit in a Dremel. If it does break free and you didn't want it to, a couple drops of CA will bond it back together, better than the original JB to plastic bond.
 
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