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Discussion Starter #1
This is video comes from Trackmate.
Dan shows how to do power taps on sectional track

 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's usable but a little light Dan.
Your phone wire is probably only 22G at best.
If you have nothing else and money's tight,use it,but if you can scrounge up something alittle more robust,it wouldn't hurt:thumbsup:
Rick
 

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my track had 12g wire! but i ran unlimited.

but here is a suggestion or 2

place the track on a wet cloth, this helps to prevent any warping (I have a crappy iron)

once the wire is solder to the rails, I glue the wire to the track as well. this takes any stress off the solder joint
 

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my track had 12g wire! but i ran unlimited.

but here is a suggestion or 2

place the track on a wet cloth, this helps to prevent any warping (I have a crappy iron)

once the wire is solder to the rails, I glue the wire to the track as well. this takes any stress off the solder joint
Or use hot glue gun, I did that to hold the wire for me then soldered the tap to the rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dan,i have probably 50 little short 18G solid core taps already pre-made.

I made them up for my track,but then went a differant way on taps.
I have no use for them now

They're roughly 2" long,all pre-tinned,if they'll do you any good,there yours.
They're identical to the one i show soldering in the soldering video.
Look them over,and you can have them if you want

You'll have to "L" bend them to solder to your rails,and if you put a hook in the other end,you can loop your wire feeds into the loop.
That way down the road if you decide to upgrade your wire feeds,you'd just have to run into the bottom loop of the soldered on jumper.
Rick
 

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Rick,
Not to take anything away from that great video, but I saw another method used which is really simple. Haven't done it myself yet, but that's only because my taps are already done.

Take a standard terminal track. Using a hobby knife, score a line along the edge of the track until you can easily snap off the side box. Leave the metal strips intact and bend them down under the track. There will only be three metal strips and you'll want to isolate the common one. On the underside of the track, cut the common strip between the two lanes, leaving the part that is already attached to the underside of the rail. Then connect your wires to those strips. Attaching your power wires to the metal strips is a lot easier than soldering to the small opening in the rail.

The way those metal strips are attached to the rails looks pretty flimsy, yet they seem to hold well.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Joe you just jogged the memory, i think somebody showed a technic along those lines here somewhere ,or talked about it on HT.
I remember somebody using spade connectors to attach right to the strips on the bottom of terminal tracks,after cutting the side connectors off.
I think they were bending the strips in 1/2 where the connector slid on.
Memories not as good as it used to be,so i could be totally out in left field,lol:p:p
But it's another option to think about that's for sure,attaching to the terminal tracks,it accomplish's the same thing,spread the power feed out:thumbsup:
Dan should have a few start/finish pieces to practice on,i sent him a bunch of old ones,to practice with,lol

I didn't have that option,on my track in the video Todd and i made,lol
I figured if Dan wanted the jumpers he could have them,that's why i offered them up,lol

I didn't make the video above,it came from Dan at Trackmate,i was just passing it on

Al was it you,who was using female spade connectors?
I know somebody has mentioned using them

Rick
 

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I did that with my 1st track, I drilled holes in the tongues and use nut bolts to hold the wires.

it seem the soldering was just as easy.

also saw pics where the drill 2 holes next to the rail, cut a slot into the rail and hook the wire over the rail, then solder & sand flush.

so basically wire is on they very well and not coming lose
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Now that's probably the simplest way to go ,good tip Mike.:thumbsup:

For guys where solderings not an option,the nut/bolt idea is something to think about.


I did send Dan a couple of demo style taps,and one was Scott's way,the slotted rail and double hole version.:thumbsup:
 

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Got it!

Joe you just jogged the memory, i think somebody showed a technic along those lines here somewhere ,or talked about it on HT.
I remember somebody using spade connectors to attach right to the strips on the bottom of terminal tracks,after cutting the side connectors off.
I think they were bending the strips in 1/2 where the connector slid on.
Memories not as good as it used to be,so i could be totally out in left field,lol:p:p

****snip****

Rick
Jeez! Took me a while. It was "Crimnick". Havent heard from Crimmy in a while. Wunner if he's OK?

We'll definately have to add him to the "what ever happened to so and so" list this year.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
LOL,ain't nothing wrong with your memory Bill:thumbsup:
As soon as i seen Crimmicks name,the light's came on;)
You're right he hasn't posted anything in a long time.
I wonder how he is too
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Dan you've been no problem.
It's for our younger generation,and i personally think you're doing a great thing by helping the kids :thumbsup::thumbsup:.

We had a good slotcar program at my junior high school,way back in the 70's,and helping the younger generation,is only payback:wave::thumbsup:.

The offer still stands,if you figure the little jumpers will do you any good,i'll fire them your way.
Rick
 

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Using the power tap methods of soldering or hooking the rails would be easier for positive track polarity which is driver's side rail in direction of travel.
Will using the terminal track tabs cause a negative wired track if the power
tabs are on the passenger side?
 
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