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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1/350 "Todd" Polar Lights Original series Enterprise build #1.

And so begins another Enterprise build...
Because of the terrible fit, the rear Shuttlebay needs modification to allow the secondary hull parts to fit together correctly. Even though the bay doors are being modeled closed, It requires the removing of 3/4 of the bay and sanding to fit.(The Shuttlebay is the weak point on this kit. It's way out of scale for what it's supposed to be. Although I have assembled a number of these models with a fully lit bay, I am fortunate to have friends who want their models to look like the actual Filming miniature.)

The warp nacelles are cemented together and will now have the unavoidable seam filled and puttied to a smooth finish.
The secondary hull is test fitted with the shuttle bay and deflector housing area in place.
The internal supports for the Nacelle supports are cemented in place.
Test fitting of the secondary hull with the "neck" in place.

The "smooth" saucer replacement test fitted.( Just a little info here...I had to fill in the horrendous grid lines on the saucer on several builds, including my personal build before the replacement was available. I actually proposed on a well known Hobby page on Facebook that it would be a great idea if Polar Lights released a separate smooth hull...to which the Administrator of the page swooped in and said how BAD of an idea it was...three months later Polar lights released the smooth hull.

Next up, Light blocking.









 

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Discussion Starter #2
1/350 "Todd" Polar Lights Original series Enterprise build #2.
Boring stuff...
The model's Internal areas have been light blocked.
First the windows on the exterior areas have been masked off to prevent the light blocking from spraying on the exterior hull.
Why? I don't feel like cleaning up the mess when I start Air Brushing the base color.
I do a two step process for light blocking. First flat black followed by silver(or white, Having actually did this for years there really is no difference, I don't care what the You Tube"experts" preach.

Also, I mask off as much of the mounting points as possible. Why? You need the surface clean for final cement.
The mounting surfaces are also lightly sanded to insure a strong permanent bond.

I also air brushed the deflector dish assembly...More detail work on the inner housing of the dish support after the area dries...
Why? Because the inner areas are the same color as the base coat of the model.
Next up...The base coat will be applied to the exterior hull.




 

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Discussion Starter #3
1/350 "Todd" Polar Lights Original series Enterprise build #3

More rudimentary stuff. The filling and sanding smooth of the Nacelles.
Each Nacelle is filled in and sanded perfectly smooth to reflect one solid piece.
As with all my work, I am very picky about the final result.
What is seen here is the beginning...The final results will be up soon.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
1/350 "Todd" Polar Lights Original series Enterprise build #5


So finally happy and finished up with the seam filling and sanding of the two warp nacelles.
they are currently airbrushed the base color.
They were continually examined and assessed after each pass with the filling and sanding. they are now ready for the final coat and installation of electronics.





 

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I will say this, if you don’t give us a super detailed explanation of how you achieved your excellent bussard lighting effect I will be severely perturbed. ;)
 
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