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Discussion Starter #1
Accidentally posted this in the wrong forum last night, so sorry if some of you have already read this.

I got a couple of D-7's the other day even though I'm not a big 1/1000th scale fan.

I honestly don't know what all the fuss is about the alleged inaccuracies(other then the 1/850th scale factory miscommunication).

Yes, the port side part #1 was serious screwed up in the factory mold cutting process, looks like a tracing or cutting tool must have slipped during the die-cutting.

I don't see anything else that looks particularly off, though I'm sure there are people who would have us do MRI's and compare X-rays of a filming miniature to have that proved.

From the original brue-ha-ha(ha? how many ha's should that be? can never remember...)

one would think this was the Dinky version in plastic.

To my untrained eye the only part that is really screwed up is the port side on the neck/body connection.

It seems to only involve that one single piece that's messed up, are there perhaps any plans that anyone knows of to redo just that one piece in the near future?

Has anyone come up with an aftermarket accuratizing piece for this?
 

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I believe two ha has is the proper follow-up to the bru :).

I think the other issues are that the bridge pieces are too tall, and the engines need to tuck inward another 1/4-inch.
 

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I still happen to have an unbuilt AMT D7 om hand. I wonder if it would be less trouble accurizing that than trying to fix the skewed PL kit. oes anyone know if this skewed part error has since been fixed in terms of production?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
John P said:
I believe two ha has is the proper follow-up to the bru :).

I think the other issues are that the bridge pieces are too tall, and the engines need to tuck inward another 1/4-inch.
If that's true then I can live with those minor differences at this small a scale. They look okay, even though I will admit to not pulling out the calipers to check.

I'd probably be upset if there were such problems were repeated in 1/350th scale, but on these no big deal. But personally I'm not wishing or holding my breath on anything in 1/350th scale past a TOS Enterprise. Once that one is on the shelves I'll breath easier and hope for others...

The only thing that is bugging me on this one is the screwed up connecting point. It's a little too big a gap for putty. No way to sand putty down flush where it's located and make it match the other side.
 

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John P said:
I believe two ha has is the proper follow-up to the bru :).
And of course, the proper spelling is actually "brouhaha."

Sorry; I just can't help myself. :rolleyes:

Qapla'

SSB
 

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I used a toothpick jammed in the gap on the deficit side until it evened the neck up. I put superglue with accelerator to freeze it into place. I then used epoxy putty to fill in and sanded everything to polish it up. Not a big deal and certanly made for a stronger fit there.

The model otherwise looks FANTASTIC! I would figuratively die for a 1/350th D7! Whew! That would be absolutely glorious!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dave M, is there no chance that the company you guys hired to do the molds for the D-7 will cough up a new mold for that one piece they messed up?

Are you using the same company for the Refit's molds?

God knows we'd all hate to see a similar tooling error on the 1/350th Refit!
 

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I would've thought such an error should've been caught in the test shots. Regardless, it's an easy fix. Use epoxy putty rather than the Squadron, Bondo Spot type putties. What I did was position the boom arm in place, pack in the putty, then removed the piece for it to cure. Then I dressed up the putty with the proper needle files. That's one way to get the join as neat as possible. Otherwise, you could take care when packing the putty, using water and tootpicks to smooth and clean the area as much a possible. It should look pretty good!
 
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