Hi Paul, You are right the big port cut in the missile bay is so you can fish the circuit board and wiring from front to back. The main nose seam still needs some work but its a good start... Love the new decals and PE you have designed for the kit, top notch as usual. Randy
8 Window Seaview Build Up
A few photos of the new 8 window seaview kit... Wow this is a must have for the Seaview builders and fans alike... Frank, Dave & Gary have knocked this one out of the park... I am woking on a few build ups for clients and will be showing some photos along the way. Thanks Moebius!!!:thumbsup:
21 - 40 of 128 Posts
Thanks Randy!
That's a nice buildup, Macki. It's wild how the lights from the Cadillac fins shows up on the wall.
That's a nice buildup, Macki. It's wild how the lights from the Cadillac fins shows up on the wall.
That was quick.this is my build
This kit keeps on getting better... Love this model... Randy
Looking great, Randy, and as for loving this model, ME TOO!! I can't remember enjoying the 4-window build as much as I'm loving THIS one! :thumbsup:
plum of water? Is that like a peach of dirt?last minute addition to the lighting under the plum of water
LOL old fat fingers do it again and nice to see spelling police out and about would have been better if said somthing about the photoplum of water? Is that like a peach of dirt?
Fxshop, beautiful build ups! - how about a 'night shot' with illuminated interior? Also, if I may ask, since you have both versions, do you reckon if the control room interior of the 4-window sub could be 'reasonably' shoe-horned into the upper deck of the 8-window sub? Cheers, Fox!
Even if there was room enough, (Which there really isn't because I was going to put a hallway at the top of the spiral staircase on my Flying Sub version. Not enough head room!!!), you would need to cut up and move many of the wall sections. The large flashing computer wall is opposite of where it is in season 2-4 and many other controls are in different locations. If it fit it would't be impossible, it would just take a lot of work to get it right! :thumbsup:Fxshop, beautiful build ups! - how about a 'night shot' with illuminated interior? Also, if I may ask, since you have both versions, do you reckon if the control room interior of the 4-window sub could be 'reasonably' shoe-horned into the upper deck of the 8-window sub? Cheers, Fox!
I've just started my buildup (sanding, cleaning up rough edges, prepping the PE parts for fitting, etc.) and have a question for those who have already built 4 and 8 window lighted Seaviews;
I purchased the JAI eight window lighting kit (looks pretty "plug and play" or someone inexperienced with lighting models) but was looking for input on how/where to locate switches, batteries, etc. and provide access to the electronics.
One idea I had was to make the entire missile deck part "wild" (i.e. movable) and stash batteries/switches/electronics in there, and use some method, like miniature magnets to hold the deck in place. Has anyone tried this succesfully or have a better solution? I don't want to "hardwire" the sub (i.e. 110 a/c w/adapter) as, yes, I'll admit it.... there will be times I may just want to pick this beauty up and "sail" her around the house in my hands.... there, I've said it.... hell, I gotta make up for all those years as a kid being deprived the opportunity to "play" with a large scale Seaview!!!
Seriously, I'd love to know how others have accomplished this and if my idea makes sense. Many thanks in advance!
Mike
I purchased the JAI eight window lighting kit (looks pretty "plug and play" or someone inexperienced with lighting models) but was looking for input on how/where to locate switches, batteries, etc. and provide access to the electronics.
One idea I had was to make the entire missile deck part "wild" (i.e. movable) and stash batteries/switches/electronics in there, and use some method, like miniature magnets to hold the deck in place. Has anyone tried this succesfully or have a better solution? I don't want to "hardwire" the sub (i.e. 110 a/c w/adapter) as, yes, I'll admit it.... there will be times I may just want to pick this beauty up and "sail" her around the house in my hands.... there, I've said it.... hell, I gotta make up for all those years as a kid being deprived the opportunity to "play" with a large scale Seaview!!!
Seriously, I'd love to know how others have accomplished this and if my idea makes sense. Many thanks in advance!
Mike
Mike i opened up under missile deck to get at wires and batt and just snap deck back down and as for switch i ran wire down in to stand and put switch in bace at or near the top of it
Thanks! Sounds like a good route to go!Mike i opened up under missile deck to get at wires and batt and just snap deck back down and as for switch i ran wire down in to stand and put switch in bace at or near the top of it
Even if there was room enough, (Which there really isn't because I was going to put a hallway at the top of the spiral staircase on my Flying Sub version. Not enough head room!!!)
-Unless there is something wrong with the wall proportions, there should be enough headroom. I put a hallway behind the upper hatch in mine, tho' the nose was all scratch-built. I was toying with the idea of putting the control room under the bridge on the top deck but decided to do another model instead.
One idea I had was to make the entire missile deck part "wild" (i.e. movable) and stash batteries/switches/electronics in there, and use some method, like miniature magnets to hold the deck in place. Has anyone tried this succesfully or have a better solution? I don't want to "hardwire" the sub (i.e. 110 a/c w/adapter)
-I made the deck removable. It's held in place by magnets. The battery pack is under the bridge because I opened up the free floods along the side of the deck and once that's done you can see inside where the missile and hatch tubes should be. They're a great bit of detail that's surprisingly visible. Just three magnets hold the deck very tightly to the hull. The wiring to the sail has small push connectors so the deck can be completely separated. I also have an external power jack near the bottom of the hull beside the missile room, roughly where the power cable to the sealab was seen in the James Darren episode, when I don't go sailing... er, when I want to go the wall adapter option.
-Unless there is something wrong with the wall proportions, there should be enough headroom. I put a hallway behind the upper hatch in mine, tho' the nose was all scratch-built. I was toying with the idea of putting the control room under the bridge on the top deck but decided to do another model instead.
One idea I had was to make the entire missile deck part "wild" (i.e. movable) and stash batteries/switches/electronics in there, and use some method, like miniature magnets to hold the deck in place. Has anyone tried this succesfully or have a better solution? I don't want to "hardwire" the sub (i.e. 110 a/c w/adapter)
-I made the deck removable. It's held in place by magnets. The battery pack is under the bridge because I opened up the free floods along the side of the deck and once that's done you can see inside where the missile and hatch tubes should be. They're a great bit of detail that's surprisingly visible. Just three magnets hold the deck very tightly to the hull. The wiring to the sail has small push connectors so the deck can be completely separated. I also have an external power jack near the bottom of the hull beside the missile room, roughly where the power cable to the sealab was seen in the James Darren episode, when I don't go sailing... er, when I want to go the wall adapter option.
Very nice job on that scratch built observation lounge starseeker.
Starseeker, that's a great idea (I'm using Pauls PE set with raised limber holes so I'll open up the areas behind the limber hole parts)... making the whole top deck "wild" will make it possible to move the electronics/batteries forward so that I can detail the visible portions of the inner hull seen through the limber holes (like the missile and escape hatch tubes as you did). My skills are nowhere near as developed as yours, so in the interest of not possibly ruining my model, I'll probably not go as far as you did and make the entire upper casing removable, but only the horizontal deck portions themselves. Thanks for fodder for some great concepts for my build!I made the deck removable. It's held in place by magnets. The battery pack is under the bridge because I opened up the free floods along the side of the deck and once that's done you can see inside where the missile and hatch tubes should be. They're a great bit of detail that's surprisingly visible. Just three magnets hold the deck very tightly to the hull. The wiring to the sail has small push connectors so the deck can be completely separated. I also have an external power jack near the bottom of the hull beside the missile room, roughly where the power cable to the sealab was seen in the James Darren episode, when I don't go sailing... er, when I want to go the wall adapter option.
I hunted around a bit and the best I could find about "deadlights" is they are a light or skylight that does not open, that has a cover to block out light (whether to keep light in, or out.) I guess in the case of a submarine they are lights that can be covered to black out the boat.I like finally having the eight window Seaview. It will go nicely with the four window I already have.
Not being a Navy man I don't know much about subs so I have a few questions;
I can understand the need for front and rear cameras on the sail but why are the four "windows" on the sail called "dead lights"?
Why is there water tight doors just above the sail dive planes?
What are the four small rectangular bumps on either side of the sail for?
These questions are for detailing purposes.
I've always assume that the doors above the dive planes lead to the watertight tunnel that leads up through the sale to the hatch above. The sail is metal but not pressurized. Inside would be a pressurized tube with ladder. I'm not a sub person either, but as a kid I built one of the cutaway sub kits and I think it had such a structure. In the Seaview case it would presumably be a slight widening, something like an "escape trunk"
Don't know what the bumps are for.
On a side note, I question the naming of the flag pole on the aft end of the sail. I'm sure David Merriman will brutally correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that was an HF radio antenna on a sub.
It has had a flag flying off of it in some shots (can't remember where I saw that) and it is also used as a crane - there was a first season episode where they use it to offload a bomb that goes off right when it hits the water....On a side note, I question the naming of the flag pole on the aft end of the sail. I'm sure David Merriman will brutally correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that was an HF radio antenna on a sub...
21 - 40 of 128 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Hobbyist Forums
A forum community dedicated to all Hobbyists. Come join the discussion about die cast, models, slot cars, radio control vehicles, classifieds, swaps, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
