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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
18" TOS model. FINISHED W/Photos! See pg 3-end

This is the start of an old thread so the best stuff is towards the end. Pictures added 01-02-01 Thanks for looking

(the following was posted over a year ago so if you want to add to the suggestions, pleaes do but for the most part, most of the questions I asked, I have found solutions for thanks to the gyts on this site)

If you want the long question, keep reading, if not and you have a lead on clear nacelle parts for the 18" TOS model please let me know. I can't find any besides the bridge parts. I used polished transparent stone halves for both the bridge dome and the lower sensor. They look cool lit. PICTURES ON NEXT PAGE
As an X-mas gift for my Mom the fan, I bought three more 18" models off <a href=http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-1606754-2202639 target=_blank>eBay</a><img src=http://www.awltovhc.com/image-1606754-2202639 width=1 height=1 border=0> for practice. I think I got them for $10.00-20.00 shipped. I picked up electronics for lighting and sound effects, a base will be made with acrylic and wood and I even have mini-slides from the T.V. series to be backlit and go inside the ship so she can see the crew in a few of the windows.
I went to CultTVman's site first and to many more since. I have over a hundred ref. photos of all the models used for the show along with all the restorations done to each not to mention a few stills from the show. I was beyond confused as to how to make the model look anything like the TOS version (the one of many) I grew up on and she loved. I began to just cut and sand and drill (It's going to be lit well) I'm even watching Sci-fi channel and still learning about the look of the enterprise. For instance, I watched an episode tonight where the three lights that are centered in front of the saucer were shown, only the center of them was blinking white and the outer ones were black. I almost had a mental breakdown.
I soon figured as this was the first model I have ever put together, that I would need some practice. Like I said before, I picked up three more and have made each one just a little different. Some with tons of detail and others with just enough. One is looking just TOS enough to be her X-mas gift.
I'm now at the point where I need to paint them and finding the "Right" color is killing me. Nothing looks right. Even if I get that down, I then have to figure out how to mask off the windows/strobes/running lights and domes. Sure tape might do it or even a latex. But I'm not using fiber optics very much. The windows are a combination of clear glue and resins. Some will be pinstripe tape cut down to size.

Here's my question. I paint the parts, sand the joints, glue them together and then sand the seams. How long can I leave the masking on and which is best and why, before it messes with the surface of the places masked? I still need to weather them so it'll be on for a while while I de-seam the models.

DOn't tell me to get the 22" model. I have one but won't touch it till I get the basics down on these five. One will be done in a disco style with electronicsand glow-in-the-dark paint to match, lights flashing to the music and the like. I'll try to make it look TOS during the day but more funky when the lights go out.
 

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Jabbs said:
. . . How long can I leave the masking on and which is best and why, before it messes with the surface of the places masked? I still need to weather them so it'll be on for a while while I de-seam the models.
Personally, I like the 18" model for a lot of reasons despite its inaccuracies. I think it can look pretty good if fixed up just right.

As to the masking question, it depends on what type you're using -- tape, liquid, foil, etc.
 

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Unless you're doing multiple paint applications on the same mask line, you don't want to leave the mask on any longer than is absolutely necessary. An hour or so is about right. That's usually just enough time for the paint to set up.

Also, when you're pulling the tape off, fold it back 180* on itself so it's flat against the model and work slowly. That will minimize the amount of "pull" on the paint underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
masking

So do I then need to mask for each time I apply a coat of paint? Again when I weather the models?

I agree, the model has a redeeming quality, (18") Not a majestic one but something that can be made beter with a little help. The 22" everyone praises, to me in my humble world is just as bad or worse because it tries to be better. I say Ertl failed on both however they're good enough for the girls I date.
 

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Jabbs said:
So do I then need to mask for each time I apply a coat of paint? Again when I weather the models?

I agree, the model has a redeeming quality, (18") Not a majestic one but something that can be made beter with a little help. The 22" everyone praises, to me in my humble world is just as bad or worse because it tries to be better. I say Ertl failed on both however they're good enough for the girls I date.
No, if you need the same mask line for more than one color on the same side of the line, not on the opposite side of the mask line, then leave the masking tape on until you've finished all your painting of the necessary colors. It's easier than trying to re-mask. But even at that, don't let the model sit for weeks between paint applications...a day or so tops.

Point being, plan your masking so you don't have to keep covering the same area over and over, and do it quickly - put the mask on, do your painting, get the mask off. Don't let it sit for a long time with the mask stuck to the model.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, I'll give it a shot on the first one and if I run into problems I'm sure you guys can save me on the next.
Am I correct in thinking that "Foil" is the same stuff as I wrap my chicken dinner left-overs in?

Has anyone lit the polar lights model? It's the last one I bought and isn't here yet. I heard good things and saw the one done by Thomas models but it wasn't lit.
 

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I love those 18" ships!!

In spite of all their problems....!

I've put electronics into one- actually a Scout variant. Worked pretty good until it fell apart. I guess my epoxy mix was wrong, ultimately.... :(

I have electronics planned for 2 more of the 18" ships. Both have had internal modifications done to varying degrees but need to find more .040 fiber optic as I only have enough for one ship right now.

The only thing really slowing things up is the building of the boards and I have to etch those from scratch. I just haven't felt like spending the time to do that yet, but should do so pretty soon. It's not that difficult, actually...!

Good luck on your ship!!
 

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Despite the flaws, I can't help but have a very sentimental spot for those old kits. I've gotten as much enjoyment as I have frustration at modeling at least two or more of every single release of the AMT kit since the first back in '66. Wouldn't trade that for anything.

I'm gonna miss that thing being out on store shelves. I still have one boxed of every release. I think I'll be buried with them. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I have a reel of .5mm fiber (20-50' I think) that I can't use because I drilled the holes too large and don't want to fill them in and start over. I'll send it if you pay for shipping. I could use some 1mm or 1.5 for the 22"
As far as electronics, Don's L & M has a great deal if you want for iether the 18 or 22" as long as the 18" gets a base to hide it in. I'm an electronic moron and had to enlist a friend to build a set up for me but he's going to build it for the other ships as well in trade for some lasers I had laying around the house. If not for him, I'd go to DLM and get the parts set with the deal for $60.
fokkerpilot Cool work. I wish I hadn't waited till now to start getting into modeling, I mean putting the kits together.
 

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When masking, some modelers use Bare Metal Foil - the hobby product that is a very thin sheet of foil with an adhesive backing. This very thin metal foil produces very sharp separation lines, and can be "molded" over irregular shapes due to the malleablility of the metal used.

If you want to use the stuff you wrap your chicken dinners in, you can - a hobby magazine had an article on do-it-yourself Bare Metal Foil. Unroll a piece of Reynolds Wrap, smooth it out as best you can, then spray it with spray adhesive. Then take paint thinner, make a small puddle in the center of the sheet, and use a squeegee to spread it around the sheet. Allow the thinner to dry, and you have adhesive backed metal foil. It is a messy, smelly process, but it works. Essentially you are just diluting the spray adhesive - it comes out of the can very in a very viscous spray.

Microscale has a foil adhesive that does the same thing, it comes in small, expensive bottles, but will also work.

When Nestles' Crunch bars came wrapped in a thin silver foil, that was used as well - nowadays most candy bars are wrapped in plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I thank you all.
Would a chrome spray paint work almost as well?
Has anyone put together the "Enterprise incident" Model set together? Could I use the sound effects circut board that comes with it for my mom's model as background sound along with the other sounds I have that are button activated? Are the models any good that come with the set? I am thinking of getting one. Bad idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Sorry for any confusion over the size of fiber. It's .24-.25mm It's here for the asking if you or anyone else want's it. I could use something bigger but not by much and it's no big deal.
Today I found a site you all might like to get screen shots of the TOS enterprise and other ships from. Every episode, so you too can have a breakdown trying to get all the details down like I did. The stills are at the bottom of the pages. http://startrek.epguides.info
Every episode from TOS to Enterprise. DS-9 Voyager & TNG has a page and pics. Nice background too if you missed a show. Not like us trekkies would.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh, just a thing I did I thought others might like. This is for the triangle deals on the under side of the saucer section. After cutting masking tape in the right shape triangle (I printed off a decal copy from the net and layed the tape over it to cut it out) and positioning it just right on the saucer bottom, paint the area with a few coats of primer or flat black. I suggest four coats. I know it sounds bad but when the paint begins to or is nearly dry, pull up the tape and you're left with indented triangles. It's nothing I think you guys here don't know but there's probably someone just like me reading this thread and I though they could use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, I just received the polar lights Enterprise. Wow! In like five minutes I had snapped it together just to get an idea of what it would look like once done and it beats the Ertl kits hands down. Just the decals alone put it in a league of it's own.
I can see why one hasn't been lit yet though. It's pretty small. I think I'll get another one just to try and light but it won't be till after I finish with the 22" Enterprise. Tom Sasser did a nice job here.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pictures!

OK so here I am, way after X-mas and still not done but I thought you guys deserved a look at what I have so far.
The base will be finished in two weeks and then Mom can have it. Better right and late than on-time and hacked.
Any Questions? Te seams will be cleaned up when delivered.
Thanks to you all and now oon to the other models I've purchased since starting this one. Damn internet an it's culttvman type sites.
More to come when she's done.
That's a dime in the right-hand side of the pic W/ Spock on right and Kirk on left.
You can see Spock and Macoy in the other. (paint bleed under the mask. I tried to clean it but this was as good as I could do.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
5 Ultra bright LED's in the saucer, three in the hull, one blacklight behind the sensor dish, 2 super blues in the aft caps for the nacelles and some lights from an old piece of junk radar detector for the nav lights but in retrospect. A cool running flourescant tube would do the whole thing sans flashers and nacelles and only cost 10 bucks with adapter from a computer mod place.
The next one will be totally TOS but the third in the line will be all disco baby! Strobes blacklights and effects to music. I'm all a giddy! I hope some of you hate that I'm going this route but it's my ship and so there. Nah nah nah.
 
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