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I just finished my 1/5 scale, 16" LOST IN SPACE B-9 by Masudaya. It's a vinyl kit with detail parts of injection molded styrene. I actually have three of these big kits (found great deals on eBay) but this is the first one I've built up.

http://groups.msn.com/WorldAccordingtoGair/lostinspace.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=182

Since it's molded in vinyl, there was little in the way of real construction...most of it was large, complete assemblies right out of the box. It's largely a painting project so here are those details:

I used an auto touch up lacquer to prime the whole thing. I did a test spray on the inside of the model first because vinyl can react strangely to some paints.

TORSO: I airbrushed Folk Art Metallic Aluminum acrylic for the main body. Used a bit of Windex to thin it and added some Liquitex Air Brush Medium. When dry, I lightly buffed it with some Rub 'N Buff and metallic powder. This evens out the texture but you have to make sure not to buff too much because this shouldn't look like polished metal. This combination was also used on the "footbox".

LEGS: I mixed a dark metallic grey for the flexible part of the legs. This was a mixture of the Folk Art Metallic Aluminum acrylic, Liquitex Mars Black acrylic tube paint and PollyScale USN Blue Grey acrylic model paint. Again, it was thinned with some Windex and Liquitex Air Brush Medium was added.

ARMS: The flexible arms are unpainted...the color looked acceptable and I didn't want to risk flaking paint on the flexible bellows. The cuffs at the end of the arms were painted with a mixture of black and metallic aluminum acrylic (why do so many people paint them silver?). The claws are just red enamel from the hardware store.

CHEST PANEL. The dark background is Liquitex Mars Black tube paint. Texture was added by stippling clear Liquitex Gloss Varnish and Medium over top of the color. The colored buttons were done with anything I had on hand...acrylic and enamel.

TREADS: Model Master Aircraft Interior Black enamel for the treads themselves. I painted the sides of the treads with PollyScale USN Blue Grey in order to give a 3 dimensional character to the 2D molding (the treads are molded as part of the footbox so you have to "fake" shadows).

SMALL DETAILS: things like the head interior parts, sensors, etc. are injection molded plastic and most were painted with enamel.

Both the Badger 155 Anthem and Badger 350 airbrush were used as required. I recently acquired an Iwata HP-B I didn't require it's fine detail capability for this model.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you, Sir. And, having looked at that photo, let me make a necessary addenda. The two sensor ears are painted the proper red and yellow. I guess I positioned the lights in such a way that the glare makes it look like I forgot to paint them!
 

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Awesome work, great character and really well executed. BTW, I just acquired a Badger 350, and have to say i love it. So easy and consistent. Glad to see a finished model done with that brush. Love the look you fot on the torso. Very much like the actual prop.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, I kinda' split the work between the 155 and the 350.

I started out using the 155. Due to my own stupidity, I found it necessary to repaint a portion of the robot (long story but the short version is that I got the paint job wet and ruined part of it). For the repainting, I found the 350 quite adequate.
 

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This model actually has an old style, mechanical voice box and flashing light in the chest. That protrusion from his belly button activates the sound and light. BTW, it's quite comical because half of it is in Japanese.
 

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:thumbsup: Dittos here! Fantastic work!

Any chance of more photongraphs of him?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Masudaya was certainly asleep at the wheel when they designed those claws! Strange how they could make such an accurate model and do such an amateur job on the claws. In the instructions, they suggest that you can use putty to fill in the depressions for a more accurate model. That would help. And, if you did that, you would have enough material that you could file the claws into an accurate shape.

I thought about the claw modification. However, this robot is part of my rather large bot collection that stretches back to the 1966 Remco robot and the 1977 AHI robot. So left the claws "as is" for the sake of keeping the collection as original as possible. But there's no question that they could be better.

BTW, robot fans will notice that the two big failings of the Masudaya were carried forward by Trendmasters who obviously used the Masudaya as a "blueprint" for their LIS robots in the late 90's. The Trendmasters bot also have those rectangular claws set at a funny, flat angle. The biggest sin is the way the arms are splayed out radially from the body. They should be set in farther and should face forward more than outward. Masudaya probably changed the arm angle in order to clear the internal voice box (rather large, 1986 technology).

I actually did take a few more pics of him but I don't think they really show anythng different and, with limited webspace, I just posted the one. But, if anybody wants to see anything specific, I'm sure I can post something new.
 

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Brent, you've inspired me to re-do my own 16" B-9.
However, mine will be the "1st Season version".
As regards those hollowed-out claws, I DID fill them with putty, but after several years, the putty popped out of one of them during a cleaning. When I do my restoration, I'll try thinning the putty with some laquor thinner; hopefully this time it'll adhere longer.
Thanks for the inspiration, and I'll let you know how it turns out.
 

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Make sure to keep the bot out of desert heat. After moving to Tucson, I opened the box to find the vinyl distorted from melting. :(
 

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my trendmasters B-9's arms i pulled them forward and to the middle next to each other and secured them about an inch or so apart with clear fishing line so they look more normal out front.
 
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