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Discussion Starter #1
I just recently made the switch to brushless pancar. I decided to start in 13.5. I ran a few weeks with the box stock 13.5 motor and was fairly fast at my local track (New Castle, IN).

This past week I picked up a new 13.5 pro motor and tried it out. I'm not sure if I found the best roll-out for the pro in qualifying, but my lap times were about the same and the motor came off the track much cooler. In the main I switched back to the 13.5 box stock motor and ran (slightly) better lap times, but I think that is because I found a good rollout for that motor and my car.

I was interested to hear what other people's impressions of the new 13.5 pro were. Have people been running more or less gear on the motors with sintered rotors?
 

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I think the philosophy behind the sintered rotor was to make the motor run cooler. Since BL motors have a ton of torque I would think you could gear up the pro version if it had a sintered rotor. take advantage of the cooler running motor.
 

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Yup. Gear the Pro Motor up at least 3 or 4 teeth. It has the sintered rotor.
I have not ran the Pro Motor but, I have ran the sintered rotor in a regular 13.5. That makes the two of them pretty much the same except the Pro has the ridged can.
 

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Any body know the part numbers of the two mtors? How do you tell the difference when out of the package? Thanks Ralf
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the responses on the motor. I'll gear up and see what it does this weekend.

Here is a good link on Novak's site for brushless motor specs (http://www.teamnovak.com/products/brushless/motor_spec_chart.htm)

13.5 pro is part# 3413. I can't find the number for the older one. It is easy to tell the difference between the 13.5 pro and the 10.5 pro because the timing rings are different colors. 13.5 is orange ring and 10.5 is a blue ring.
 

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OvalTrucker said:
The Pro Motor has an orange timing ring and the can is ribbed.
Thanks got one from Tower about a week ago, didn't say on the site which one it was and was dreading having to buy the new rotor BUT mine has a ribbed can and an orange timing ring! Thanks Ralf
 

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does anyone know the part number for the upgraded rotor? i have the stock 13.5 and would like to upgrade to the sintered rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Didn't run 13.5 this weekend, but let a fast driver borrow a 13.5 pro for the 3rd round and the main. He picked up over a lap with the motor change and it came off the track cooler. Hopefully this it the ONLY upgrade we will ever need in this class.

Let me add that he did have to change his rollout by adding teeth.
 

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Last Weekend We Had Are 13.5 Track Record Reset By An Older Version 13.5 Motor With The Stock Arm. This Record Had Been Reset The Week Before By The New Motor With The Sintered Arm. From This I Would Have To Say That It Was Car Setup More Than Motor That Allowed This To Happen. Forget The Motor And Work On Your Setup And Get To Roll Through The Corners And You Will Be Fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My point of this thread was to see what people's experience has been between the stock and pro version of the motor. We all know that a well setup car is the name of the game. However, no 2 motors are exactly alike and each is going to want something different.

From my personal experience and observation of other racers, the 13.5 pro can run with more gear and come off the track cooler. Does that necessarily translate into better laptimes? Not if the car setup is junk. But what it may mean is that I won't burn out my motor trying to find the right gear for my setup. All I want to see is consistent laptops from start to finish without a huge drop off and a motor that isn't nuclear.
 

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IndyRC_Racer said:
My point of this thread was to see what people's experience has been between the stock and pro version of the motor. We all know that a well setup car is the name of the game. However, no 2 motors are exactly alike and each is going to want something different.

From my personal experience and observation of other racers, the 13.5 pro can run with more gear and come off the track cooler. Does that necessarily translate into better laptimes? Not if the car setup is junk. But what it may mean is that I won't burn out my motor trying to find the right gear for my setup. All I want to see is consistent laptops from start to finish without a huge drop off and a motor that isn't nuclear.
I HAPPEN TO NO THAT WE WERE ALL RUNNING PRETTY MUCH THE SAME ROLLOUT. I BELIEVE THAT THE OLDER 13.5 WAS COMING OFF HOTTER BUT THE NEW ONES WERE ONLY GETTING TO ABOUT 115 DEGREES.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hobbyten, what size track are you running at? The track that I usually run at is a 165' runline. I'm wondering if our experiences are different due to that fact alone.
 

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In my opinion you guys should really put the temp guns away. You'll be a lot better off simply gearing up until your times level out or fall off and then drop back 1 tooth. At some tracks with some setups the optimum gear gets the motor fairly warm at others it does not.

Unless you are monumentally out to lunch you aren't going to burn up your 13.5, even with the old rotor.

That being said, if your track allows the sintered rotor then buy the thing. It's $30 and it's gonna last you into the forseeable future. Not a big investment.
 

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IndyRC_Racer said:
Hobbyten, what size track are you running at? The track that I usually run at is a 165' runline. I'm wondering if our experiences are different due to that fact alone.
THE TRACK IS 62X30 I BELIEVE DON'T NO RUNLINE THE TEMP IS NOT WHAT I WAS CONCERNED WITH JUST SAYING IT DOESN'T SEEM TO MAKE A BIG DIFF WHICH MOTOR YOU USE IT'S MORE THE CAR THAN ANYTHING. KEITH RACKNOR HAD THE RECORD WITH THE NEW STYLE MOTOR AND IT WAS BEAT BY ONE OF OUR REGULAR 13.5 DRIVERS WHO HAS A GREAT SETUP FOR THIS TRACK AND HE WAS RUNNING THE OLD STYLE MOTOR AND WAS BEING PUSHED HARD BY A GUY WITH THE SINTERED ROTOR IN AN OLDER STYLE CAN.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Here's a little update from racing this weekend at New Castle, IN. Monti Panzica out qualified everyone in 13.5 by 2 laps with a stock can and a sintered rotor. Not only did he out qualify everyone by 2 laps, but his TQ was almost 3 laps faster than anything ever run on this track. The sintered rotor does make a difference, but Monti's car was just setup that well.

What does this mean? Nothing really. I still believe that the sintered rotor is the way to go to keep the heat down, but a well setup car will win in the end. I did come to one conclusion at the end of the day. The 13.5 is more powerful than a stock 27 turn motor and you have to setup your car correctly to put that power down on the track.
 

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My impressions from the BRL Nationals were that the sintered rotor did not add much to the 13.5 performance wise. Lap times were right inline with what had been run the weekend before with the old style rotor. You definitely do not gear up .40 with the sintered rotor as some have said. I was geared about a 1 to 1.5 teeth higher then I would have with the black rotor and in hindsight I wonder if I should have even been that much higher.
 
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