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No, thank YOU! That was as far as I went anyway with the filing idea.Didn't want to get started with un-necessary shaving of glue points. Alignment,gluing and clamping will do the job.
_RICH.
 

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The set doesn't have masks for the windows - Lou "Aztek Dummies" Dalmaso is working on those (or will when his kit arrives) in self-stick vinyl.
Ok, possible "stupid N0031E" question here, but why would anyone need to use window masks? If I understand correctly, the windows in the kit are made of clear and smoked plastic and can be inserted through the hull openings after the outer hull has already been painted. Why would anyone need to tape them off? I've never used window masks before so I'm not sure that I fully understand their use. They would make sense to me if the windows in a model kit were molded into the body of the model and therefore non-removable, but on a kit like this where the body can be painted independently before installing the windows, what would the masks be needed for?
 

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The masks cover the windows so you can spray the model without getting paint on the windows. When you are done painting, you remove the masks. No paint on windows and model is color you sprayed on it. This way you can install them and glue the whole thing together before painting.

Also the windows on this kit you have to install before gluing the hull together. They can't go in afterwards.
 

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Ok, possible "stupid N0031E" question here, but why would anyone need to use window masks? If I understand correctly, the windows in the kit are made of clear and smoked plastic and can be inserted through the hull openings after the outer hull has already been painted. Why would anyone need to tape them off? I've never used window masks before so I'm not sure that I fully understand their use. They would make sense to me if the windows in a model kit were molded into the body of the model and therefore non-removable, but on a kit like this where the body can be painted independently before installing the windows, what would the masks be needed for?
The windows are mounted from the inside out on the hull and saucer, so you need to install them before you seal up the kit and paint it.
That’s where the paint mask comes in handy.

Fast typing there Opus penguin!
 

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The other option is a bit trickier, paint the parts first, install the windows and lights, glue it all together, and then do touch up work around the seams.
 

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yes...its called "sub assembling".Putting all the mini puzzles together to create the whole. Touching up afterwards where they have all joined together._RICH.
 

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Anyone know how many RPM the motors spin at in the engines? I've got everything to do my own lighting, just not sure if I should try the spinning engines or not.
 

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Someone told me that 60rpm would be about right. I picked up a number of Precision Mini Gearhead Motors by Sayama (12SM-AT3) for this a while ago. Nice and small (you could get one into a 1:1000 nacelle with a little work), very quiet...

Mark in Okinawa
 

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That's a great help. I think I'm going to go ahead and start with my own electronics, order two of those motors and make the production version first. Then I'll pick up a standard kit later and do a non-lit mirror mirror universe version. :thumbsup:
 

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So, I'm curious about one thing: The build displayed at Wonderfest this year featured a lit hanger bay, along with fantail lighting. However, if you look at the kit, it's clear that it was not designed to facilitate that sort of illumination (at least, not without a great deal of work). Now, I don't mind putting in that kind of work, but I'd love to hear from the builder (E. James Small) regarding how he cut out the areas on the fantail, in particular.
 

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So, I'm curious about one thing: The build displayed at Wonderfest this year featured a lit hanger bay, along with fantail lighting. However, if you look at the kit, it's clear that it was not designed to facilitate that sort of illumination (at least, not without a great deal of work). Now, I don't mind putting in that kind of work, but I'd love to hear from the builder (E. James Small) regarding how he cut out the areas on the fantail, in particular.
I believe the light kit comes with clear parts for the hangar and fantail to light it
 

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I believe the light kit comes with clear parts for the hangar and fantail to light it
That's right. I pretty sure Tom highlighted that in one of his videos. My PE set has parts to fit over the clear bridge and shuttlebay parts to make light-blocking much easier.
 

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Just opened mine up... and it's awesome!
With all the clamor about grid lines, I never expected to see another issue. The secondary hull on my kit has some major dimpling from the internal structure... all over the upper part and some of the sides. Anyone else have this issue? Major filling to correct this! K
 

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That's right. I pretty sure Tom highlighted that in one of his videos. My PE set has parts to fit over the clear bridge and shuttlebay parts to make light-blocking much easier.
I just got your kit and it is great. I am an etch noob so can you tell me with the bridge etch what do i do paint the bridge first , leaving spaces for the console lights, or put on the etch and spray around the clear parts? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Just opened mine up... and it's awesome!
With all the clamor about grid lines, I never expected to see another issue. The secondary hull on my kit has some major dimpling from the internal structure... all over the upper part and some of the sides. Anyone else have this issue? Major filling to correct this! K
My secondary hull is fine, it is the engine nacelles that have all of the dimpling.
 

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I just got your kit and it is great. I am an etch noob so can you tell me with the bridge etch what do i do paint the bridge first , leaving spaces for the console lights, or put on the etch and spray around the clear parts? Any help would be appreciated.
I just got my kit - I hadn't realized how dark the plastic is - my test shot was in pure white, which I'd install by:

  • Mask off areas where the photoetch will be installed.
  • Paint the bridge and PE separately.
  • Attach photoetch.
  • Add decals.
This is also how I'd do it for the clear lighting kit bridge.

If you're lighting the gray plastic bridge, I'd:

  • Drill out the areas to be lit (you don't have to be super-neat as it'll be covered by the PE.
  • Attach the PE.
  • Paint the bridge.
  • Fill in the holes with Micro Krystal Klear of Testors Window Maker.
  • Attach the decals.
For the cutting and such I go through that (with a different kit) in this
.
 

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That's right. I pretty sure Tom highlighted that in one of his videos. My PE set has parts to fit over the clear bridge and shuttlebay parts to make light-blocking much easier.
Yes, it's in the light kit review video. It's too bad that is the only way to get those clear parts, too. I guess one could cast clear resin copies. A simple, clear resin, 'water' kit from Micheal's or similar might do the trick.
 

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Hey ModelMan,
Did the kit you reviewed have major dimpling on the secondary hull and nacelles from the support sectiion inside? It's bad in my secondary hull, like 40% of the surface needs filling/sanding. Al the worry about the primary hull and grid lines, never even thought this would be an issue!
Thanks, K
 

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I have the most Awesome girlfriend in the world. Until we can get the temperature controled museum glass display cabinet ordered next year, she has graciously donated a 300 thread count snow white Egyptian Cotton linen bed sheet upon which I am having the following graphic silkscreened on. She is going to sew me a custom dust cover to place over the ship with it . The graphic will appear on the two lengthwise sides and an Constitution Class Developement Project logo will be silkscreened on the opposite ends.
 
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