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also,
don't worry about painting the fan blades..

my mask set will have black vinyl you can put in those impressions.

nice, crisp lines and no worries about getting the paint on thick enough to block the light
Great minds think alike ... and so do ours :) The PE set has little strips to drop into the indents.
 

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on cults site, it says your big e set has light masks for the bridge , hanger and windows. Is this correct?
Yes, that's correct. It makes it much easier to light the bridge so that only the control panels and displays are lit.
 

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While inspecting the kit, I found that the nacelle cylinders have a few sink marks on both sides along the length that will need to be puttied and sanded. Nothing major, though.







Also, the saucer halves to not want to fit together completely. There is a consistent 3/32" gap all around the perimeter where the two halves join. It's either that the saucer top is a bit bowed up along the edges, or the structural 'wall' or 'ring' in the center of the lower saucer is a bit too tall, and prevents the saucer from closing up. In order to properly join them up, I might need to either remove that same amount from that inside ring, or heavily cement and use a lot of clamps to force the saucer halves together - or perhaps a combination of both.



 

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Discussion Starter #29
I haven't purchased an 'Old School' tube of cement since I discovered liquid cement over a decade ago. However, I think in the case of the pylon supports ,tube cement is the perfect solution to an otherwise difficult problem. It has long drying time allowing for allignment and superior strength.
Thats actually what I did.


I still always keep the old tube glue on hand for times when I don't want a quick fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
While inspecting the kit, I found that the nacelle cylinders have a few sink marks on both sides along the length that will need to be puttied and sanded. Nothing major, though.

Also, the saucer halves to not want to fit together completely. There is a consistent 3/32" gap all around the perimeter where the two halves join. It's either that the saucer top is a bit bowed up along the edges, or the structural 'wall' or 'ring' in the center of the lower saucer is a bit too tall, and prevents the saucer from closing up. In order to properly join them up, I might need to either remove that same amount from that inside ring, or heavily cement and use a lot of clamps to force the saucer halves together - or perhaps a combination of both.
Not sure what your talking about here.
The ring is the intended height so there is no 'compression' in the middle of the saucer.
The test shot I built (version 3) taped up just fine.
No problem.
 

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Thats actually what I did.


I still always keep the old tube glue on hand for times when I don't want a quick fix.
The Testors (or is it Model Master?) liquid cement has a slow drying time and is good for large areas like this that can't be done with the other, quick dry liquids.
 

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Yes, that's correct. It makes it much easier to light the bridge so that only the control panels and displays are lit.
awesome and you have masks for all the windows as well? Also for those of us who havent really worked with etch and masks as well. will the directions be easily understood by us as far as folding and placement. Do we need a folding tool for this set?
 

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awesome and you have masks for all the windows as well? Also for those of us who havent really worked with etch and masks as well. will the directions be easily understood by us as far as folding and placement. Do we need a folding tool for this set?
The set doesn't have masks for the windows - Lou "Aztek Dummies" Dalmaso is working on those (or will when his kit arrives) in self-stick vinyl.

Finger pressure will be fine for folding the few pieces in this set that need it (bridge consoles, displays, and railings). They're out of 0.005" brass with heavy-duty fold lines, so they practically fold themselves.

The only moderately-tough part for first-timers will be the parts on the exterior of the shuttlebay - the fantail and "control room" (at the top of the clamshell doors) as these will need to annealed or rolled to shape. They're not really difficult to deal with, though.

You can view the instructions HERE.
 

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The set doesn't have masks for the windows - Lou "Aztek Dummies" Dalmaso is working on those (or will when his kit arrives) in self-stick vinyl.

Finger pressure will be fine for folding the few pieces in this set that need it (bridge consoles, displays, and railings). They're out of 0.005" brass with heavy-duty fold lines, so they practically fold themselves.

The only moderately-tough part for first-timers will be the parts on the exterior of the shuttlebay - the fantail and "control room" (at the top of the clamshell doors) as these will need to annealed or rolled to shape. They're not really difficult to deal with, though.

You can view the instructions HERE.
From your video instructions I went ahead and purchased a hotplate to anneal the parts. One thing I should ask since I never did this before, do you heat the photo etch before removing it from the spru (so basically this will heat everything), or do you remove the piece and do it? The reason I ask is that smaller pieces (like the shuttle bay parts or the fan blade inlets) that will not fit on the hot plate.
 

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Not sure what your talking about here.
The ring is the intended height so there is no 'compression' in the middle of the saucer.
The test shot I built (version 3) taped up just fine.
No problem.
I'm just simply documenting and reporting my findings on a production run kit. :)
I added photos to my earlier post to illustrate my findings.

I applied blue painter's tape around the saucer edges, and it required considerable effort to get the top saucer to lay flush. The pressure caused some of the tape to break free.

I imagine that the saucer may have to be clamped and cemented in sections, gradually working my way around the perimeter, rather than all at once.
 

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Trek Ace mine does the same! I removed the extras from the b/c deck(teardrop) and lower dome so I could see inside more when together.It defiantly sits together well in the center without any pressure(pencil shaded area on drawing)but has the gap your talking about.
View attachment 163602
I'm thinking with careful,patient alignment,gluing and clamping it will "come together" fine.Don't really want to start shaving down glue point areas.
Pretty much what you've said already,just wanted you to know yours wasn't alone.
When the halves are sitting together the gap is even all around,doesn't look warped.
Just sitting high from center.

Okay I just keep adding on here.Want to try to find whats causing this.
Looking at bottom saucer,the highest point is the "W" shaped piece(the darkest pencil shaded area on drawing).
So I took a black Shapie and outlined the top of the W.
Took a file across the top of it evenly till the marks were gone.It doesn't take much though to remove.
Tried the halves together again.
Repeated this about 4 times till when together I could look inside and see a gap starting (the thickness of paper)with the top of the W and the upper saucer.
Okay this doesn't appear to be the problem area,still have same even gap around when halves are together.
Maybe the "ring" will be next.
 

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I remember someone posting a thread a while back when putting motors in the 1:1000 scale enterprise and said the following motor worked well.

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1096

I'm not sure how noisey they are but I'm thinkning of picking up a couple to find out.
That was me. These are very quiet unless they touch the nacelle (no choice in my 1/1000, its noisy). In the 350 I think they could be sound isolated with rubber or something.

http://www.galaxyphoto.com/jw_en1000.htm
 

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From your video instructions I went ahead and purchased a hotplate to anneal the parts. One thing I should ask since I never did this before, do you heat the photo etch before removing it from the spru (so basically this will heat everything), or do you remove the piece and do it? The reason I ask is that smaller pieces (like the shuttle bay parts or the fan blade inlets) that will not fit on the hot plate.
I typically take parts off the fret and file off the tabs before annealing. Mainly this is because the filing is easier beforehand when you're not prone to kinking a part.

For small parts I use a pair of needlenose pliers* (with heat resistant handles!) to place the parts onto the coils* and move them around a bit to even out the heating, then I transfer them to a hotplate for a nice, slow cool-down to complete the annealing. (Don't quench/fast cool your parts or they will end up re-hardening.)

* I've got an old pair (30+ years) that I bought at Radio Shack when they still had good stuff. They're closer to being foreceps than pliers.

** I've found that a coil-type hotplate works better than the new solid surface ones - though my coil type is also way more powerful (1100W vs 800W).
 

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Trek Ace mine does the same! I removed the extras from the b/c deck(teardrop) and lower dome so I could see inside more when together.It defiantly sits together well in the center without any pressure(pencil shaded area on drawing)but has the gap your talking about.
View attachment 163602
I'm thinking with careful,patient alignment,gluing and clamping it will "come together" fine.Don't really want to start shaving down glue point areas.
Pretty much what you've said already,just wanted you to know yours wasn't alone.
When the halves are sitting together the gap is even all around,doesn't look warped.
Just sitting high from center.

Okay I just keep adding on here.Want to try to find whats causing this.
Looking at bottom saucer,the highest point is the "W" shaped piece(the darkest pencil shaded area on drawing).
So I took a black Shapie and outlined the top of the W.
Took a file across the top of it evenly till the marks were gone.It doesn't take much though to remove.
Tried the halves together again.
Repeated this about 4 times till when together I could look inside and see a gap starting (the thickness of paper)with the top of the W and the upper saucer.
Okay this doesn't appear to be the problem area,still have same even gap around when halves are together.
Maybe the "ring" will be next.
Thanks, Rich.

After carefully examining the top saucer, it looks as if the outside edge curls upward ever so slightly, causing the gap along the edges. This could be just because it is such a large piece being pulled from the mold while still warm. I'm not concerned with the height of the inside ring 'spacer' of the lower saucer any longer. Mike was correct when he stated that it was the right height - it is.

The best strategy still looks like gradually clamping and gluing the outer edges a section at a time. Then, if the teardrop area is open, applying liquid cement with a brush to secure the inside 'spacer' ring to the top by capillary action - if you choose to do so.
 
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