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Hey, has Squadron Green gotten better? I recall back in the old days it was common to thin it a little with Testor's Liquid cement. It tended to surface set pretty fast. Of course back then I probably applied it too thick for what I was doing. It did tend to dry out in the tube. So is it better?
Yeah, any lacquer-based putty needs to go on very thin, because lacquer. :) I find it excellent. They're apparently both the same formula, just colored differently.

Just plain old MEK + styrene sprue cut into 1/4" - 3/8" lengths.
Pour MEK into clean glass jar, add sprue bits to fill, place lid on and tighten.
Shake well. Let set overnight. Open and stir into putty. Add more glue or sprue to thin or thicken to desired consistency.

Disclaimer: For adults only. Use adequate ventilation and proper filtering apparatus when using MEK. Exposure may cause cancer in California. In other states, the probable outcomes may vary.

I've been using this successfully for many years. I will also use bondo, spot putty, Squadron putty, and epoxy putty depending upon material, size and subject matter. For styrene, this is my go-to source - and it's cheap. :)
MEK -- methyl ethyl ketone? [yep -- just read up on it. when my current stocks run out, I'm going to be replacing a few things with cheaper same things. :) ]

Okay, break's over. Back to the Enterprise, having taken a pause to paint Scotty's face and hands. Love the Archer eye decals! :)





Not sure why the highlighting in the hair isn't reading in the photos, but it's there.
 

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So on the bright side, the weathered saucer is growing on me. Really starting to like it. On the down side, my wife was hit in my car by a hit-and-run jerkwad and has a sprained ankle, and my car is totaled. So I had to take today off work and, you know, deal with stuff. But on the bright side, I got Scotty's torso nearly done. Future coated and ready for final touchups. Painting is getting easier. The hard part was chopping him up in the first place. Them Aberdeen pub crawlers put up quite a squawk! :p

Back to the E this weekend -- finishing the hull coat on the lower saucer and hopefully other parts too. :)

 

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Geeze, sorry about your car but that's some 'watching over you' stuff if the car is totaled and all she got was a sprained ankle.

Stuff can be replaced. Life can't.
 

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Geeze, sorry about your car but that's some 'watching over you' stuff if the car is totaled and all she got was a sprained ankle.

Stuff can be replaced. Life can't.
Thanks, Steve. :) She was just entering a turn when they hit, so she wasn't going very fast. The airbag didn't deploy, so she was well below 40 mph. That said, you're absolutely right -- it's only a car. Still got my lady. :)
 

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Okay!! Mixed bag of quality this time, but the results are good and I learned something.

Started out putting down the OD mask, after several attempts to line it up properly.




Masked it in all around and gave it the red stuff I mixed...



And here's where my problem began --

I remasked for the yellow arrowhead too soon, and went right ahead and shot it on...



But since I didn't let the red paint dry, the remask left gum behind.



Cleaned it up with mineral spirits, which got the gum without harming the acrylic paint (good reason to pick acrylics over enamels). Left behind some prodigious yuck.



First round of touchups. Gonna set this aside till next time, finish touching this up, and lay those frame member decals on there. Yay!



Now I can go do the hero side without screwing it up. At least not this way. :p
 

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What I use for this purpose is Scraft Artise Washi Masking Tape. It's about as low tack as you can get. The only drawback I find is there isn't much selection for different widths.

Greg
 

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What I use for this purpose is Scraft Artise Washi Masking Tape. It's about as low tack as you can get. The only drawback I find is there isn't much selection for different widths.

Greg
It's not my tape, there's a secondary vinyl mask that you use to cover the red bits when you paint the yellow. I just didn't wait for the paint to fully dry first. The vinyl didn't leave behind any gum anywhere else and my tape never does. In fact, I covered the rear of the stripe with my tape for this, and nothing happened.

The tape I use is this yellow RC stuff I get from my LHS for $2.98 a roll, fantastic stuff, never lifts paint or leaves gum. Great edges. Love it. I'll post the name next time I go.
 

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It's not my tape, there's a secondary vinyl mask that you use to cover the red bits when you paint the yellow. I just didn't wait for the paint to fully dry first. The vinyl didn't leave behind any gum anywhere else and my tape never does. In fact, I covered the rear of the stripe with my tape for this, and nothing happened.

The tape I use is this yellow RC stuff I get from my LHS for $2.98 a roll, fantastic stuff, never lifts paint or leaves gum. Great edges. Love it. I'll post the name next time I go.
Drafting tape is good, too, if you can still find it. What's "drafting tape," you ask? It's a low-tack tape that we used to secure paper or vellum to drawing boards when using T-squares and triangles and ruling pens in the pre-CAD days of yore.
 

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Drafting tape is good, too, if you can still find it. What's "drafting tape," you ask? It's a low-tack tape that we used to secure paper or vellum to drawing boards when using T-squares and triangles and ruling pens in the pre-CAD days of yore.
What's a pen? :p

They carry drafting tape at Michael's, but it's expensive.
 

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They carry drafting tape at Michael's, but it's expensive.
But it'll last nearly forever if stored properly. I had a roll of Scotch drafting tape I bought while in college some 45 years ago, and over the next 35 years it moved with me from Texas to Kentucky to Connecticut to Ohio to Oklahoma until I used it all, and at the end it was still almost as good as it was the day I bought it.
 

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Hey guys, update -- I'm slammed at work and slammed at home, not sure when I'm getting back to my E. It may be another month or so. Sucks. :(
 

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Asalaw, or anyone, I am looking to match the accents to a color (the dark gray accents) and since we have not heard from Gary about the color mixes to get the colors I was going to attempt to do so myself. For a base I got RAF Dark Sea Gray...that being said how close do you think that is and should I lighten it a bit or darken it? In addition, I was wondering what color combo you have used for the turbo lift green?

Thanks in advance gentlemen!

Ben
 

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Asalaw, or anyone, I am looking to match the accents to a color (the dark gray accents) and since we have not heard from Gary about the color mixes to get the colors I was going to attempt to do so myself. For a base I got RAF Dark Sea Gray...that being said how close do you think that is and should I lighten it a bit or darken it? In addition, I was wondering what color combo you have used for the turbo lift green?

Thanks in advance gentlemen!

Ben
I don't know what to do with that RAF color, but here's the link to the Tamiya formulas I posted for the gray accents: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-science-fiction-modeling/378454-1-350-tos-enterprise-building-tips-tricks-137.html#post6227978 These are very close matches to the accent gray color chips called out by the Smithsonian, which are exact matches to the model (I kid you not -- I checked).

The turbolift color I matched to was Testors SAC Bomber Green, #1993, which I then lightened about 15% with flat white. That's just a guess based on the Smithsonian description. They call out the FS color that the Testors paint matches to, and then say the actual color is lighter and I think less green, IIRC.
 
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