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Not much progress today, spent most of the day on the Caped Crusader. Looks like I'll make my Tuesday goal to post it.

But I did get some starboard nacelle detailng done. I'm only lacking the aft brass vent, that'll go in tomorrow morning, then weathering the trench so I can install the inboard intercooler. In the picture it's just in place, not glued yet. Starting to look like a starship...





The center "towel bar" of the inboard intercooler feels overweathered to me, even though the one on the 11-footer is heavily weathered. But that's why I started with the starboard nacelle. I'll be displaying the model starboard "hero" side toward the viewer, so any mistakes or bad choices on the port side won't matter as much. ;) So I may not weather the port inboard intercooler quite as much, and that'll be the one facing starboard. ;)
 

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Nice work Asalaw...I personally am going for a "brand new" out of the drydock look...I want the pristine E for my display. I understand though going for the current filming model look!
Anyway, what mix did you use for the gray highlights? Like I said I am waiting to hear something from Gary, but I am all ears to what you have going because it looks super close to me!!!!

I also am going to be able to have some more time with my model in the coming weeks as I am going to put up some progress photos of my own!

Thanks for all the info, it is very helpful.

Ben
 

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Nice work Asalaw...I personally am going for a "brand new" out of the drydock look...I want the pristine E for my display. I understand though going for the current filming model look!
Anyway, what mix did you use for the gray highlights? Like I said I am waiting to hear something from Gary, but I am all ears to what you have going because it looks super close to me!!!!

I also am going to be able to have some more time with my model in the coming weeks as I am going to put up some progress photos of my own!

Thanks for all the info, it is very helpful.

Ben
Can't wait to see it!! :smile2:

I got the accent grays from the Pratt & Lambert color fan called out by the conservators in Revealing the colors of the Enterprise.

Then I came as close as I could with Tamiya paints, and I think I got to about a 98(ish-kinda)% match. Anyway, close enough for me. :)

Here's my first post for the light gray mix: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/6223881-post2052.html

The second post for the medium gray: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/6224065-post2053.html

The third post for the dark gray: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/6227978-post2054.html

I was kinda surprised by how brown they seem to be, but I took the book to the model and compared, and they're a dead match, just as the conservators said (or more specifically, "No adjustment needed"). It's only when you see them in the context of the hull color that they make sense.
 

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"Scotty, the starboard nacelle trench is filthy! Send a redshirt out to clean it at once!"

"Aye, sir -- eh, should there be a crewman in it, or should I just jettison a shirt?"

"I trust your judgment, Scotty." :p

 

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I gotta do it. I gotta say it man. No fear, no shame, just putting it out there, here we go...

SPPPAAAAAAACCCCCEE MUDDDDDD!

I am not sorry. :)
 

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Yay!!! The photo makes the stripe look much greener than it is, but having said that, it's probably too green. Might wash it with a little clear blue tomorrow. :)



Uh... or tonight... I guess...



I hope I can restrain myself from doing the light mist coat of hull color over it till tomorrow. Watch this space. :p

EDIT --

Or not. Maybe one day I'll learn to control my impulses. But not today. :p

 

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I don't want to be too nit picky here but since you've went to such efforts in color I will go ahead and mention this. It is something I've noticed in many builds and there is a variety in how it has been done.

The intersecting line of that dorsal color intersects the top window and splits it from the top right to bottom left. The next intersection in the middle window pretty much covers the entire window.

The way I did it was use the top window intersection corners and extended the line down which gives the second window fully covered, if I explained it well enough.

Greg
 

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I don't want to be too nit picky here but since you've went to such efforts in color I will go ahead and mention this. It is something I've noticed in many builds and there is a variety in how it has been done.

The intersecting line of that dorsal color intersects the top window and splits it from the top right to bottom left. The next intersection in the middle window pretty much covers the entire window.

The way I did it was use the top window intersection corners and extended the line down which gives the second window fully covered, if I explained it well enough.

Greg
I think what you're saying here is that Asalaw doesn't need to make the blue/green wider so much as change the angle? That the angle of the paint doesn't quite follow the angle of the leading edge?

Because I can completely see Jefferies doing that.
 

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I don't want to be too nit picky here but since you've went to such efforts in color I will go ahead and mention this. It is something I've noticed in many builds and there is a variety in how it has been done.

The intersecting line of that dorsal color intersects the top window and splits it from the top right to bottom left. The next intersection in the middle window pretty much covers the entire window.

The way I did it was use the top window intersection corners and extended the line down which gives the second window fully covered, if I explained it well enough.

Greg
Thanks so much for recognizing the color efforts-- that means a lot! :)

I'm aware that the location of the line is off, and it was deliberate -- I have a very good, straight-on shot of the 11' model's dorsal. However, lining up the line that way causes it to tilt unacceptably (to my eye), whereas the line on the 11' model looks nearly parallel with the leading edge. So I split the difference. In other words, I was more concerned with the bird's-eye view than the exact location of the line relative to the windows.

I think the 1/350 windows may be a hair farther away from the leading edge than on the 11' model; in any event, it just doesn't look right to me when I use the windows as a line-up guide rather than the geometry of the leading edge. I suppose it could be a distortion issue with the photo...



EDIT --

You guys got me thinking, so I did this comparison. I corrected for the difference in lens and perspective as much as I could, and I see I'm much farther off than I thought I'd be. I may yet adjust the line, but it'll have to be another compromise, since, as I said above, I don't want the line to tilt too much away from the parallel so it looks wonky.

 

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What I mean to say is the dorsal line needs to be shifted slightly to the left.

This shows the line the dorsal color intersects with.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g404/dmon5/Dorsal_windows-leading_edge_zps632bbe7a.jpg
Yes, slightly shifted, slightly wider and per asalaw's photo compare a little change in angle.

Plus the concern that the windows on the model may be a bit 'off' compared to the 11 foot miniature.

(some would go whole hog and fill them in and cut new ones, I don't think that's a thing asalaw plans on doing. yet. :) )

But to go to something mentioned 'later' (actually above this post), I think that the slight angle difference (not perfectly parallel to the leading edge) actually matters, because it's all about proportion and balance and that 'stage make-up' nonsense I keep going on about. Tapering the blue/green line helps prevent the eye from creating 'droop' of the saucer.

If the paint line stays parallel to the edge it'll make it look like the saucer isn't sitting right. I'm pretty sure about this.
 

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If I'm understanding correctly. It doesn't appear to me that the dorsal line is parallel to the edge but rather an angle. This is what I wanted to accomplish on my 66".

I haven't seen it in person and only have pictures to go by, including some screen caps. I used as a guide the images of the scaled drawing identifying colors that apparently is on display with the model. It is the "Design History of the 11-foot studio model".

A far as I can tell by screen colors and photo printing that dorsal color is fairly close the "Duck Egg Blue" with some tinting.

Greg
 

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Yes, slightly shifted, slightly wider and per asalaw's photo compare a little change in angle.

Plus the concern that the windows on the model may be a bit 'off' compared to the 11 foot miniature.

(some would go whole hog and fill them in and cut new ones, I don't think that's a thing asalaw plans on doing. yet. :) )

But to go to something mentioned 'later' (actually above this post), I think that the slight angle difference (not perfectly parallel to the leading edge) actually matters, because it's all about proportion and balance and that 'stage make-up' nonsense I keep going on about. Tapering the blue/green line helps prevent the eye from creating 'droop' of the saucer.

If the paint line stays parallel to the edge it'll make it look like the saucer isn't sitting right. I'm pretty sure about this.
I have actually sanded it back and reapplied the hull color, and I'm going to remask with the new line I figured out. It's a difference of roughly 2mm back at the top, and maybe 4mm back on the bottom -- I was fairly far off on the bottom and it affected my perception. It still won't be exact, but it'll be better. Nope, not cutting new windows. Not worth the candle. Besides, I can't be sure I'm right about that, nor which way to correct things anyway.

If I'm understanding correctly. It doesn't appear to me that the dorsal line is parallel to the edge but rather an angle. This is what I wanted to accomplish on my 66".

I haven't seen it in person and only have pictures to go by, including some screen caps. I used as a guide the images of the scaled drawing identifying colors that apparently is on display with the model. It is the "Design History of the 11-foot studio model".

A far as I can tell by screen colors and photo printing that dorsal color is fairly close the "Duck Egg Blue" with some tinting.

Greg
I wasn't 100% happy with my color, either, so I'm going to revisit my mix. I have seen the 11' model many, many times, and looked at the same stuff you have, and I'm still not sure what I'm looking at. The dorsal is under the saucer's shadow at NASM, so it's extremely difficult to figure out what you're looking at, even in person. And digital photos are the FIATs of color reference, so all I have is a very thorough and detailed collection of unreliable data. :p

Nearest I've been able to figure out is to lean it bluish and tint over with hull color. I think. Maybe. :p
 

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I can't help but think that paint needs to tend more to the blue.

Might I suggest a paint test before going to the parts? Hull color, then the more blue dorsal stripe color, and then see what green tint overspray does to it.

Darn it. Now I'm thinking about the bluescreen and maybe that stripe does need to be more green than blue. But the pilot version 'all blue' didn't seem to have...wait, no, we don't know because we never really saw the dorsal of the 11 foot miniature in the pilot...

nerts. all this stuff, the knowledge, gets so darn confusing in these discussions! So, solution. Paint it so it looks good to you. Use the 11 foot miniature restoration as a guide but change things that look better to you. It's your model. :)

(I still think dorsal stripe should be more to the blue :) )
 

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I can't help but think that paint needs to tend more to the blue.

Might I suggest a paint test before going to the parts? Hull color, then the more blue dorsal stripe color, and then see what green tint overspray does to it.
That's exactly what I did yesterday -- but today I'm going to do it off the model... :p

EDIT

WOW!

That worked out nicely. This time I went back to my pre-mixed blue-green, which was based on Pantone 2218 C, which was the nearest the FS color called out by the Smithsonian translated to using online color engines. Mind you, they said it "requires thinning to a very transparent wash," which I did, and the results were what I was looking for:



And here we are:



So apart from weathering, I'm sticking a fork in this. Checking the gate... gate is clean... camera moves. :)
 

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You got it that time. The window positions look fine to me, but the height of the windows is off. And how did that one bottom window get narrower than the others?

 

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Well, it looks perfect to me, Because it looks just the same as mine :) . From every picture I've seen there Does seem to be somewhat of a taper to that dorsal.

I don't know your mixture but I doubt there is much difference at all from what I came up with, starting from Duck Egg Blue.

I think it somewhat resembles a turquoise shade type color.

I Do think you have come so close any further attempts would be fruitless.

I don't know if its the optics but that small window on the left panel Does seem a bit narrower. It would be easy enough with a straight edge to find out and using a file to widen it out a bit. It wouldn't interfere with the existing paint. On the other hand I understand the window inserts are premade so that makes any change moot.

Regarding the side by side images above and the color saturation. It depends on what clip a person looks at in the series since there are times when the dorsal looks much brighter than the current model reflects.

Greg
 

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You got it that time. The window positions look fine to me, but the height of the windows is off. And how did that one bottom window get narrower than the others?

That's an issue in various places around the model, especially on the secondary hull. The windows have flashing in them (especially the round portholes). It's an outstanding kit, but not flawless. I use the ol' hobby knife trick -- shave away a little plastic, slice through a finger, scream, wipe it up, bandaid, cry, repeat. Eventually it all gets fixed. :p

Well, it looks perfect to me, Because it looks just the same as mine :). From every picture I've seen there Does seem to be somewhat of a taper to that dorsal.

I don't know your mixture but I doubt there is much difference at all from what I came up with, starting from Duck Egg Blue.

I think it somewhat resembles a turquoise shade type color.

I Do think you have come so close any further attempts would be fruitless.
Yup. Hence the fork I stuck in it -- even when it's not perfect, you get to diminishing returns on future attempts, so you stop. :)

I don't know if its the optics but that small window on the left panel Does seem a bit narrower. It would be easy enough with a straight edge to find out and using a file to widen it out a bit. It wouldn't interfere with the existing paint. On the other hand I understand the window inserts are premade so that makes any change moot.
I have tiny needle files I used successfully on the B/C deck, but occasionally I use the hobby blade/lethal weapon method described above. :p
 

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WOOHOO!!

Both inboard nacelles finished, and I love 'em. Here's the hero side:



Wee bit less weathering this time around. Here's the paints I used for the drybrushing:



Also, got the nav deflector assembly painted, and it'll get glue today. I'm really starting to fall hard for these Testors metallics. They look incredible, and the shades are suspiciously close to what's on the 11' original...





And finally, it has begun -- baby steps, in scale with the 1/350 kit so I can just use my calipers for exact measurements...



When it's done, I'll make a thread for it (that'll be a while, though).

I'm almost ready to hit all the remaining hull pieces with hull color, and sub-assemblies are nearly done. After hull color, it's (GULP!) OD masks and livery, and then...

HOIST THE MAINSAIL!! JIGGLE THE JIB!! POOP ON THE POOP DECK!
I get to clear the decks for the electronics -- phase two! (Phase one was underpants. Phase two: ? Phase three is profit!!) :p
 
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