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Hi folks --

I have a set of decals for the mini Seaview, and a color foldup interior printed on glossy photo cardstock. Cutting it out is not for the feint of heart (and my eyes are not what they used to be), but it looks great installed!

Lighting is NOT included, though... More info can be found on my website www.tsdsinc.com .

Drop me an email if you have any questions! [email protected] .

--Henry
 

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Great Henry:thumbsup: really good to see thanks:), my order is on the way. Just a thought any plans for a four window version for those of us who still have a PL version to build. again thanks - Mike:wave:
 

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I have the earlier set of the decals and they are excellent! This version looks even better (lighter colors and more stuff on the sheet). I should get those this week...

The TSDS decals go down VERY well. I used Solvaset, which is a strong set/solvent solusion. It doesn't turn the decals to total mush, but it does suck them down into the hull limber holes, or pull them down over raised details like hatches and doors.

As a heads up on the limber hole decals... cut them into small sections and apply them individually. Common sense sort of dictates this... but lazyness dictates trying to stick big rows of the decals down at one time. They line up fine if you cut them into sections...

Excellent stuff!
 

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Great Henry:thumbsup: really good to see thanks:), my order is on the way. Just a thought any plans for a four window version for those of us who still have a PL version to build. again thanks - Mike:wave:
I'll do one if you want one. Send me some reference photos if you have any.

--Henry
 

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Looks great! Story of my life. Just finished my Seaview. Now I've got to build another one with this cool interior and lights!
 

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I just got the new improved Seaview decal set and they are VERY good. You shouldn't have any problem using them, although there are a couple of tricky areas.

First, if you don't know, you have to cut out each decal individually from the large sheet. Some things like the pairs of missile tube doors LOOK like you can just stick them on as a large decal, but you can't/shouldn't. They are printed to fit the sheet not the kit.

You don't have to cut super close to the image in most cases, and actually having a little clear excess around the decal makes them drape around raised detail easier.

Cut the limber hole decals into individual sections so you can align them properly. Oddly the rear propulsion tube vent decals are much much too tall! The length is fine but the height of the upper and lower vents is off. I cut them in half length wise and they fit fine. Its not a big issue to fix and sort of obvious if you look at the kit and then the decals that are supposed to fit the kit vents.

The baffle decal that goes behind the prop can be installed after painting, which makes painting and masking easier! Just poke a little hole in the middle for the prop shaft!

I did not use the sail port decals as they are for the movie sub which had windows on the sail as well as the nose (like the Aurora kit). The sail door/hatch decals fit great on top of the kit hatches. You do need to cut those close on the bottom.

The Flying Sub bay door decal is a touch wide. I would trim 1-2mm off EACH side. The length (front to back) is fine. I didn't trim mine and its not a big deal.

The name plate is really nice. If you soak the decal off the backing, it fits the recess on the kit name plate but doesn't really overlay the molded letters well. I would solve this by 1) turning the kit part over, removing the pins and applying the decal to the back 2) sanding the front of the kit part smooth 3) cutting the decal out but do not soak it off the backing, and glue it over the plastic part's raised letters or 4) cut a new flat plastic name plate from 2mm thick sheet styrene (which is what I did). There is a nice large optional name plate decal as well.

The decals respond very well to both Micro Set/Micro Sol, and Walther's Solvaset. I like Solvaset becuase its a one step process to make decals shrink in place. You just apply the decal, position it properly, and then flood Solvaset on top and all around the edges. DO NOT TOUCH IT NO MATTER WHAT. When dry the decals suck down tight to the model. Micro Set/Sol is a two step process... you apply Micro Set under the decal, position the decal on the model, and then put Micro Sol on top. Both brands of decal fixatives worked well on the TSDS decals. The decals are really top quality and even with Solvaset, which can melt many decals into a mushy goo, you could carefully wet and reposition the TSDS decals. I was surprised also the TSDS decals stuck very well to bare, un-painted plastic. Most decals need to stick to paint.

To make easy window frames for your Seaview, paint a spare section of the decal sheet in the same grey you used for the Seaview hull, and when dry cut it into thin strips with a straight edge and knife. Now you have decal slivers that will go right over the molded kit center braces.

I was really impressed with this set and they are well worth the reasonable price.
 

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Just a thought any plans for a four window version for those of us who still have a PL version to build.
I'll do one if you want one. Send me some reference photos if you have any.

--Henry
These screen grabs are all I could find Henry, many thanks if you can do anything it will be appreciated.

-Mike
 
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