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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I bought a bunch of Scalextric tracks, and went digital.. BUT, I'm looking for a universal system for ALL tracks larger than HO. If you flip over the Sport track, there are circles, 1/2 inch diameter, that you can put dowels into instead of the plastic crap they give you for banking turns. I cut a bunch, 1/2 inch intervals, starting at 3/4 inch. They work GREAT on floors and carpets, even if the track slides a bit now and then from overactive participants. You can snug up loose ones with a wrap of electrical tape. That said, the cost for barriers/aprons/skirts for any of these large sets are almost as much as the track itself. Since I'm on the floor for now, and seriously in need of aprons, I'll have to make them myself. Warped/damaged plywood is up to half off at most lumber stores. Usually 25%. My track is 5/16 thick. Here's my thought: Buy a 1/4 inch thick sheet of plywood, some glue, and some 5 X 7 aluminum flashing sheets. Trace out an R2 border on the wood, and cut out 2 of them, 1 for the top, 1 for the bottom. Drill 3 1/2 inch holes in the bottom to hold dowels. Cut the flashing into 1 inch strips, glue it between the 2 sheets so it sticks out just far enough to touch the 2 dowels in a curve section. This lip will hold the track at the right height. A pair of rubberbands to hold the apron snug to the track. There's a 1/16 drop between the track and the apron. And the wood isn't an ideal surface. Some kind of covering needs to be glued to the wood. I'm thinking maybe a foam rubber? Or maybe cut open an innertube and use contact cement to glue the clean side up? I'm at a loss. Someone out there somewhere must have a solution.. I even thought about adding sand to flat black latex paint and painting it.. I want the surface to be a bit different from the track. It is on real tracks, so why not here. It's a bit expensive, but there's also a faux finish sand paint. I used it on some planters before, and they look like sandstone. Everyone here has been great so far, and I've tried to reciprocate. So, anyone with a different manufacturer track, please add a photo of it, along with dimensions and a ruler next to it. We need to see the track curve up-side-down, and to know the thickness. If any of us have ideas on how to make aprons for it, we'll all help.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to mention that when cutting the dowels, cut 1 end at 90 degrees(straight across in the miter box), but the other end should be 10 degrees off center, call it either 80 degrees or 100. This way, when the bank is tilting (inside lower than outside lane), the peg is sitting flush in the hole. If it's a straight, level incline, the 10 degrees won't affect anything. I was going to take a photo, but can't find my SD card for my camera..
For Carrera track, there's a cross sticking up out of the bottom of the track.. If you saw an X into the top of your dowel, it should fir tight here for extra support.. Not as well as the Scalextric, but for a stationary layout, you can easily bank the track in either direction, or add extra support for an incline.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Later today.. Finally found that &$%# SD card, but need to run out for batteries. I was sooo happy when I got a new cell phone that had a camera you could actually SEE details with.. The first week, I scratched the lens BAD, so I'm back to using my camera for everything. I found an old tire innertube in the basement.. I'm hoping I can show the finished stage too instead of just the plywood & dowels.. I don't know if rubber is the solution or not, but something has to be..
 
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