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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Inspired by Carl_G's thread--

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=367419

--I decided to go for it and get Delta Quadrant's 1/1000 Oberth class model.


I also snagged Alliance's 1/1000 Reliant, but that's a story for another day.



The kit is nice, but has a multitude of accuracy problems, which I've been performing major surgery to address:


* As noted in the above thread, the pylons sit too low, and so the red striping will be broken up.

Also, the secondary hull is isn't tall enough, and is too thin. I've been beefing it up, and added to the leading edge, so that the pylons will now be properly aligned.


* The primary hull's basedeck is too thin. I beefed it up with sheet styrene on the bottom, and replaced the underside cutouts with grooved styrene.

* The rear secondary hull vent cutouts, as noted in the other thread, are of inconsistent depth, and the grooves don't run horizontally as they should. I've been rebuilding the whole area, and replaced the vents with grooved sheet styrene.

* The saucer is too tall, and the inner section positioned too deeply within the center. Careful reshaping has corrected this.

* The various greeblies and such on the inner pylons are missing.

* The outer pylon vents are not angled on the leading edges.

* The hangar door thingies on the saucer are the wrong shape and size. I've been working on fixing this.

* I've been completely rebuilding the impulse engine structure from scratch, based on reference photos and Pat Suwalski's fantastic 1/537 build.

* The supplied decals are nice, but quite inaccurate. I snagged PNT's 1/537 Grissom decals, and scaled them down to 1/1000. MUCH better!



All things considered, this little kit is nice, but has a lot of problems for a rivet-counter like myself.


I'm still not sure how to create the gridlines--pencil? Decals? Hmmm.

I'm also wondering how the heck to paint the saucer basedeck's underside without having to paint the model in subassemblies, then filling and sanding during painting. Hmmm.




Photos coming soon!
 

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I really want an Oberth kit sometime... I've always loved the design of this class of ship, regardless of the scaling issues from TV and the films.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice! How did you thicken up the top of the secondary hull?

Styrene strips around the perimeter, and lots of Apoxie Sculpt, Bondo, and careful sanding/filing.

The stock hull is too thin, too long, and not tall enough--in particular, the leading edge/basedeck is too thin. The thickening of the secondary hull (and the primary hull's basedeck) completely changes the look of the model, and makes it "right".

The tricky part was getting the pylons in place higher up than the stock kit--they snapped off more than once, even using JB Quik Weld. Essentially, the pylons have to mount in place with the bottom edge flush with the top edge of the secondary hull's top deck--which means that the pylon tabs don't go into the mounting notches.

I finally got them to stay in place with a supporting brass rod connecting them, which was snaked through a hole in the secondary hull's top hump, and then surrounded them with JB and Apoxie Sculpt to secure them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Working on reshaping and lengthening the secondary hull's upper hump and reworking the pylons so they're thinner and more angular. Also cut the proper, angled edges into the outboard pylon vents (which have 90-degree angles on the front edges, for some reason).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fine-tuning the shape of the three hangar doors on the saucer, reshaping the saucer (lowering the profile) and heightening the saucer's silver center dome.

Also moved the positioning of the nacelle pylons outbaord slightly. The stock kit has them too close to the saucer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Glued the saucer and nacelles to the basedeck, and am working on the small, L-shaped bits connecting the nacelles and saucer.

Also rebuilding the outer pylons so that the vents have the correct, scribed detailing in them.


Should be ready for a first priming soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep, this little model has been a real pain. Getting the shapes and details right have not been easy.

The base kit is okay, but the changes I've made really make it look much closer to the real deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally applied the first primer coat.

Still some rough spots to work on, but I'm pleased to report that all of my modifications and reshaping efforts are proving to be worthwhile.
 
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