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I just finished routing a non-magnetic HO 'slider' track. The track is kind of 'L' shaped and fits into a 12'x11' area. Lap length is 72 feet.
A 'slider' track is a HO track that replaces the magnetic raised rail with non-magnetic copper tape. The guide pin and solid pickup shoes of HO cars are replaced with a scaled-down version of a 1/32 style guide flag. These Slide Guides are sold by HORacePro. The advantage of this approach is that a) I don't have to deal with the magnet 'issue' in modern cars, b) makes the track a whole lot easier to make.
So far it's been a blast to build. As you can see from the pictures, the routing is complete, and I'm patching the 'divots' and nail holes in the MDF. I should be painting tomorrow.
I'll be using 1/8" 1.5mil copper tape. I would consider braid -- magnetic braid -- if I wanted a magnetic track. It seems that copper tape holds up and sticks well in a home environment - as long as you use latex paint (there is some evidence that you need to let non-latex paint dry for a week or more before installing the tape...)
One of the reasons of using tape is that I can easily take up the MDF and replace it when I want a new layout. Braid is more expensive, both in materials and labor costs to prep the track and install it.
I have significantly more man-hours into the tables and wiring than I have in routing the track. Three more sheets of MDF would run me about $45, copper tape another $50, and I could have a new track on my existing tables with a couple of days work.
In my case, I'm re-entering the hobby and have no existing investment, have not been able to identify a local existing group of racers, and so felt free to do whatever I wanted to.
I agree compatability is a big issue, but not one that affects me.
I considered going either HO scale or 1/32. For a long time I thought I was going to go 1/32 scale, and decided that magnets for magnetic downforce were not for me. However, I finally realized that I did not have the space to build the kind of 1/32 scale track that I would want, so I decided to go HO.
That left me with the decision of how to go non-magnetic in HO. Yes, I could have gone with a standard track and Tjets, but I never really cared for the Tjet. The non-magnetic track -- with modern cars -- was the approach that appealed the most to me. The additional cost of the Slide Guide -- $1.10/quantity 10 -- was not significant in my case.
The challenge of creating a magnetic track is not just installing magnetic rail or braid instead of copper tape. The challenge -- for magnet cars anyway -- is to install the rail or braid with the kind of tolerances that are needed for them.
For example, on Brad Bowman's site, on his page for the International T-Jet track, he writes: "- I don't make these tracks. I have them CNC routed by a local shop, but I make certain they stay within my strict standards, but due to the inherent machining process of CNC routing, rail height will vary from .008" - .018". Which is fine for a T-jet, but on the outer limits for magnet cars."
For my first track, I did not think I could do even that well. Maybe someday...
If one could use the readily available like Tyco, and put a power track every 10 feet, why would one want to go through the process of having a track routed? The thing I don't like about it is, once you do it, it stays like that until you spend the money on another design. No freedom to change it.
Here's a picture of my routing tools. They consist of :
Ryobi laminate trimmer
3 1/2" and 7" router bases made of 1/4" MDF
Trammel (for cutting curves)
Sintra strips (3mm thick)
The Ryobi laminate trimmer is the key to the way I routed. The base of this laminate trimmer/router is 3.5" in diameter, which means the radius of the base is 1 3/4" - the same as my lane spacing.
I first cut my curves with the trammel. That is basically a 4' long piece of 1/4" plexiglas. I mount this to the trimmer, and drill holes in the trammel and insert a nail to cut curves.
Straights I cut with the 3 1/2" router base and a straightedge.
I first route one of the central lanes using the trammel and straightedge. I then insert strips of Sintra into the slot I've routed. Putting on the 3 1/2" router base, I route up one side of the Sintra, and down the other to route the next two slots. I then put on the 7" router base, and route the fourth slot - a piece of cake.
I practiced routing on pieces of 2x4' MDF that I bought at Home Depot, and made most of my mistakes there. I still had a few mistakes on my track - which I listed on my blog -- but nothing that a little filler and re-routing won't take care of.
The last piece of routing equipment is Luf's flexible strip. Basically a 6' piece of Lexan, you bend it into whatever shape you want, and nail it to the track. Again, using the 3 1/2" router base, I route my first slot against the flexible strip, then I take it up and use the Sintra to copy the slot.
All this is predicated on routing a 1/8" slot. A standard track needs a 1/16" slot, plus two rail/braid slots on either side. That's a little more difficult to do, but something that you can do if you really want. I took the easy way out, but as AfxToo noted above, that is not for everyone.
AFXtoo , you get 2 Slide Guides for $2.98 and they will work on plastic tracks with steel rails, I've heard but not seen on Ed's site that he has Slide Guides that now will work on HO plastic tracks and also you can trim the Slide Guides down to work on a plastic HO track, Rauncy
If one could use the readily available like Tyco, and put a power track every 10 feet, why would one want to go through the process of having a track routed? The thing I don't like about it is, once you do it, it stays like that until you spend the money on another design. No freedom to change it.
MCD --
Your points are well taken. In my case, there were things that made me lean towards a routed track:
1. Cost. As I noted elsewhere, I'm just re-entering HO, and have no current investment. I had originally planned to go with plastic track, but when I drew the layout I wanted and added up the costs of all the track I was going to have to buy, it would have cost me over $500 - for a track not as big as the one I routed. It turns out that I've actually *saved* money by routing a track.
2. Smoothness. A long time ago, I raced on a routed track. It was smooth. You never had problems with bumps, too-high rails, dead spots, track coming apart, etc. You can do things to plastic track to help reduce these problems, but unless you add lots of power taps, glue your track together, and solder the joints you will never really eliminate them. And if you glue and solder your track together, you really can't change the layout much easier than you can with a routed track.
3. You can have it your way. In my track, I have curve radiuses from 3" up to nearly 4'. I have 4-lane squeezes and just about any feature that I wanted. No limits.
You are correct that the major shortcoming of routed track is that you can't change the layout easily. However, it would only cost me about $100 and a couple days work to create a whole new layout. It's not like I'm stuck with the one layout forever. I expect that in a couple years, I'll replace this layout with a new one. If I'm lucky, I'll sell the old layout to someone, and might even make a couple of bucks on the deal.
If you want to change your track frequently, plastic track is the way to go. However, if you are tired of the hassles and limitations of plastic track, you might consider a routed track. There is room for both approaches to track construction. Which one is right for you is a question that only you can answer.
Bill...
I apreciate your taking the time to answer my questions.Thanks!!!!!
Until now,I never really gave much thought to doing a routed track.But after reading your replies and some of the info on the links you gave,it is defienetly something I could do.To bad I am too far along $$ and time wise on the project I am allready working on.But there is always next time.
Please keep us updated on your progress.Interesting stuff.
rr
