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The regular and glow kits are nicely done. Both versions do require a bit of clean up, but nothing out of the ordinary for a 45 year old mold. I couldn't tell much of a quality difference between the molding on this kit and the Tomy reissue from the early 1990s.
I repositioned the figure's head and both arms slightly to make him look more like the box art pose. The left arm was simply rotated and the shoulder and cemented into a slightly different position with CA glue. The right arm required some minor trimming of the elbow and reshaping the outer arm bone with some Aves Apoxie Sculpt.
One thing that always bothered me with this kit is the lack of a neck. This means the skull has to sit right on top of the iron collar around his neck, and will face down, unlike the box art picture. I made a simple string of neck vertebra using a piece of the kit's sprue with some grooves cut around it with a sprue cutter. A notch in the top fits into the back of the head, and you can now glue the vertebra into the collar to match the picture on the box.
The Moebius base (white) has the exact same mold flash as the old Tomy issue (grey)
For whatever reason the Glow kit was a bit cleaner molded.
Ok. This is wonderful. And I love the weathering on the skull.
Hey: I've been dying to share this one, though. To make good "scaled" cobwebs, use a "used" Bounce dryer sheet. I got this demo from a good friend at my Fantasy Modeler's Club of SF, and he just pulled the material apart, Elmer's glued it down, and let it dry. For an aged look, he gently dry-brushed a little gray or black.
I kid you not, it is SO much better than shredded cotton balls!(None of my business, BTW, your work is incredible!)
...One thing that always bothered me with this kit is the lack of a neck...I made a simple string of neck vertebra using a piece of the kit's sprue with some grooves cut around it with a sprue cutter...
Excellent idea! I did the same thing the last time I built the kit (the first Polar Lights reissue, whenever that was), except I carved the "vertebrae" into the spare sprue with an Xacto knife and a little sanding. Not too difficult, and it improves the look of that area of the kit if you're building it with the head tilted back:
I wish I had a better photo of it, but you get the idea.
Well, my days of not taking you seriously are certainly coming to a middle.
I have built half a dozen of these over the years and the head position always bothered me. And, honestly, he can be a pretty boring model. Every one I have done to date was black with white and red trim and a grey wall...
It was interesting painting the kit to match the box art. Everything has a sort of painted on shadow where one side is light and the other is dark. I should toch up the shadow I painted on the skull on the floor to make it darker farther up the one side. But oh well...