Tecumseh Carb settings #692508 tech handbook or repair manual modelav602 - HobbyTalk
  
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  #1  
Old 10-19-2008, 11:39 PM
Silverblue58vet Silverblue58vet is offline
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Unhappy Tecumseh Carb settings #692508 tech handbook or repair manual modelav602

I need the carb specs for initial settings for a tecumseh 2 cycle AV 602 #660024F 0061H 3.5 hp or the technicians handbook or repair manual 740047 or 692508 as far as I can determine. I put a carb kit in, but it still seems to die if I take my finger off the plunger intermittenly, or do not prime it periodically. I also now know about cleaning the exhaust, so I will try that also,, will not stay running or idle down for any extended period of time, have slowly adjusted both screws independantly on the carb in and out, but still does not keep running without priming the bulb, or holding my finger over the bulb,, any suggestions, this should have been an easy fix, but the engine had sat outside for a long time. Have cleaned the gas tank and new line etc.thanks in advance SD 612-387-8174
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Old 10-20-2008, 11:40 AM
dawgpile dawgpile is offline
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From the 'sticky post' at the top of the 4 cycle forum, here is the link for the Tecumseh Manual...

http://www.cpdonline.com/692508.pdf

Let us know how you make out!
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Old 10-20-2008, 02:38 PM
Silverblue58vet Silverblue58vet is offline
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Wink

That SEEMS to be EXACTLY what I was looking for,,in my 35 years or so of tinkering and building, besides some of the cussin and deep breathes,, I did that of what it shows in the manual, just WANTED to be sure,, initial adjustment started at 3/4 and then slowly each way until working, and sometimes it would stay, then die after five minutes or so,,depended on how much it wanted to frustrate me it seemed. SO, when after all the adjusting on several different days, letting my frustration settle instead of with a HUGE bottle of JD or scotch,, etc,, I decided to GET more advice! HUGE THANKS,, I now will look at finding a different carb, as I already replaced the diaphraghm and other parts,,,I WILL get it to run, CAN'T is not in my vocabulary, IS it a WORD?? So THANKS again for your help, we're all in this together,,, SD
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Old 10-20-2008, 07:15 PM
dawgpile dawgpile is offline
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SD, glad to see it was what you were looking for. Sure sounds like the idle circuit is the source of the problem. When you disassembled the carb to replace the diaphragm/gaskets, did you blow out all passages with carb cleaner. Could be the idle passage between the needle valve and the throat is clogged. Taking the carb cleaner with the little red straw on the nozzle to direct the flow, I'd spray every single orifice and make sure you see it come out somewhere else. You can see the cutaway of the carb in the manual and see the various orifices. Another alternative is to soak the body in cleaner overnight or put in an ultrasonic cleaner if you have access.

May not be worth your time however if you find a carb at what you consider a reasonable price. It's a matter of what your time is worth to you!

I did notice that the order of gasket vs diaphragm against the carb first is dependent on whether the carb body has an "F" cast in it. For giggles and grins you may want to make sure that is correct, although I don't think that is your problem. It probably wouldn't run at all if this were backwards.

Good luck
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:15 AM
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paulr44 paulr44 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverblue58vet View Post
That SEEMS to be EXACTLY what I was looking for,,in my 35 years or so of tinkering and building, besides some of the cussin and deep breathes,, I did that of what it shows in the manual, just WANTED to be sure,, initial adjustment started at 3/4 and then slowly each way until working, and sometimes it would stay, then die after five minutes or so,,depended on how much it wanted to frustrate me it seemed. SO, when after all the adjusting on several different days, letting my frustration settle instead of with a HUGE bottle of JD or scotch,, etc,, I decided to GET more advice! HUGE THANKS,, I now will look at finding a different carb, as I already replaced the diaphraghm and other parts,,,I WILL get it to run, CAN'T is not in my vocabulary, IS it a WORD?? So THANKS again for your help, we're all in this together,,, SD
For what it's worth, in the 1980's we had American Cyanimid as a customer, with cobblestone walkways, and about 50 Toro S-200 snowblowers with Tecumseh 2-stroke engines. And many, many other Tecumseh 2-strokes, even on Snapper mowers back then. It's a simple carb., and I doubt you really need a new one - very rare. If (a big must!) the inlet needle and seat is new also, and you've cleaned the feed fuel circuits with a good carb. cleaner, that contains xylene (the kind that melts plastic and eats paint and is very toxic), it should work. We had a trick to flush them, on the unit. Fresh mix in tank, flush line to carb. Pull both mixture screws, remembering the smooth one is usually the idle one, press the primer bulb and hold it in, place your fingers over the mixture screw holes, release the primer. Repeat, repeat, until fresh fuel comes out the screw holes. That'd work in at least half the cases, else a good soak + rebuild was necessary. An important point when rebuilding: when you had the carb. apart, did you check the flow through the inlet fitting and seat boss? - an area that often clogs up with gum. Good luck.
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