I copied it right from his post at losibk2.com
Front: long arms, shocks #2-outside, camber link #2-a/1-2 washers, orange springs, 30wt oil, molded 56 pistons, 31mm "droop", plastic pivot + 1/4oz, spindles down, .030" spindle stud shim, -1 camber, 1/2* toe-in, 24mm ride height, battery forward, standard ball stud on steering rack.
Rear: short arm, hubs back, #3-b/3 camber link, shocks #2-middle, white spring, 17.5wt oil, molded 57 pistons, .090" limiting(is like 39-41mm "droop"), steel cvd's/diff, 3* anti-squat (.020" shim = 1*), 23mm ride height, -1/2 camber. JR Z-1 radio, JR 8800S servo, Novak GTX speedo.
***The dogbones can give more steering on higher bite tracks and be better in bumps on rougher tracks as they will slide over/not catch ruts as bad as cvd's do. Moving the battery back .050-.100" is great to get a little bit more rear grip and make the car react faster. On tracks like SRS/Hot Rod try changing the rear shocks to (#2-outside, white, zero limiting + unscrew shocks 1 turn, 667 piston, 20wt oil).