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RVA Hobbies Indoor Carpet Oval/On road racing Richmond,VA

121K views 1K replies 36 participants last post by  sonnyn 
#1 ·
#1,314 ·
yeah dan threaded shock bodys are a no-no lol. I agree with others.. those dang pre-load spacers are a pain. doubt kevin (stumpys) would allow the up-graded shocks. his idea is to keep the playing field level for all b4 racers.
stumpys is having a swap meet/practice day Saturday 4-4-15. come on out run some laps. im trying to get kevin to run an open b4 late model class. I could use some support from other racers wanting to go faster. maybe open esc with a whatever 17.5... let me know what ya think, kevin and dan.
 
#1,326 ·
Larry,
How far is Rosewood and when is the race? I would like to go down and give it a try. Still trying to figure out which class 21.5 or 17.5 to set my car up for. Any trucks or 21.5 guys racing at RVA this Saturday??? I am looking to buy a motor and battery for either. Hopefully the hobby shop has some but I doubt it. Just received my McPappy Dart 2.0 and dying to try it.
 
#1,327 ·
Larry,
Any trucks or 21.5 guys racing at RVA this Saturday??? I am looking to buy a motor and battery for either. Hopefully the hobby shop has some but I doubt it. Just received my McPappy Dart 2.0 and dying to try it.
I'm going to swing by and hand you a few motors you can test out. I have built some fast 17.5's. Couple Vulcan's and the new D4 short stack you can try. The D4 ran 2.9's the last time I tested it at RVA. I cant race Saturday but I should be able to swing by around 4ish and drop them off. If you plan on running against the team Seven I would suggest ordering an R1 Wurks. The D4 Short may be able to keep up, but I have not tested it in a race yet so im not sure if its as efficient.

I have a good battery you can test as well. Its not as good as my "power push" but its darn close. At this track I don't think the difference matters.

remember, its all chassis. Any one of these motors will turn a 2.9 here. :)

Dan Heller
 
#1,331 ·
4.30 to 4.50 rollout should get you close depending on what amp draw your motor is running. We usually are around 2.8 on the amp draw meter. Battery is the SMC 4000 spec pack.
http://muddslidemotorsports.com/smc4025.html

I know it says out of stock, but that is the one you need.

The biggest thing that we cannot stress enough is track time and setup. The motors and batteries are all so similar now that as long as you dont have a complete dud you will be fast. Chassis setup and driving especially on such a small track are key. 90% of the speed is in the front end.
 
#1,338 ·
Something we might want to try that a few other tracks are trying, to keep the motor and speed control costs down. Motor is around $35 and speed control is $55-60 and non-programable, blinky only. Could run it with our current truck body or switch to a car body. Might make it easier for new people to get into pan car racing. Also would eliminate the need to have a $135+ motor to keep up and would also kill the motor of the week stuff.

Sportsman Pan Car
1. WEIGHT: 36oz with Transponder
2. MOTOR:
•Turnigy TrackStar 17.5 Brushless Motor 2270KV (Product ID: 9192000029) Only.
•The stock rotor that comes with the motor must be used.
3. CHASSIS:
•Any 10th Pan Car Chassis.
4. BATTERIES:
•TOUR approved battery used in the 17.5 Super Truck class. (Different battery for the 2015-2016 season).
5. BODIES:
•Protoform Gen 3C, Protoform Gen 3D, McAllister Xfinity Mustang and Camaro.
•Roof Height = 4.25” minimum.
•Bodies must have 3 numbers and headlights and grills for a realistic appearance.
•Bodies to be cut on the body lines.
6. SPEED CONTROL:
•Hobbywing Justock (Part Number: 81020001 or 81020000) Only.
•Stock Single Capacitor included with the speed control must be used. No aftermarket multi-capacitors allowed.
7. TIRES: World GT Spec tires with Purple Stripe.
 
#1,349 ·
I'm fine either way. Going the spec route keeps costs down for new people and will keep us from buying multiple manufacturers motors to see who's the best. Most of the current racers already have the $130+ motors, so I'm good either way. Hope to get some Wednesday night racing going again soon. Gonna race the Short Track Nationals at Rosewood next weekend, then I should be able to race on Wednesdays again.
 
#1,352 ·
why dont we make aout 8 classes and have 1 driver per class!!! we ran 21.5 3 times and quit what the heck make a class and race it!!@!!!!!!
OK, everyone run TOUR trucks then. Wait we can't do that because everyone gets beat by "team seven", and if we don't show up no one wants to race it. You know how it goes, people don't want to be in a class that they can't win in, or accuse us of cheating, so lets make a new one. This is not just at RVA, it is all over the RC world.

I think TOUR Trucks, TOUR 21.5, Street Stock are good. The HobbyKing class is really just a way to get people in the door cheap, just like the Street Stock class. Or you can make it the track class, and have hand out motors (pull a motor at the start of the day and run it), or whatever. Keep the rules tight, and enforce them in all classes.

While I agree more classes kinda sucks, the more people in the door the better it is for RVA, and better chance we have of keeping the track.
 
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