I ran both the mod and stock firmware. I can't remember which stock off hand (there are 2 different ones). I was able to get about the same lap times with both, probably within half a tenth or so, but the mod profile helped the motor run a lot cooler, but had to be rolled out a lot higher. You could feel more "rip" with the stock firmware, but the motor was a consistent 30-40 degrees hotter at least.
I have the HW 120a ESC with the LED program card. Can i program this ESC to a stock "Blinky mode" With this card or do i need to get the LCD box and hook it up to firmware?
the only way to change it to blinky mode is to go through the lap top I believe. If you hook everything up to the card like you are going to program it, and hook the card up to a lap top, you should be able to use the software on the computer to program it. go to the last tap, select stock, no timing from the firmware version (I believe that's what it's called), then hit the upgrade button at the top. when that finishes, you can program from the card or from the computer.
Yes, the laptop is only needed for jumping to different "firmware" versions. The latest firmware for stock with the adjustable timing is V3.0_110930Stock (9-30-11 Stock). The firmware for "blinky" no timing is "V3_508-NO_timing".
Use the laptop and LCD box to download firmware to the speedo. Once the firmware is on the speedo, the LCD box can control all the features (software adjustments) within the firmware. Seeing how Blinky is NOT offered on 930, the laptop is needed to put the firmware on the controller. After 508_NO_timing is on the speedo, the LCD Box can control the limited changable features within the 508 firmware.
Ok, so how's the timing compared to the Mamba and Tekin? The Mamba goes 1-50, the Tekin goes 1-55 and the HW goes 1-64. I currently run the tekin at around 52-53 and get a temp of 180-185 with a TP 13.5. I tried the HW with the 930 stock firmware at 52 in practice and made it maybe 3 minutes before the car shut off due to heat. Killed the stator... Put the Tekin back in with a borrowed stator and ran normal... Any ideas where to start?
look at the boost slope, it you had it set to 50 rpm/degree it could have been to high, try switching to 100 rpm/degree and try that. the lower the boost slope, the more heat is going to be generated.
With 50/degree I'd be at 1000 to 3600. On my Tekin I run 1031 to 2300... Incidentally after switching back to the Tekin and borrowed stator I ran a new personal best lap count and fast lap...
Well since I have not seen a product support thread for the Hobbywing ESC, I am hoping to find some help here.
I purchased one of these ESC and the programming box from CRC last week. CRC shipped it fast and I received it just in time for this weekend's racing.
I figured I would give it a try in the 17.5 Spec class at the Strand today. Last night i was able to solder on the wires, connect to the ESC via both the program box and my laptop. I successfully updated the software to the no timing blinky mode. All that was left was to install it in the car this morning, calibrate the radio and race, however, when I powered it up in the car, all I get is the green led flashing twice with a one second pause in between. Initially I was also getting a "beep-beep" to coincide with the flashing led. The troubleshooting guide indicates that it is an input voltage out of range error. I tried a few different batteries and I know that they were charged. I triple checked all wiring connections, sensor wire etc. All the ESC would do is blink and beep. After a few minutes of trying to figure out the problem, the beeping stopped, but I still get the green flashing led. I cannot communicate with the ESC via the program box or the laptop.
I had to give up and install a different mfg ESC to be able to race today.
I had this happen when I first got mine. Try hooking a 2s battery to it then hool it to the box and laptop. The cut off voltage is 2s as a defalt on some software you need to change it to off before you finnish with the programming or you will need the 2s to get going again.
Yes I found if you use the program box to change settings some how the ESC ends up in 2S mode, kinda weird since it is a 1S esc, but connecting a 2s battery does enable you to regain access to it. I always just use the laptop(with the programming box as the interface) to program.
Yes I found if you use the program box to change settings some how the ESC ends up in 2S mode, kinda weird since it is a 1S esc, but connecting a 2s battery does enable you to regain access to it. I always just use the laptop(with the programming box as the interface) to program.
Thanks for the help guys! I do not have a 2S battery, but I can just connect 2 of my 1s packs in series to bump up the voltage. I will give this a try later today.
There is a bug in their software in the no_timing mode "ROAR Sportsman Spec". You must set the voltage protection to "off" while hooked to the computer. The software seems to assume that it is on a 2s when in that mode and when you power up on a 1s and that isn't off you will get a low voltage error. Just hook it to a 2s and turn off the voltage protection and you will be good to go.
You can set it in the stock or mod software, just not the no_timing. Hobbywing is working on the fix based on their forum.
That is the fly in the ointment so to speak. I would talk to CRC about how they are going to handle warranty.
By the way, the 1s HW speedos placed 1st and 2nd at the Spektrum race in truck. Both were paired with "Team Scream" Revtech motors and PowerPush batteries.
Just got one of these speedos & program box from Lefthander today (Thank you!!).
A couple of questions for those that have the speedo already:
1. the little board w/ the 2 capacitors(?) w/ black & red wires. Does anybody use them? And do they hook up to the pos & neg of the speedo?
2. there was a card in the programmer box saying to download the USB driver & software from the HW site,but got a 404 message in Chinese. Will I need the software & where do I get it? Or will it install when I hook it up to my computer?
If you go to the hobbywing site you can down load software for the programing. You can also do updates as needed. YES you need to use the caps. they connect to the pos and neg from the battery.
Thanks,Brett.
I went to the HW site & tried to download the USB software,but the "Purchase" button wasn't functional. I Googled the software & after another HW website link that ended in a 404 error in Chinese,I found a torrent site that had it. Not quite the way I wanted to download that or anything else,but at least I got it now. Thanks!
I was on the hobbywing web site and looked at the 120a 1s esc, there were two different ones one blue and one black the description was the same. The only difference was 30$. Is there a difference?
I contacted them via online chat and asked that question. I was told there was no difference. The rep said maybe they had more of one than the other and that might be why the price was different, but the prices were the same ($30 different) even when they were out of stock. I do not understand this. I wonder if someday someone will notice and increase the price.
You can also find the usb link software at the CRC website.
www.teamcrc.com Look in the tech section at the bottom of the page.
They are the North America stocking distributor.
Also as for the cap board. I would run it even though you don't have to in fact if you run in a class that needs brakes you should purchase the optional four cap board and run it instead of the two cap. They greatly help the brakes and lower the ESC temp in high load applications.
Brett- Oh okay,I see it now! I downloaded this one because the one I got from the torrent site was V1.63. I have the V1.64 now.
Many thanks again!!
-George
I know awhile back on rctech there was chat that the black one was the real one and the blue one was a chinese knockoff. They had pics of the differences.
I have two of the blue models. They are both genuine hobbywing. Feel free to spend an extra 30 bucks if your favorite color is black. lol. Not sure why one is cheaper, but sometimes its better to not ask why.
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