I just bought a Robitronics Dyno but the disk containing the software won't read. Also the software you can download off of Robitronics site won't let you save or print. Does anybody out there have the software that will allow you to print/save?

Could I get someone to send me a copy? I figured it would be easier and quicker to see if anybody on the site here has the software I need since Robi isn't distributed in the US anymore.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Adam

Venomzx12r@hotmail.com

Go to the Robi site and send them an email, they have good customer support.

or try Robert@robitronic.com

I was hopeing i wouldent haft to go that route. Since i bought it used i figured it would be like pulling teeth to get them to send me the software.

are you using the dos version or the windows version

You have to register the Windows stuff you get from the site.....and it costs like $60 or so....I believe they have the DOS software on the site.

Later EddieO

I was useing the windows version. But robi informed me about the restrictions on the free software. So now im useing the DOS version. BUT i cant get the DOS version ot comunicate!!!!!! :mad: :mad: :mad:

Most of the time it will run the motor though its cycle. But when it try's to pull the info, to display it on the graphs i get a error message. " NO RESPONCE FROM PRO-MASTER---CHECK RS232 CONNECTION" Hell some times it wount even run the motor though its cycle. Then every now and again it works normaly. this thing it going to drive me nuts!!

It sounds more like a hardware issue than a software issue.

My serial port went bad on my laptop and the robi would not communicate with the laptop anymore.
I had to end up buying a serial to USB port convertor and run it through the USB port, sad part is the USB port does not recognize DOS so you are forced to run the Windows software.

well i dont think its the port. The reason being is i use other things though this same port and i have never had any problems. This is on my pc. I dont have a serial port on my lap top. The funny thing is i thought it might be my pc. So i went out and bought a serial to usb adapter. To try it out with my lap top. But no dice either.

Its real random when it decides to comunacate and when it dosent want to. You could try it 10 times in a row and it will crap out. Then out of the blue on the elevinth time it will work normaly.


Erock where did you get your adapter? What was the manufactor? Model number??

The reason i ask is. When i went through the tech support for the last one i bought (serial to USB) They told me the problem was there product didnt support the "HARDWARE HAND SHAKING" proticals. Given the choice i would rather run it though a USB port. I have USB ports to spair. :thumbsup:


Thanks for the info guys, Keep it coming.

Adam

I just made 10 runs on it and it worked perfectly. Then i went out to have a smoke. Came back in and now its craping out again. Man this thing bugs me :mad:

the odd thing is if i use the windows based software it works perfectly every time. with the same cable and every thing.


Think it could be that i am running XP??

Make a DOS boot disk and try that....

I get a message: "error high amp detected" and it won't run the motor. if i run a weak motor it willl run it. I contacted Robi. and got this reply on 2/23/06.

PLease send me your adress I will send you new Eprom with new Software.
May be we can fix it.

Robert

e-mail: robert@robitronic.com

Robitronic Electronic Ges.m.b.H
Guntherstrasse 11
A - 1150 Vienna
Austria

it is now 3/13/06 and i still haven't received anything. i have a very expensive paper weight!!

What are you using for a power, what type of motor?



I get a message: "error high amp detected" and it won't run the motor. if i run a weak motor it willl run it. I contacted Robi. and got this reply on 2/23/06.

PLease send me your adress I will send you new Eprom with new Software.
May be we can fix it.

Robert

e-mail: robert@robitronic.com

Robitronic Electronic Ges.m.b.H
Guntherstrasse 11
A - 1150 Vienna
Austria

it is now 3/13/06 and i still haven't received anything. i have a very expensive paper weight!!

I get a message: "error high amp detected" and it won't run the motor. if i run a weak motor it willl run it. I contacted Robi. and got this reply on 2/23/06.

PLease send me your adress I will send you new Eprom with new Software.
May be we can fix it.

Robert

e-mail: robert@robitronic.com

Robitronic Electronic Ges.m.b.H
Guntherstrasse 11
A - 1150 Vienna
Austria

it is now 3/13/06 and i still haven't received anything. i have a very expensive paper weight!!

i got that same message on my dyno when i tried to run 19turn motors.I emailed Robert and he gave me the same responce as he gave you.I gave him my address and he said he would get the eprom right out....he never did,but after emailing him another time he said he did send it..but sent another one out again for me..it now works perfect.I really cant complain he did it all free of charge and i bought it off ebay.I fried the thing once also and they shipped it right back fixed in light speed...although i did have to pay for those repairs.

Interesting...

I used to dyno stock and 19 turn motors all the time. The only time I would get that message was if I didn't have the motor connected, a spring was to light, a brush was hung, or vary rarely it would seem to happen for no apparent reason at all and the next try would work fine...

I'm very currious exactly what this new 'eprom' does and/or if I should try and get one for my Robi...

Dyno,if your robi is dynoing 19turns just fine you probably have a unit that was purchased after they started using the newer eprom.You could take your box apart and look and see,there are only 2 different eproms and they are labeled as far as which version they are.Dont quote me on the exact number but the older version is labeled like a 1.5 and the newer version is like a 2.0.

Well... My dyno is at least 6 years old I think. I bought it used about 5 years ago... Maybe I'll open it up sometime and look and see what I can see...

if i get a second tonight i will look at my old eprom on the work bench and give you the version number off of it so you can compare.

dynomohum

my robi was at least 5-6 years old that i Had,
it came with the updated eprom.

Looks like I will be getting one of this next week. Hopefully a few of the expert users are still here to help. Im main using it for 27 turn stock motors as I will be tuning motors locally down under. :)

danjoy
definately post, we can help you out, espeically what to look for with stock motors.

Got the Robi few days ago and have a few questions already:

1) Tuning stock 27 turn motors, What voltage is ideal? Im leaning towards 5volts as it doesn't create too much noise and is not too bad for the motors.
2) What amp and torque steps would be ideal for a 27 turn stock motor?
Currently set mine to 14-32 amps and 10-100 torque.
3) I was told that power (watts) and RPM is the important data. Is this correct?
4) Currently using the recommended 17 amp SLA battery but have also heard from a few guys that a 30 amp power supply is ok to use. Is this true? I currently have a 20 amp power supply and was thinking of trying.

I run all my tests at the default of 7.5V, but so far I have only done stock and 19T motors on it. One issue with the Robi is that it tries to "simulate" real RC battery voltage drop under load. The simulation is based on the battery haveing a certain internal resistance (the exact value may be in the manual but I don't remember it). But this resistance is fixed at the value of a 6-cell pack. If you test at 5V instead of 7.5 the resistance is out of proportion to the test voltage. I don't know if this actually makes a difference if you do it the same way every time, but it is something to think about.

I doubt that a 30 AMP power supply will work because even a stocker will pull 50-60 amps on startup. But then again, if you are only interested in the lower amp draw portion of the curve it might be OK.

One of the reasons for using the small SLA battery is so that the battery will have some voltage drop under the high startup load and that means there is not so much voltage drop for the dyno to deal with. A Power supply is designed NOT to have any voltage drop regardless of the load. I seriously doubt you will get good results with a 20 Amp power supply. A 75 or 90 probably would work for stock motors, though you still have the voltage drop issue.

Check out this thread:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=132481

Got the Robi few days ago and have a few questions already:

1) Tuning stock 27 turn motors, What voltage is ideal? Im leaning towards 5volts as it doesn't create too much noise and is not too bad for the motors.
2) What amp and torque steps would be ideal for a 27 turn stock motor?
Currently set mine to 14-32 amps and 10-100 torque.
3) I was told that power (watts) and RPM is the important data. Is this correct?
4) Currently using the recommended 17 amp SLA battery but have also heard from a few guys that a 30 amp power supply is ok to use. Is this true? I currently have a 20 amp power supply and was thinking of trying.

This is not the gospel but it did help me

1) I used 7.5v so I could see more of a difference between motors.
2) Amp steps 18-26 - the average calc I used for Monsters, Co27's Epic stocks -- shoot for 100 watts
I never used torque steps. other than for the 30T step RPM which the robi used to gear. I found it more precise than using the Max rpm on the main pg which seemed to vary too much between motors.
3) Watts and RPM - Yep important. Get that average up around 100 watts then pick the motor with the most RPM. I was never sold on High Torque/Low RPM motors.
4) Stick with your 17ah battery. I have seen many robi's at the track, none of which were powered by a power supply. I think robi makes mention of this in the manual to never use a power supply. A cheap $20 walmart 275 cranking amps lawn/tractor battery will work as well. Used one of those for years. Trickle charged it the night before and usually it lasted all day Saturday.

2) Amp steps 18-26 - the average calc I used for Monsters, Co27's Epic stocks -- shoot for 100 watts
Have you also used the Robi for 19T oval motors? What is your criteria for a good 19T motor and what amp steps do you use for the 19Ts?

I'm running Ultrabird 19Ts on a 385 ft runline dirt oval.

Dont use a power supply with your dyno you will end up frying something.

If you run 6 cells test the motors at 7.5V and if you run 4 cells test at 5V.

A good motor at 5v is not necessarly a good motor at 7.5v

thank for all your replies.

Got a few more regarding the software. In the preferences the current limiter is defaulted to 150 A. Do I just leave that for 27turn? Also the average limit is 40 - 80 amps on default. Is that also good for 27 turn. Everything else on the software makes sense except the 2 above so I just need abit of info on what they are and if they can affect readings if not set properly.


I have so far used it the last 3 nights tuning a few motors and have definitely increased power and RPMs just by tweaking springs and aligning brush hoods.

Last one: Would data be generally lower if I use clips instead of direct soldering the motor wires? Thanks again guys

Yes dont use clips, you will get inconsistant readings.

For a stock motor I always use to use set the current limit to the max and use the average of 20-45

Thanks Pat,

Unfortunately soldering is not an option as I plan on selling tuned stock motors here downunder. If I double the clips for each polarity, say one clip to the brush shunt and one at the endbell tabs would this be better.

Unfortunately soldering is not an option as I plan on selling tuned stock motors here downunder. If I double the clips for each polarity, say one clip to the brush shunt and one at the endbell tabs would this be better.
If you don't want to solder to the terminals, you can find (or make) some clamps (sort of like C-clamps) that would solidly clamp the spade lug from the dyno to the brush hood terminal. A piece of 3/8" steel with a slot cut in it as the jaw opening and a tapped hole for a screw to clamp the terminals together ought to do the job. You would have to clamp to the solder lug opposite the spring post to have room for the clamp.

hmm
we have used alligators clips for years and never had a problem with inconsistent readings ?????

Martin on here has more knowledge with 19T's.
He may be able to come on and share some of his benchmark numbers and dyno settings.

Most of the stock motors (27 turn) I have tuned are getting an average 118 watts and around 28000+ RPM. This is on 7.5 volts and the figures from the LCD display. Are they good numbers?

Hook it up to a laptop to get the full affect.

those sound low if they are max numbers. Some Robi's are stingy but still on those a good motor should be mid 120's at least.

On most robi dyno's if the temp in the building is around 65-75 deg shoot for 130+ watts
If its 85+ degrees then 121-125 is usually a good motor.

But temp affects the watts alot.

What motor are you spinning up?
Max RPM on a Co27 should be 30000-32000 maybe more if the com is smaller
Max RPM on a good Monster can push upwards of 34000-35000+ but most are in the 32000 range
Max RPM on an Epic stock is usually 33000-36000

For RPM though I recommend using the 30T step (top) table for RPM but u need a laptop I think to view that step. This is what the Robi program uses for their gear calculator.
That is a more consistent reading. The Max RPM just never seemed to relate on the track

for 30T RPM shoot for 23000+ for a CO27, 25000 for a Monster and 26000 for an Epic Roar stock

The figures are on C027 but brushes are new and only broken in 5 minutes on 3 volts. The do get 125+ watts on fully seated brushes and around 31000+ RPM. All figures are based on 1-2 cuts max on the comm of an OEM motor.

you should be fine with those numbers.

After you break your motors in, do you let your motors sit a while before dyno-ing them? During break in the motor will warm up and the numbers will read lower.

I would normally build motors one day, then let them sit overnight and spin them up the next day, that way the heat cant skew the numbers.

I normally chuck them in the dyno after break-in (10 minutes max in between). I did notice that figures are lower in the units display, compared to when I hook it up to my PC. After a few weeks of testing, I m getting more confident and just by the sound when dynoing can already tell when a motor is good or bad. ;)

Go to the Robi site and send them an email, they have good customer support.

or try Robert@robitronic.com

I've been trying to get a problem resolved since last January and still nothing!!I am surprised!!

I've received replies within 2 days by Robert. Maybe you can post the problem and a few of us can help.