Hey guys,

When I got back into this I was all about going super fast. Now I've turned the corner I think alot of you already have. I want to have to drive the car not just pull the trigger and scream. So I've bought about a dozen of what I believe to be todays version of the classic thunderjets. Now honestly in box stock form I'm not enjoying these cars. But I know I have read many posts about these cars and increasing performance. Here's is a pick of one so you know exactly what I'm working with. I am not beyond spending some money on upgrades.
Thanks Guys

For driving the JL Thunderjets (and any Aurora Tuff Ones you may have), you'll need, at least, a 60 ohm controller (for the best control, get a 95 or 120 ohm resistor controller for the JLTO's), and a 45 or 60 ohmer for your other cars.

your picture is a repop Tough One, or a JLTO. i agree you need a controller with a high ohm rating. i have the best luck using either a 95ohm or 120 ohm controller. for $20 you can buy just the resistor, for $43 you can get the entire controller

http://sky.prohosting.com/horacer/brp/nitro.html

i have quite alot of these (bought about 10 cases of 12). i bought enough i was able to find plenty of good runners that only needed oil. i am just now starting to tweak the dogs to get better performance. some of these cars have issues with out of round hubs and bent rims, if thats the case those parts need to be replaced. you also need silicone tires. i get them in bulk from Weird Jack http://www.geocities.com/jack.stinson@sbcglobal.net/

i usually use 6 pairs of rib standards for each JLTO (one pair up front and 1 pair one each rear hub). ask him about his bag-o-rejects or dime bags. both good deals.

so far i have had good luck adjusting the brush tension (bending the little tabs in the bottom of the chassis down to reduce brush tension). others report having good luck removing a coil from the pickup shoe springs. you could also just buy NOS tjet pickup shoe springs.

these are never as fast as a magnet car (440x2, super g plus, tomy turbo) but still are alot of fun.

Once you get to tweaking these and sliding them around the track, you won't be disappointed. :thumbsup: rr

The JL Tuff-one are much more touchy than a regular TJET. Definatley buy yourself a high ohm controller. You might also want to try putting an NOS TJET chassis with silicone slipons on the rear. (An NOS TJET chassis is a TJET chassis that was made 40 years ago and is what the call New Old Stock) The JL bodies with stock TJET Chassis are a blast. I also like changing the 14T pinion out for a 9T pinion on the JL.

Roger Corrie

If you have a transformer one thing you can try is to set the chassis up to run to break it in. Oil the chassis and strap it to a block of wood (with rubber bands or tape)and allow it to run at 1/2 to 3/4 speed for 10 to 15 minutes. In most cases this will allow the chassis to run much smoother.
I did this at work one day using a block of styrofoam, a paperclip, a rubber band and a few small peices of wire along with a 9volt power supply from a phone or a calculator.
Shame that I couldn't hear anything on the phone over the whine of the chassis running...:rolleyes:
Scott

JL cars are our thing here in Southern Michigan. We run them in a class called Modified T-Jets. For ultimate performance, lower your ride height, silicone slip on tires, or modify with brass front and rear wheels. .350 to .370 pro silicone tires for $8.00 make handeling a plus. The brush wells sometimes are undersized on the JL cars hampering in the brushe's ability to float freely thus sticking, robbing your car from horsepower to not running at all. Clean the hole carefully with an exacto to open up the defective hole for better brush float. We carry what you need to get the most out of your T-Jets and Johnny Lightning cars.
Go to www.daveshoraceway.com then click on Dave's ebay store under T-Jet and AFX parts. Hope you have as much fun as we do!