Thought I would post my ebay experience with buying GP 3300 batteries represented as factory matched 1.17 volts @ 30 amps by the seller.

I bought two of these packs for $24.99 each plus $13 shipping. $62.99 total cost. I have used the packs for three track outings and was not pleased with their punch or performance. I finally checked them with a Turbo 30. Here are the results. I am asking for my money back.

Here is the item number on ebay so be aware that what you are buying (based on my experience) are 1.125 volt packs not 1.17 + volts. Item number: 5933404565

Pack #1
Average discharge voltage = 6.74 volts for pack or 1.123 volts /cell
Charge Rate: 6 amps with a T-30
Battery temp at end of charge = 125 deg. F
Discharge Rate: 30 amps
Discharge battery temp at end of discharge = 175 deg. F
Internal Resistance 145 for the pack or 25 ohms per cell
3425 MAH
9.14 volts peak

PACK 2 (no spreadsheet) 6 amp charge
8.82 peak voltage
3200 mah
126 Internal resistance or 21 ohms per cell
6.76 volts average discharge voltage at 30 amps or 1.126 volts
384 seconds of run time (5.4 volt cutoff)
Pack temp at end of discharge was 186 deg. F.

Thought I would post my ebay experience with buying GP 3300 batteries represented as factory matched 1.17 volts @ 30 amps by the seller.
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Curious, is that seller http://www.maxamps.com/ ?
I am sure they will work with you.. they seem to have a very positive rating ?
Hmm...

I think you're barking up the wrong tree...He isn't responsible for GP's matching, nor can you compare your T30 to whatever was used to match them, which I am 99.9% positive that GP doesn't use a T30.


Ever heard someone complain about dyno labels on motors? My dyno sure doesn't show the same numbers as what Fantom puts on the can...yet I use a Fantom dyno. No use in complaining about it unless you understand WHY they are different.

Factory matched packs are entirely different than 'company' matched packs. I'm sure someone can pipe in from a matching company and shed some light.

I bought 2 6-cell packs and made them into 3 4-cell packs and ran them a couple of times and them cycled them on my Turbo 35 Stealth, charging at 6 amps, discharging at 30 amps with a .90 cut off and all 3 packs had around 1.165 ave volts with around 380 run time but the internal resistance was really high in all of them. I didn't buy mine from the same seller on eBay, but he also claimed the 1.17 volts and mine were pretty close, but they definately didn't have the punch like the matched sets that you can buy from the battery matchers, because of the very high IR.

I think you're barking up the wrong tree...He isn't responsible for GP's matching, nor can you compare your T30 to whatever was used to match them, which I am 99.9% positive that GP doesn't use a T30.


Ever heard someone complain about dyno labels on motors? My dyno sure doesn't show the same numbers as what Fantom puts on the can...yet I use a Fantom dyno. No use in complaining about it unless you understand WHY they are different.

Factory matched packs are entirely different than 'company' matched packs. I'm sure someone can pipe in from a matching company and shed some light.

You can buy cases of GP cells "factory matched". GP makes no guarantee of their voltage but categorizes them as "better" cells then the regular SCHR cell. These cells are not zapped and generally display an average discharge voltage of between 1.30-1.60 volts. It is only after a GP cell is "voltage enhanced" that the average discharge voltage rises and the internal resistance lowers to the levels you are use to seeing on a premium matched battery pack.

It is pretty irresponsible for an Ebay seller to represent the cells as 1.17+, but
there is that old saying that certainly applies in this case - You get what you pay for!

Stick with a reptuable matching company next time...

Regards,
Gary F. Huber
Surge Worldwide
'Resistance is Futile'
www.surgeworldwide.com

A few tricks i have seen on e-bay when boasting huge voltage is they match them at 25 amps and sometimes even as low as 20 so the voltage looks better than it really is. Another is a funky cut off rate which they try to boost the label as well. Just a few things to look out for.

I posted about this quite some time ago and questioned whether it was false advertising. Run a search and you will come across the thread. I personally think that it is when you are representing a cell that is supposed to be at least 1.17v and a majority of the time the cells aren't. If you are just looking to bash in the backyard then I can see buying them otherwise..................

Personally I would rather buy a battery from SPC (www.specpointbatteries.com) or other reputable matcher and know the pack is what it is than be out the money and not know what you have.

Thanks for all the comments. The batteries were represented (i.e., advertised) as 1.17 volts discharged at 30 amps . Both, when tested by me, came in with 1.125 volts. I know how to solder up a pack and have never lost .045 volts due to battery bars . The difference isn't any rounding error.

As background I have had my actual results on my T-30 correlate well with other matched packs I bought from other matchers. When you think about it with a $13 shipping charge for two $25 packs the price is really not that good of a deal even when you look and see what else is on the market. The seller has emailed be and said he would refund my money but I don't know if that includes the inflated $13 shipping charges. (By the way, what's the deal with so many ebay sellers inflating shipping charges?)

And yes, these so called 1.17 volt GP 3300 packs would be OK for bashing around and practicing but there are a heck of a lot of 3000 cells available on the used market that you can pick up for $10 a pack.

I will consider this as a lesson learned. I knew I was taking a flyer on these packs being what they were advertised as on ebay. I would have preferred though to have them advertised as loose, unmatched cells sold as a pack with battery bars. It would have more accurately reflected what they are.

(By the way, what's the deal with so many ebay sellers inflating shipping charges?)

I can tell you why the shipping is inflated on eBay. It's because eBay, PayPal, etc charge so many fees for the auctions and payments and some sellers inflate the shipping to make up the difference. I have sold quite a few items on eBay and the fees add up quick and take away a lot of the profit. As long as the shipping charges are stated, then there is no reason to complain, because it was agreed to when you bid on the auction. What you really have to watch out for is the ones who don't tell you the shipping charges until the auctions end.

(By the way, what's the deal with so many ebay sellers inflating shipping charges?)

I can tell you why the shipping is inflated on eBay. It's because eBay, PayPal, etc charge so many fees for the auctions and payments and some sellers inflate the shipping to make up the difference. I have sold quite a few items on eBay and the fees add up quick and take away a lot of the profit. As long as the shipping charges are stated, then there is no reason to complain, because it was agreed to when you bid on the auction. What you really have to watch out for is the ones who don't tell you the shipping charges until the auctions end.


Good points. True, at least when the shipping cost is stated (albeit inflated) it makes the true cost easier to calculate.

eBay fees are not figured using the shipping cost, only the selling price. So if you sell something for $5.00 and ship for $30.00 your eBay fees would be a lot less the selling for $30.00 with $5.00 shipping.

I really like Hank's post. I might have to try that one. You would save on listing and final value fees. KSG Slider $1.00 Buy-It-Now, shipping $330.00.

Hank et al,

I like the idea. Sell a new TC4 for $10 and charge $190 for shipping.

shipping & handling....LOL

I very rarely bid when seller do that....

Prof: check to see if one of the cells gets much hotter during charge or discharge.
If you have a volt mete even better.

If that system is abused eBay can and will deactivate your account. You have to find the right balance to make sure shipping isn't too out of line. Or create "throw-away" eBay accounts so if you get booted you can just come back with another one.

shipping & handling....LOL

I very rarely bid when seller do that....

Prof: check to see if one of the cells gets much hotter during charge or discharge.
If you have a volt mete even better.

I checked that out too. The temp difference is less than 5 degrees F per cell.

yeah.. inflated shipping on ebay. hrrmph. you always see like cell phone accessories for 99 cents and then shipping is like 10$. Heh. When I sell on ebay, I just do normal shipping costs + 2~5$ to cover. Most of my costs are usually recovered in the sale of the product.

Once I bought some Integy Cells, and tried to match their voltage and label numbers (after reading how Integy changes their cutoff etc....) but never got close.

I try and stay away from ebay batteries. I usually purchase mine via a reputable matcher (smc, fukuyama, promatch, ballistic) or if used, from someone i know who can care well for the batts.

hey.. at least all your labels didnt read the same on each label, which i've seen on some ebay batts. I was thinking "how the heck do you match getting EXACT numbers on every cell..." ... never did get a response from the seller.. LOL

yeah.. ...

hey.. at least all your labels didnt read the same on each label, which i've seen on some ebay batts. I was thinking "how the heck do you match getting EXACT numbers on every cell..." ... never did get a response from the seller.. LOL

All labels had the same numbers. Funny! I bet the matcher he used consisted of an Avery label and inkjet printer. What's wrong with that picture? Oh well, it's a lesson learned.

Regarding my supposed 1.17+ cells I have contacted the seller and asked him where to send the cells to get my money back. I also asked him if he will refund the $13 shipping charges. I have heard nothing from him for two days. Funny how money back guarantees work. He needs to be paid in advance but I have to pay to ship them back and hope I get my money back after he has both my money and the less-than-advertised battery packs. Geeze. It is one of the risks of buying via ebay.

hmm every battery had the exact same numbers? anyone who matches or even knows anything about checking run time of numbers knows its hard to get all 6 cells to be exactly the same. maybe near, a couple a 01's or 1's or .001's etc...

that why matches match according to voltage or run time.
even my 70$ 2400 pack that i bought way back in the hayday of matched 2400's didnt have all the same numbers. (yeah.. 70$ go figure.. they were called "FACTORY TEAM" packs.. LOL)

hmmm.. thats lame... hope you get this straightened out. if anything he should return some money back and you have a decent set of "basher" packs for practice ;)

You ever seen some Trinity packs? Well, we better not go there.........I'd gotten booted from the old Tech Talk about five times for discussing batteries with Ernie. :)

You ever seen some Trinity packs? Well, we better not go there.........I'd gotten booted from the old Tech Talk about five times for discussing batteries with Ernie. :)


Been there done that. I started with login39 and ended with login51 for not loving Trinity products. .

Trinity, Who is trinity????? LOL

I agree that buying so-called matched packs on ebay can be risky ... but I have found one honest & experienced matcher selling there; Brent Bones of Bones Motor Sports. I just checked his current selection and it's limited, but honest numbers at honest prices. Search for seller name: bmsmanbms

I rarely visit any other threads on this forum other than the Missouri/Illinois racer thread due to the fact that every serious racer here is an electric racer. I enjoy electric racing in the winter time simply due to the fact that there is nothing better to do. It always blows my mind when I read any other thread here and see the time, effort, and money dumped into racing electric vehicles on a high level. Don't get me wrong, I fully understand the money can be dumped equally if not higher in gas racing, but its always been my experience that you can race at a very high competitive level in gas and actually spend much less than the guy sitting next to you that has all the top of the line equipment. Meaning, both drivers can have the same driving skill and their lap times really aren't all that different even though the money spent between the two is drastically different.

Where am I going with this? It really turns me off to electric racing competitively when I read a thread like this. I've been using ebay bought batts for awhile now and have had no problems with them and stay somewhat competitive.... but then again, I can't imagine dumping 50$ or A LOT MORE into a battery. A BATTERY! It seems ridiculous that you would have to spend that much just so someone can slap a label onto a cell? Give me a break.... And you know why these companies charge so much for the little label on the cell? Because you do go a lot faster depending on your battery. In my humble opinion electric racing is highly unfair in that regard. Too often it doesn't depend on your racing skill but what equipment you are running. A usual weak counter someone could throw at me would be there is stock racing. Please, stock racing is the most unfair type of racing out there. I don't even need to get into that one... The only racing that somewhat levels the playing field is mod, but the battery issue still will come up. I've long thought about going to these labeled batts, but then I think to myself, why? Everything I read here usually hovers around using them only for about 40-50 charges and only charging them once a day maximum? That would require me to purchase at least 7 batteries on almost an every other month basis just to stay competitive? Man, and I thought it was supposed to be my driving skill that keeps me competitive....

Prof, I'm sorry about your poor battery experience. I'm assuming you probably noticed it in a race where someone that didn't have your driving skill out accelerated you in a corner and blew by you on a straight... just for having equipment that was a lot more expensive. It's a shame electric racing has to be this way.

Good points. In fact, I stopped racing electric 3 years ago for the very reason you elaborated on in your post. The scenario kept being repeated race after race. I would qualify very well for the main. When the main came the same guys I was beating in the qualifiers would pull out their killer pack and it felt like my car had a parking brake installed. It is kind of like racing a supercharged engine against non-supercharged cars in tha same class. I, too, prefer nitro cars for that very reason.