joe,

hit pwt at rccrawler.com

but how do you want your electronics mounted?

i tested it. and mounted my rx on the secound batts crossmembers. theri are a tone of pics in his tsc-10 outsider testing thread in the small scale area

Side by side battery mounts. I have six 3300mAH side by side packs and I sure dont want to have to buy a few stick packs for my crawler. That, and I can make the chassis myself; the only cost being the aluminum plate (which I already have from a previous project)

Yeah, I wondered about the stick pack requirement as well but when you are talking new chassis etc., grabbing a couple low end stick packs really didn't seem like that big an extra expense. If you are crawling do you even care how good your pack is? I don't know. I wouldn't think so.

i am going to try and stack on of my penguin tlt batts between the frame. but i don't know about the drawings. you would have to ask pwt. i was thinking of making one out of CF..for that cool factor.

If you are crawling do you even care how good your pack is? I don't know. I wouldn't think so.

Yeah, I guess you are right. I didnt want to have to run to the car/backpack/house everytime a battery went dead. I also didnt want another RC that I didnt make the most parts for myself. Not many people can say "yeah, I custom machined the chassis and link mounts and spent a few hours making custom tires" when it comes to their RC car. Plus PWT is no longer taking orders, so I guess I gotta make it myself :freak:

he may have few extra, but is also thinking about a secound run. over at rccrawler.com their is talk of a tlt chassis shoot out. the bulu2, TSC-10 and a few others are going to be tested head to head by the colorado guys. so if it does well i think he will produce more.

I can totally relate to the homebuilt thing! My TLT hasn't gotten that treatement but I have scratch built several Clods and there is a definite satisfaction knowing it is all yours. In fact, I woke this morning thinking about a new Clod crawler. Sold off the last one for way less than I should and I came across my spare set of axles yesterday. The creative juices are flowing. Unfortunately most of my creating has been done at work in the machine shop and work has been insanely busy these last months so I have no idea where I would find the time.

here it is, what a difference this made. no more belt skipping, 2 speeds and much smoother. loud as hell, though.

looks very cool!

what kind of run times do you get?

i have a maxx tranny sitting...have been thinking about using it int he TSC-10, since my pede tranny is out of state:)

Loud? That has always been the one issue I have had with an e-maxx- the noise. I was never sure where it came from but I expected a pair of motors. Now I know it was the tranny! when you say "big difference" what exactly are you refering to? Speed? Torque?

Loud is caused by the larger pitch of the gears inside and out, & the dual motors.

run time about a half hour with 2000 mAh battery. torque is about the same as before, but no more skipping, and without the belt tensioner the drivetrain is very free running. noisy, yes. lots of 32 pitch gears but it's worth it. the 2 speeds are slow, and really slow. using a 10 pinion and 70 spur (72 won't fit between the chassis plates)

well as most of you guys know i am a huge TSC-10 chassis fan. and i had penguin RC do a custom cut tsc-10R for me. i had plays_with-toys permision to do this. please do not copy the tsc-10 wihtout asking first.


here she is the worlds first tsc-10 built from the PWT's cad drawing.


http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8509

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their are a few more pics and such at one18th.com
my thread has grown over 700 posts and almost 20,000 veiwers. the thread is like the pede forum here anything goes with a great group of guys.

hope you like it. and it may become a production option on a short run. if your interested pm pwt.

later :)
-peter-

Peter-
That looks great! Does it run the same as the original? I have not had my TLT out in ages. Stripped the receiver off it at the track when I forgot a radio and it just hasn't made it back. Now that it is getting warmer I should get more of a chance to drive it.

it is a little lighter on it's feet. it feels the same as the alloy chassis with mashers when i run the huge all-t tires. hope to maybe glue a set of tires today and run it. the kids have a half day and the weather is finally acting like i live in western washington. on anf off rain, and some seruis hail storms yesterday.

lost a tree as well.

Hey Peter, How do you like the All-Ts? I was originally considering getting a set for my Pede but they seem too large far a stock chassied Pede. What do you think? any comments about them?

The TLT looks nice but in the chassis shot from the top it looks like the steering is limited on the battery side due to the All-T tire size. Also, no servo savers?

no savers. the weight of the truck breaks them down. steering is fine, untill you get into some roughstuff. i love the all-ts size, but the tires are junky. all 4 tires feel different. ie sidewalll strength, tred face, and they seem to wide from bead to bead.
think a slight narrow job on the tires will help but i lack the skills for a job like that.

i think in looks on a stock pede it would be okay with a well cut and lowered body. but it reminds me of the clod-wheeled pedes from rcmt. if you can get nthem cheap they maybe worth trying. i paid $17 a pair they retail for $20.

Hello Chris !!!
I was searching for some input about PRP's tlt kit and I found you. I've read your write up on the chassis, GREAT stuff. I was hoping you could give me an update on your success (or lack of) using the PRP as a crawler. Have you locked the diffs? Did that help? Any fixes to the "tippyness" of the chassis? THANX!

Actually I have not driven the truck much! I have gotten back into off-road racing and that has taken most of my effort. (actually, I needed the receiver and that was even more final! :rolleyes: Looking for a new one right now).

One thing I have done, but haven't tried out yet was to remove the outer plates. I found that I was forced to limit the articulation (through shock placement) ti keep the tires from hitting the outer plates. By removing those there is definitely more flex in the chassis (less after I replaced the four missing bolts! :p) but I don't think that will matter as a crawler. Now there is nothing to hit with the wheels but the body. Right now I am still working on a different body mounting system as the posts were on the outer plates...
http://home.comcast.net/~c.t.harris/TLT/skinnyTLT.jpg

I am thinking of either putting Stampede type mounts onto the front and rear chassis plates or extending those posts (and placing them higher) to hold the body from the sides.

As far as locking the diffs? I had been thinking of the truck as a tough-truck sort of vbehicle where I didn't want them locked. As a crawler though, I will definitely lock them up. Not sure how just yet!

Thanks for the compliment on the write-up!

nice job on removing the side plates.


i am still looking for a good limited slip option fo rhte tlt axles. think i have to hit the local subaru dealer to see what they have.

nice job on removing the side plates.

Well Peter, let me tell you! That was one tough mod. I mean I had to find the right allen wrench and then remember which direction to turn it in!
:p

Personally I think it looks really cool with the plates but at least as cool without them. Just different. Much more like a TTR Clod chassis w/o. When I first did it the thing was flexing all over the place and I got a bit worried. That was when I found (or didn't find) the missing bolts. I think I pointed out in my write-up that they failed to suggest loctite... I think I will use some now.

The plan is to figure out body mounts and then resecure everything, slap in my receiver and revisit this puppy as a crawler. I was just looking for speed when I first built it and was disillusioned by the lack there of. The numbers don't lie: gear it down with a tranny and a set of diffs and it aint going to be fast! I could always put the 5800 in there. That might pep it up a bit!

It would still roll over when it thought about cornering though.

The reason I stole the receiver (I think- it was a while ago) was that I wanted the FM receiver for the Novak brushless to avoid glitching. Unfortunately although I have LOTS of AM receivers, I only have that one FM/3 ch...

i bet it would scream with the Bl in it. my friend run the Bl in his tlt. he also uses the pede tranny gears as well. and his is geared 12/93 and it is still fast. and pretty smooth at low throttle. i had wondered if you could lose the outer frame rails. i think it look much tuffer now. not so bulky and over sized.

Well, I might just have to try the BL in it just to find out! (insert evil laugh). I agree with the leaner/meaner look. It was a pretty big chassis!

Pretty good article about stretching the TLT in the June 2005 issue of RCCA. No pede tranny, but I guess the stock will do for those who arent as extreme

I'm still waiting on that one. I hear there is also mention of our new track! Generally I prefer RC Driver but RCCA has it's virtues. Thanks for the heads-up.

well, got my lazy rear around to working on the TLT again. I have the axle link mounts finished so now I just have to build a chassis..

sorry, no pics so far (lol, like you would want to see my truck); my dad currently has my digi cam

how has everyone been doing? and how are the trucks?

got mine running pretty solid. have my body trimmed enoigh. and need to rebuild one shock as well. with my current setup i get a almost 90 minutes or crawle time with a venom stick pack 3000mah, and my t-600 motor.

i just got back my prot type penguin rc plates. they are made to allow you to run the traxxas magnum gears in the p2300 performance chassis. the truck it's going in will be built around the tobee stretch kit. ofna 2.2 deeeep offset rims, element 19x2 motor and 6&7 cell sanyo 1700 mahbatts.

hope to get wrench time on it in the morning.

later all


peter

:)

Peter, you are just going to have to put that into pictures for me. Is this a Penguin design or your design made by them? What are the magnum gears? The standard Pede gears?

the magnum gears are from the traxxas magnum transmition(pede/rustybandit) it is a penguin rc peice. on the early proto stage. the top shaft, iddle gear and planetary diff are used.

Would those be closed up or open as with the PRP? I really worry about taking mine out in the nasty what with the diff gear sitting at the bottom of the open chassis.

it is open but penguin included a temp;et for a rock gaurd.

but when i ran my rusty i always ended up with a ton of junk in the tranny. it worked in the open hole in the bottom of the tranny case. you don't have that issue withthe pede?\

hope to jump on this in the next bit. pics will loaded at one18th. and i will post a link when i get that far.

well i did get tot eh truck a bit today. and here is the link i promised to what i was doing. http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?p=169609&posted=1#post169609

any Q's just ask.

peter

it is open but penguin included a temp;et for a rock gaurd.

but when i ran my rusty i always ended up with a ton of junk in the tranny. it worked in the open hole in the bottom of the tranny case. you don't have that issue withthe pede?

Nope, the Pede tranny stays pretty clean. Well, I do put tape over that hole as they suggest in the build instructions.

Nope, the Pede tranny stays pretty clean. Well, I do put tape over that hole as they suggest in the build instructions.

i never had an y instructions for mine. all secound hand :)

how is the prp handling witht he side plates removed?

It seems plenty stiff but I haven't had it out for more than a backyard romp. I need to lock up at least the rear diff for any real crawling. It is pretty fun right now but as expected, pretty tippy in the corners.

I was just looking over the latest RCCA at the TLT crawler how-to and I had a question. On page 200 they talk about putting an o-ring behind the dogbone, and putting a spacer behind the drive cup to keep the dog bone from falling out. Two questions: Why? and How? :) Seriously though, do you need to do this because the links are just long enough that the bones fall out? Wouldn't shorter links also deal with this problem? Or is it the amount of articulation that stretches the gap between the cups beyondwhat the slot of the cups can handle. Also, (never having tried) is there really enough length to the shaft coming out of the diff to move the cup that far out without faling off? I know that on my PRP where I have Pede yokes, there is barely enough room to get the set screw to seat as it is.

I guess the o-ring is to "center" the bone in the cup. I can't really see how that would work without it being in constant contact and wouldn't that mean there is no room for lateral motion with articulation?

i think the whole point of them using it is o mimic the old TC trick of using them. to reduce chatter in the cup and bone and runduce slop when turning. like when your tlt axle atric up and down. it will reduce the wear on the outdrives and ball end of the bone.

i didn't read the article but i did skim it. just seemed like a waste of a good chance to show something really nice off.with the years of rc building, the parts, the knowledge it just felt half-butted to me.

what did you think of the article?

Actually I thought that as a basic how-to to introduce people to the concept of modding trucks it worked pretty well. I have very little faith in RCCA for most stuff. Just like it's brother Mountain Bike Action which is equally over stuffed with ads and misinformation.

I DID like the way the guy used side mounted body posts for the rear to allow him to run a larger body. I might try that myself!

For "average Joe RC-car-guy", its a fine article. For those of us (aka, me) who dont mind spreading the work out over a few months (only to find out you want to re-do the entire thing over a course of six months) custom everything is a must. No modded stock chassis underneath our jeep and truck bodies...

I think I am in that same boat. I don't worry so much about how long it takes and hav e NEVER gotten all the parts together before I started into the truck mod. Then again, this was for an article and who knows how long and how many different attempts he made before he got to this one. I will never fault a guy for how far he goes, or doesn't on changing a truck/car. it is the act of doing it that counts. It takes vision and a willingness to explore. Not all tha tmany people have that. There is one guy at my track who has had a collection of the most amazing clods, racing,c rawling and bashing. Every one of them is store bought. Cost huge bucks and look awesome. Did he ever make a single part? Not that I know of. On the flip side my race clod cost me about $20 skipping the axles and electronics. It depends on what you want to do.

i just thought the combo of using ball cups and i know they mentioned ball ends) and the posser pics on nthe rocks. i think it will miss lead the beginer into going the cheaper route and getting mad every three inches he/she has to pop a ball cup back on.

maybe it just struck me wrong, or i didn't get their intent.

The intent? Your guess is as good as mine. I just saw it as one of their typical "look what I did" sort of articles. They did a better job of it as a how-to but as you say they don't go into pros and cons. He DID say that they would pop off and that you could go the standard route with screws. he even went so far as to note the ball studs would go on the outside holes but the screws would use the inside ones. I don't know whether that would actually keep you from having to buy new linkages because of the changes end length. Would kinda stink if you tried the ball ends, didn't like them and then found you needed to invest another $20-$? on new links to keep the same wheelbase.

Started working on my TLT again today (well, yesterday I guess). It looks very similar to my old design, but I totally redid the link mounts. I should have some pics up in a few days of it completed or pretty close to being completed.

woops, promised pics and didnt go through with it. well, I am re doing the shock mounts (again) soon and then my TLT should be good enough for me to keep it that way for more then two days.

so how is everyone elses doing?

trying to get everythign else up and runing. have a pede roller on the way. and have my mini giant running as well:D truck is a blast witht he fireball motor ball bearings and 6 cells.

my tlt-10 is running my alloy tsc-10 chassis. i have been running it a fair amount of water with my friends truck. and i was worried about the Cf version i have. my son's tlt has my old penguin R/C p23000 chassis. i have a new tranny plate installed on his truck that allowz you to run pede tranny gears instead of the belt stock set up.

close to a production unit but not enough run time yet. had to get 3 motors rebuilt so i could get that tlt up and running. the element 19t spec motor didn't like the 7 cells.

Know what you mean. Yokomo BD is taking up all my time. well, not working on it, but rather racing.

If you need someone to do some testing on a chassis, I will gladly help out :)

Ran the TLT today. I should have ordered those white rear EVST springs a long time ago. WAY over sprung. I don't even get 1/2 the articulation that I should be getting. I'm only running four cells, mostly because I havnt came up with a good battery mount idea that could house six cells. My current mount can hold five, but I only had a four cell pack; no five. I can really notice a lack of punch, but that lack of punch also keep the front wheels down when I gun it. Mental note to self: order a 55t lathe motor. (I'm running a Orion "rush" 19t right now)

the lathes are in high demand still and a little hard to find online. the great planes T-600 is a lot cheaper and has great low end torque. i love mine. and plays with toys runs his with the colorado club guys. he said the t-600 is a little easier to gear and you can gear it up a little for some wheel spin.


my truck is geared 93/16. and its as fast a fast walk. but not short on pulling/crawling/pushing power. i got 2-3 hours of run time on a venom 3000mah stick and i get 10-20 with the 2/3a kan cells.

ran my truck the other day to make sure the electronics were still alive after my last water run. :D i finished cutting the wheel wells out ont he new rock pleazer i have had since they were released. but messed up a body mount hole up front :(

smo, what shocks are you running? i have losi pinks on the front of mine with stock rear pede springs in the back. think iwant to try pinks in the rear, but the other pair have a home on my pede :D

nice to see some action here.
if anyone is interested in pics of the water run let me know and i will ink them up.

-peter-

Always interested in seeing other people do foolish things Pete!

Always interested in seeing other people do foolish things Pete!

WHY THaNK YOU ;)

a friend i chat with has almost messed his pants after seeing the pics. he has had the worst luck with h2o and escs :D

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the oranghe truck is my friends tlt. it runs a penguin R/C p2300 chassis with the prototype magnum tranny plates. he has just gotten the AE three piece wheels mentioned by toyofast on rcc. so he was runnig my new and unused all-t tires. the AE rims and tobee craft wideners work very well together.

this was the secound outing made at the creek by the ball feilds. we drive about a 100-150 foot section of it. i was not able to stay in the creek the whole time. had rain the day before so the water level was up much higher then the first run. HO502cid(on one18th/rccrawler=steve) was able to stay in the water all the way down.

the added 1/2 of wheel height really help him in the muck. his truck runs the novak 5800ss Bl on 5 gp 3300 cells. and steeringin is done through a futaba magnum 3pm with mixable third channel steering and 2 hitek 645 mg servos.

my current setup is great planes T-600 motor, noavk XRS esc, 6 cell 2/3a kan 1050 battery, xr3i radio for 3rd channel mixed steering and 2 jr z590 metal servos. he gets about 20 minutes of run time and i get about 15 per pack. i mount 2 packs on the chassis so i can just switch packs with out having to really stop. and the extra weight helps alot.

would love to hear what you guys think of the pics :D

later all