Hi Guys, been lurking for a few days. Figured I'd post and get a little input.

I own a 1985 Montgomery Wards Lawn Tractor that I use for moving trailers around the property. Recently I noticed some rust on the frame... Slack in the diff, Then the original B&S 11HP motor locked. I took it to a shop, They said the bearings locked. I always hated that motor so it wasn't a great loss and winter is the perfect time to restore an old tractor. I found a very good looking B&S 286707 4026 01 91081411 "12.5HP Syncho-Balanced I/C Quiet" at a swap meet and talked the guy down to $20 because it has a weird noise at idle.

I'd like to play around with this motor in my spare time and pratice some techniques. I'm thinking along the lines of super quiet exhaust, HiPo intake, P&P along with a full rebuild and repaint. However there's only one little snatch, I've never had an engine torn down farther than the block, Let alone a 1cyl.

Is there a recommended book with specs and the like?

Can I get a parts list like I have for my car, Showing parts explosions and the like?

Is there any parts swapping I can do?

Can I put a bigger "alternator" on this motor? I'd like to mount a couple lights and not have battery problems.

Is it okay to put a car size battery in? Mounting it isn't a problem.

Anybody know how to wire up this motor?

Is there a cheap place to get parts?

I've heard I can run Full Synthetic 30W oil, Any problems with that?

Anybody know where to buy an hour meter so I can time my oil changes?

Thanks in advance,
Damemorder

first off you can order the cd of all the manuals and parts explosions, etc. on briggsandstratton.com or the manuals and parts explosions for free. there isn't many part swaps you can do with smaller or bigger engines. like a 12hp can take a 11hp head but not cam. a bigger alternator is mostly impossible. the alternator under the flywheel puts out enough power to power two 12 volt lamps/ the old types. a car battery is alright but don't use the starter for to long it'll burn it up. never buy cheap parts only b&s parts like a magneto. b&s is pretty cheap. yes you can run synthetic like regular no problems. as for an hour meter you could try buying one for a new mower that uses one and rigging it up. your wiring is simple. wire from magneto to ground then the starter wire to the solenoid. the wire from the solenoid to the battery. the neg from the battery to the body if neg grounded. the wire from the grounded magneto to the starter switch then the wire from there to the solenoid. to make things simple get an old mower with the wiring in it. rip that out remembering where it goes then transplanting it to yours. i've done it before most of them are the same for old to new. most likely the weird noise was that the valves need adj. and or seating. those i/c engines are built 200 times better than a reg. alluminum block. if the engine is old rebuilds are easy simple and very little to no honing is necessary.

Thanks for the reply. I've got my tractor torn down and the rust off, Starting to put it back together now.

The wiring in mine was very bad and I had to bypass alot of the safety switches to get it to keep working, I got a 1988 Murray tractor from the salvage yard with okay wiring. I think I'll build my own wiring harness, But it is nice to have something to go by now.

I got those books from briggsandstratton.com, Thanks. They list a 16A alternator, I think I'll try to put that in. I'm mounting two 100W lights and a little fm radio, I'd like to have power to spare.

Is there any power to be gained by switching to the 11hp head? I have a 11hp engine that looks almost exactly the same. I'm looking for more torque.

Also, Does anyone know any tips on removing the rear rims? They're keyed to the shaft and rusted solid... I put two cans of PB Blaster on them and they're still stuck.

no power from switching the head their the same. the only difference between the engines is age, bore, and carb settings. and some more. just keep the eleven hp for parts. and what i found that worked on my 1982 mower tearup was some good heavy engine oil dribbled on the shaft when heated it will soak up the rust, seap in, and when after a couple hours and a hammer it came loose but wd-40 works just as good but it doesn't lube it to get it out to good. one way to keep it from freezing up like that keep it doused with wd-40 every year or so. the trans in first or second gear provides monster torque. i pulled a locked up front wheel drive car out with mine. the two one hundred watts can be powered with the new alternater but i'd like to tell you about my 8hp murray 8 made in 82. its got two ge electric lights that run off the alternater. gives a bright straight car headlight like beam. or do what i did hook up two rigged spotlights that you plug into a cig. lighter. gives tremendous light. be like my neighbor he hooked up a car horn to his mower, gave plenty of power. just consider this before you buy a new alternator. a small radio that uses twelve volts could be powered off it to.

Hmm, I think i'll give that heat thing a try here in a second. I just put the front subframe in the oven.

The stock lights were 25w each and useless, I got these new lights for $40 at walmart then put $20 into bulbs. I have the exact same thing in my car. They work great.

well mine are easy to find and great for lighting up the yard when i'm just riding around. no deck i just keep it running. but engine oil works the best on rusted shut stuff. heat it till hot not too much though.