Who has bumpers and bumper foam for the CW Aggressor
putnampro@aol.com
518-452-0422

I just pick up one each yesterday.
Later, Bret

Razoo: I use different thickness washers like "Al Spina Fan" posted but the easiest thing I do is cut the flashing off the bottom of a new body and make shims from it that you can slide in and out. The lexan is usually .020 to .030 and makes for easy and small ride height changes. I hate having to take the screws out and the whole front end off to change ride height. It's nice because if your RF tire wears .040" during practice and the first round, you can pull a .020" lexan spacer and be right back tweak and ride height wise where you were earlier in the day.

Hope this helps...

My local hardware store carries .030 nylon washers for $.04 each,but Arnie's plan is cheaper and easier!

Philb1: Just want to be clear, I just run one or two shims max, running a stack of like 4 or more leaves alot to chance. Don't want to be "that guy" in a hard hit with a bunch of lexan shims on the ground!

The lexan is an way to make minor ride height changes. I made some with the lexan as arnie mentioned, with them you can always be at the exact ride height, instead of close enough.

A single shim would be great, wore .02 off my right front last week after 3 heats and a main.

Arnie,

I was wondering if you happened to receive me email I sent you about 2-3 weeks ago?

thanks Mario...

Phil, take some tweak out of it!!! Where were you man? We missed ya in BL. See you in february hopefully.

Awesome idea on the lexan shims. It worked like a charm. Here is another question, how much tweek are you guys running. Or in other words are you setting you rear pod flat or do you have more weight on the left rear, if so how much vs. the right rear. Thanks!

T shirt,

Wehave been running on flat tracks similar to snowbirds. Lots of left rear! Depending on everything else somewhere between 12 and 14.5 ounces in 4 cell stock.

Will be there next week Cory, had to rebuild the front end on the race van=$$$

NICE!!! I won't be there til after the birds weekend, so hopefully you will back later on.

t-shirt man,
i haven't found the need for that much left rear....when we get a high bite situation, i find my car works better in the 11.25-11.75 oz. left rear range.
it does seem to need a fair amount on it to keep it from wanting to "get light" at the apex. anytime i've gotten below 11 oz. it got goofy. it's cool that it will work for others in the 14 oz. area....we used to have a "black area" when we raced karts that you could be between on lr weight and it didn't make a difference...maybe that applies here too.
dusty kemp

Mario: Sorry no I did not see your e-mail. Shoot it again if you will.

Thanks Dusty! The body that I painted with the logos you sent me came out awesome! I have since ran it and put a little war paint on it. I will send you some photos! -Thanks again for all the info!

Hi guys,

I need some replacement parts for the front end. In particular, I need the castor pins for the front. Are they the same as the irrgang front castor pins, or are they different? Where can one find replacements.

Thanks,

Chris

I think you can get parts from Todd Putnam?

I run 4 cell stock with my aggressor and I have a problem
with a severe pull to the left on acceleration.(200ft run line- flat carpet)
So far, the only way I have been able to overcome this is
with a lot of tweak. (14 to 15 oz on LR)
I have the offset glass t plate, rear steer and pod centered.
I have tried different spring setups and that doesn't seem to help.
Does anyone have suggestions?

Thanks

Fox....had the same problem and it turned out to be my radio, which I sent back to the factory and after repairs it solved the problem. Maybe you can borrow another radio and see if that's the problem.

Tin Man

I run 4 cell stock with my aggressor and I have a problem
with a severe pull to the left on acceleration.(200ft run line- flat carpet)
So far, the only way I have been able to overcome this is
with a lot of tweak. (14 to 15 oz on LR)
I have the offset glass t plate, rear steer and pod centered.
I have tried different spring setups and that doesn't seem to help.
Does anyone have suggestions?

Thanks

It is most probably...

too firm LR tire.

But check also...

defective pod bearings
poor diff (not smooth)
servo glitch under throttle

Steve.
Team CW

It is most probably...

too firm LR tire.

But check also...

defective pod bearings
poor diff (not smooth)
servo glitch under throttle

Steve.
Team CW

Also ...

Set rear track to 202mm (only 0.020" on the right side)

It could also be the rear steer.... If all else fails, and you know that you have no radio problems, I'd take the rear steer out, see if that solves your problem

Steve, Have you tried offset t-plate and pod in stock?

Thanks guys
The diff is very smooth, and all new bearings in pod.
I have tried different tires, So I will check the other
items you said.
I did install a new digital servo(futaba9550) a while back???
Also should the car be faster with less tweak?

Thanks again

The car will be WAY faster with less tweak. I run 11 oz on the LR.

Do you run a receiver pack??? If not, you might consider it too.

Later, Bret

Bret, no racing today??????????

I raced 19 turn last night and couldn't bring myself to race the marithon of stock today.

On another note, I built both of my Customworks IDENTICAL, down to each nut and screw. One car cuts into the turn crazy, while the other is a bit lazy. I swapped tires back and forth, with no difference, no binding anywhere, they were built very well but still acted differently, any ideas why???

Later, Bret

Bret,

I would first check the nut behind the wheel.

Z

possible that one of the front arms could be slightly crooked from the other car? Just a thought.........

Could it be the valium you took between changing cars....lol

I raced 19 turn last night and couldn't bring myself to race the marithon of stock today.

On another note, I built both of my Customworks IDENTICAL, down to each nut and screw. One car cuts into the turn crazy, while the other is a bit lazy. I swapped tires back and forth, with no difference, no binding anywhere, they were built very well but still acted differently, any ideas why???

Later, Bret
I'm sure the cars are visually identical, but the difference could be something like one shock having more or less rebound than another a variation in springs even though they look the same. I suggest you tune each car individually. if you are determined to have both cars identical try swapping all 3 rear shocks, and then swapping front ends, so on and so forth until you find the variable(s). I hope this helps.

I raced 19 turn last night and couldn't bring myself to race the marithon of stock today.

On another note, I built both of my Customworks IDENTICAL, down to each nut and screw. One car cuts into the turn crazy, while the other is a bit lazy. I swapped tires back and forth, with no difference, no binding anywhere, they were built very well but still acted differently, any ideas why???

Later, Bret

Hi Bret,

Make sure you have the same amount of rearsteer in both cars ... 0 degree setting doesn't automatically set the rear steer to 0 ... check as per Eric's instructions a few pages back ... (left side gap) - (.336") - (right side gap)

Also, Jason is right, make sure you don't have one of these "friday pm" bottom AE a-arm on your car. I've seen front a-arms that were so distorted that they would greatly "twist" the chassis! Just put a straight edge underneath your chassis (front section) and make sure it is as flat as possible. I personally always sand the bottom of the a-arms to make sure they're completely flat.

Steve.
Team CW

have those setup sheets for the aggressor been completed yet,and if so have they been posted up? Thanks ,Dale email" runawaydo@yahoo.com"

Any advice for running on paved tracks...specifically a 350 ft (approx) asphalt oval that is slightly bumpy? Which t-plate would you start with (on-center or off-set, fiberglass or steel), what kind of slot)? Thanks in advance.

Hi Bret,

Make sure you have the same amount of rearsteer in both cars ... 0 degree setting doesn't automatically set the rear steer to 0 ... check as per Eric's instructions a few pages back ... (left side gap) - (.336") - (right side gap)

Also, Jason is right, make sure you don't have one of these "friday pm" bottom AE a-arm on your car. I've seen front a-arms that were so distorted that they would greatly "twist" the chassis! Just put a straight edge underneath your chassis (front section) and make sure it is as flat as possible. I personally always sand the bottom of the a-arms to make sure they're completely flat.

Steve.
Team CW

Steve, a few years back I noticed this problem and have "sanded" them flat ever since.
Rear steer is measured to be identical.

Maybe the shock rebound is the variable???
Then again, pain med's do have strange effects ;) .

I think swapping front ends is a nice way to eliminate a variable too.

Later, Bret

Double up on the meds and you won't even notice it, or care for that matter! :jest:

When going from regular pod length to the long pod length (keeping the same wheelbase), wouldn't you have to also move the servo back 3/8" when moving the front end back in order to keep the angle of the tie rods from being too extreme?

What's the best way to go about putting wing mounts on the rear pod when running in the long setup...use a 4-40 screw with the head cut off?

When going from regular pod length to the long pod length (keeping the same wheelbase), wouldn't you have to also move the servo back 3/8" when moving the front end back in order to keep the angle of the tie rods from being too extreme?

What's the best way to go about putting wing mounts on the rear pod when running in the long setup...use a 4-40 screw with the head cut off?Yes, you have to move the servo back as well. Just drill yourself another set of holes 3/8" back from the first set & you'll be good to go.

For the wing mounting, get you some long 4-40 set screws (like are used on pinions), thread them into the pod plates & the screw the wing mounts directly onto that. It might be a good idea to use some locktite on them too.

__________________
Brent Pearcy
Bulit Motorsports (http://www.bulitmotorsports.com/), TQCells (http://www3.sympatico.ca/tqcells/), BSR Racing Tires (http://www.bsr-racing.com/)

BrentP: Thanks. Both answers are what I thought would have to be done, just wanted to check and see what others were doing.

Paul you running CW now?

pepe, yep...just picked one up this week...hope to have it ready by the 2/12 race at Easley. As I mentioned on the other forum, I like several of the features on the Aggressor and I thought it would work well in Easley, so I decided to give it a shot.

Paul
I had thought about the CW car as well but after seeing one I was dumfounded at all the adjustments,I would be lost and with no body around here running one I would have no one to go to for help.I'm sure it is a good car,and maybe if you get yours figured out I may try one,it does seem like a good car for Carolina.I would be interested in seeing how the offset T-plate works there.

pepe: I liked the offset t-plate also. Another adjustment I like is the ability to move the motor and axle back 3/8" while not having to remount the body, etc. I think this will work well at Carolina. It can be confusing as to how everything adjusts, but after spending some time studying my chassis and Steve S's pictures I think I understand. We'll see how it runs in a couple weekends. :-)

Question for all the guys that are running rear steer. How much are you using for how big/small of a corner? Do you use a guideline for what is required/recomended? I have normally run cars straight up in the past but lately I have had had an issue with my car just being too planted and scrubbing speed in the middle of the corners on a flat carpet track and was thinking that this might be a way to help free the car up. Any help appreciated.

BF

Before trying the rear steer, I'd suggest trying stiffer side springs. If the car seems bound in the center, it may be rolling over too much. Rear steer could also help, but I'd try everythign else first, I use the rear steer as a last resort option myself.

I've been all the way up to a 14lb spring with much the same results. When I dropped the side shock angle the last time (Which to my understanding should have made the shocks more progressive and reduced roll) it also tightened the hell out of the car. I'm starting to get way out of the ballpark as to what most of the other guys at the track are doing at times (other car makes) so I was hoping to not have to go too extreme on a setup. Have gone up on the right rear tire hardness trying to free the car up with no noticable difference going up about 5 points on a durometer reading. All moving parts are free in both the front and rear ends of the car. Stock offset t-bar Jaco black or purple fronts white rears (occasionally a grey RR)
Is it possible I have a roll center issue? This is with a stock motor.

BF :confused:

I would try a softer LF tire (grey or white) if that doesnt work, try the Centered T-plate. i have dropped as much as .1/lap on a 3.4 avg laptime track by going from offset to centered Tplate. The car is much freer in the center and off w/ the centered Tplate

BF- There's alot of reasons that the ar could be "bound" in the center of the corner. it could possibly be loose on entry and then "catching" in the center, causing the issue. Post up your complete setup and maybe I can help. Or , if you feel it would be more beneficial, give me a call at home, it's alot quicker to go over stuff talking then typing (860) 872-4069

I'm usually home after 6 p.m. during the week.

Can a MIP tweak station be used to set the tweak on the aggressor? I don't have any scales or do most of you just eyeball it?

I have a set of scales that I just started using this season, but up until now, I never even looked at where it was, I always just put the pod level with the chassis and started there, never letting it get too far from that. Problem is that with side shocks, they are generally so stiff, that you can't look at the car and see what amount of left rear it has, and checking with a razor knife doesn't work either, because the stiffness prevents you from seeing the actual amount in the car. I'd reccommend a set of scales, or just go by the way the car feels, whihc is what I did for 15 years.