[QUOTE=... Pan car assembly 101 says Drill 3/8 hole in carriers...then using straight flute reamer to ream to 3/8...that allows the bearings to fit perfectly aligned... :thumbsup:[/QUOTE]


Sounds like a great way to get a sloppy hole for the bearing.... :confused:

Sounds like a great way to get a sloppy hole for the bearing.... :confused:

How so, if done properly it makes for no slop and a super free rolling axle

Not when the mold for the carrier bearing is slightly undersized... No slop in mine.. I guess eric and myself must just be exceptional machinists...LOL..

Not when the mold for the carrier bearing is slightly undersized... No slop in mine.. I guess eric and myself must just be exceptional machinists...LOL..

I guess.
I'm not one for sure.

It just seems that if you drill a hole 3/8" of an inch into something,
which was originally stated,
it will more than likely be very slightly oversized.
Then, if you ream it, it can never get smaller, only bigger..

But like I said, I don't claim to be a great machinist..
but a fair mechanic.

Drill is only used for associated ones..Because the back side is waaayy undersized...IRS ones I only use a reamer..

If it was a piece of metal..Id 100% agree with you.. but its a resin with a lot of elasticity..

the bearings still fit tight... Now FWIW I dont use a high speel mill when Im doing this.. I keep the speed LOW so that I do not heat up the plastic.. but On mine...the bearings fit perfect and dont move.. There used to be a site up explaining competitive pan car chassis building.. the drill/reamer was on page #1.. trinity used to sell the reamer to do it with... In the instructions it basically shows you that when you assemble the pan car rear the axle is RARELY Not in a bind...usually te bearings are bound in the plastic ad the carriers are not in perfect alignment.. If you take a new assembled pan rear and install JUST th graphite axle and turn the car n its side 99times out of 100 the axle will stay>>>With nothing holding it in... After this process it slides right out... NO SLOP, just perfect alignment without binding..

you can get the 3/8 reamer used to do this from mcmaster-carr , It does work though, if you do the process by hand, the plastic doesnt heat up and the bearings dont bind. I also "very lightly" with like 1000 grit sand paper sand the axle this helps get small binds out after you've done the other method.

you can get the 3/8 reamer used to do this from mcmaster-carr , It does work though, if you do the process by hand, the plastic doesnt heat up and the bearings dont bind. I also "very lightly" with like 1000 grit sand paper sand the axle this helps get small binds out after you've done the other method.

The problem is the reamer is not long enough to do both sides at the same time,the one trinity sold was.Now we just need to find out where trinity got those?

I bought mine from a machining house. Mine has 5" of 3/8 straight flute.. It was called a 6" straight flute reamer BUT the first inch is slightly undersized as a lead in for the reamer... If you call most tooling shops they can get them without a problem.. Before I found the one locally I had contacted yankee reamer and they said they could get them no problem..****IT DID NOT list them on yankee's website... Their website only lists short flute version.. I had to call them.. I just did not want someone to call BS because of what the website says...LOL..

Just a note to pass on, TJ Domark won both the B and A mains at the Novak Brushless race with an Aggressor, set-up sheet to come. Race had 94 entries in this class only. Very tight competition, he said the top 5 spots were less than .5sec apart.

Good run TJ!

guys check mcmaster carr for the reamer. they sell tools for machinist

With the new year it’s time to go through and do a little house cleaning. Those of you that have been around here know that at the beginning of each year we go through and suggest that older larger threads get closed and new ones get started.

This is done for a number of reasons. One is to keep the information at fresh and not overwhelming for new visitors. If they see a thread with 150+ pages they are much less likely to go through the thread to get information. This also makes sure the info in the thread is no more then a year old.

Also, long threads have a bad effect on server load and we like to try and keep that manageable.

What I would suggest is that a regular here start a new thread putting a link in it to this thread. Once the new thread is started I will then close this thread.

Thanks!

New thread located at http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=139919